Hello,
I’m looking to sell my 1994 285 Pro XL DC. 150hp fast strike. Seats were replaced in 21, lower unit was sealed & new water pump in ‘22 (Oem parts). Carbs rebuilt in ‘23 (Oem parts). Trailer...
Type: Posts; User: TiNuts
Hello,
I’m looking to sell my 1994 285 Pro XL DC. 150hp fast strike. Seats were replaced in 21, lower unit was sealed & new water pump in ‘22 (Oem parts). Carbs rebuilt in ‘23 (Oem parts). Trailer...
I also went from fortrex to ghost. Ghost pedal doesn’t have enough resistance for me. I also don’t like how it will kick out of spot lock if you look at it hard enough.
Hey Phoenix,
Does it show up on your Nmea network device list?
It depends on the features you actually want to use. I ended up purchasing a ghost. Spotlock is definitely the most used feature for me. I do occasionally use the routing feature, mostly to let the...
As a guy who was in the very same boat (no pun intended) a couple years ago, I will say it is very much worth it. If you really only want spot lock, you can get a spot locking motor for ~1500 (power...
I have a sonic hub 1 NIB.
I went with the Vevor kit & it wasn't much of a price difference. It probably is with a Seastar kit.
I’d say convert to hydraulic. On my 94 285 xl I could see the steering cable part numbers behind the switch panel on the side.
You should be able to start & stop the prop by tapping the prop button (hold to set anchor lock). It works for me.
...
I had same/similar problem in my 94 285 pro xl. Ended up the actual selector valve needed new o rings. You should be able to see which direction the valve in the bilge area is selected to. Match that...
You should be able to just disconnect it in the head. At least you could in my fortrex.
Mine does it too. I haven’t called as I don’t mind it much.
I don’t believe the active imagine transducer is compatible with the Ti units, just the Ti2s & FS.
The totalscan transducer should work for you.
That’s a single pole double throw (SPDT) switch being used as a single pole single throw (on/off). You can wire your 12v source to the blue common wire, & your load to the green normally open wire....
Then allow me to apologize for the misread.
Not sure what you mean by the test statement. But no test. You stated that my statement was “Another opinion” and marine wire was tinned for other reasons besides corrosion resistance. I simply asked...
THHN can be used for DC too & is commonly used for industrial DC applications.
I’m not saying to not use it, OP is free to use whatever wire he wishes. I’m saying thhn will work just fine. Of all the wiring I’ve modified on my 1994 boat, only one has has actually had copper...
Feel free to share those reasons! I’m just going off my 30 year old boat that doesn’t have tinned wire and no issues.
Yes, it will work. Tinned wire is pretty much a must in salt/brackish water. Not nearly as important in a freshwater environment.
I agree with testing at the motor. My boat was wired like that but there was a 12/24 switch on the motor.
I put one on my fortrex. It did reduce some vibration, but also added it’s own.
Fuse it on the red source side of the switch.
If the yellow wire is coming off a switch that is being fed 12v that is not fused somewhere upstream, then it needs to be fused somewhere between the battery & active target box. It should be as...
IMO, you should fuse the red & yellow wire. The yellow wire fuse will protect your mfd in the event the yellow wire finds a ground or the active target module shorts the turn on circuit.
That...