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I don't usually go after them until I see 1000 rpm in neutral.
your probably going to find that idle rpm eventually does climb to 1000 rpm.

850-1000 rpm is above spec but not unusual on that motor.
IAC is not working at that rpm because it's not needed.
problem is usually in the throttle body, be sure throttle plate is completely...

carb motors have to transition from idle ckts to main ckts.
depending on load that is usually in that 1500-2000 rpm range.
if the carbs are clean, being too lean on the idle ckts will make it...

total run time can not be erased.
run times and and other info can.

TH marine are cast aluminum wedges.
I've used their reverse wedges on small hp whaler repowers.
I use Bob's most of the time.

Do auto's run multi-strike ignition systems?

need to retest at a higher rpm.
retest at 3000 if it stays at 14.4 you win!

need to clarify sealing rings. Are you thinking the large metal rings between the crank and the block halves?
or the small rubber seals at the bottom of the crankshaft?

a yandina combiner is not the same as an isolator but accomplishes the same thing.

pay attention to your power steering reservoir level.
if it's dropping that's your leak.

I thought A2 had been replaced.
originally A1 for fuel lines that will stay full of fuel and can be run thru engine spaces.
A2 for fuel lines that flow fuel but are usually empty....

usually vent hose is 5/8" A1 type hose.

I do both! split the cowling so you can see what your doing.
lube the electric cables and push the male connectors thru the grommet one at a time.

Does it still have the original 2 winding (speed) stator?
or the newer "red" stator?
the original will quit @ around 1900 rpm if the hi speed windings quit. Will run perfect at lower rpm.

I think the 2.1L and 3.0L trim pump will come thru the brkt.

It's been a while since I've done one, but I think on the 150 you can fully contract the trim cyl and then it will swing out thru the brkt without disassembly.

drop the lower unit before you condemn the motor.

there is a svc bulletin a couple of years ago about this.
they specify a ser # range but I believe it went beyond the stated #'s
only happens if trim is run up to max stop.
repair was to replace...

New whalers have been using enertia props for a few years now. surprised to see a mirage.
also whaler is very conservative with their install height.
agree solid plugs are right for that boat.

low pressure electric pump can be tested without any disassembly. test port is on vst aft down low.

don't test alternator @ idle speed. bump it up to about 1200 rpm.
I would expect to see 13/14v @ 1200.
blown fuse 1200 I would expect to see very hi voltage 18/20v.
testing @ alternator output...

of course someone is going to say mine has 900hrs, mine is 20 yrs old,mine has been sunk 3 times and still works fine!
I'm just sharing my shop experience.

I have replaced quite a few with about 500hrs.
I wouldn't replace it because it has 500 hrs but I would be checking it periodically.

I purchased a Dyno about 30 yrs ago. expensive and not as good as using the boat ramp.
you can modify a prop to allow full rpm at a ramp.

usually letter L stamped into end of propshaft