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I have heard about the “Green Marine” fluid gumming up and causing issues.
- At what age does this breakdown occur?
- What is the best substitute, specifically?
- Is there a good procedure to make sure you got all of the old stuff out as mixing these fluids usually isn’t good on pumps?
Thanks!
you should always use green marine and change your fluid once a year to every other year its good preventative maintenance. Those people who are having gumming issues most likely haven't changed there fluid in years and years. You can take pumps off reserviors drain fluid inspect screens bolt back up and add new fluid.
My fluid was right at a year old and already looked terrible. Would definitely recommend every year..
I personally change mine every other year and it has never looked gummy.
Always so much good information on here. I really hadn't thought about changing the fluid. My poles are 2 yrs old so need to make a trip to bps for a quart of green marine
Just did mine, the previous owner bought the pole in 2015 I'd guess it wasn't changed since then. The consistency was that of thick pudding, pole wouldn't run, screens were completely gunked up. I bled the lines cleaned the reservoir and bam it works like new again. It's a very simple process honestly, I'll probably change it every other year now.
You can say i did my first fluid change today. I blew a line on the hydraulic cylinder. Line came right out of the fitting. I didnt have a spare ferrule and could not get the old one over the blue line. So as I wanted to go fishing I just took the entire arm off. Since I have to lower it to get it inside I felt it was easier to just take it off and not have to deal with trying to get it inside when I got back.
So I might as well just do a full fluid change after in order a few furrels, might pay to have a few spares.
Lubricated bushings, tightened all bolts and changed fluid. Was easy and didn't take much time to do.
This won't gum up and lasts for multiple years.
Lube King LU52322G AW ISO 32 Hydraulic Fluid
Do a internet search for it in a 2 gallon jug.
This is what was originally specified for the poles/pumps. 10wt/ISO 32 Hydraulic Fluid
https://imgur.com/0b5sMcS.jpg
Or you can get the "Green" fluid for $12.95 a quart. Made from oil seed (most likely Rape seed). Note: It says it's "biodegradable".
Oil seed fluids exhibit poorer oxidation resistance than mineral oils. Seed oil (natural esters) react with oxygen in a different way than mineral oils do. Instead of forming acids and then sludge, like mineral oils, natural esters will polymerize, or form a gel when they are at the end stage of their oxidation reaction. That goo you saw was the end of life for the Green fluid not moisture condensation.
From PP site:
I need more hydraulic fluid. Where can I purchase your hydraulic fluid?
We suggest you use Green Marine which is a non-toxic and biodegradable fluid. Green Marine can be purchased through any of our authorized dealers or here on our website As an alternative, any ISO32 hydraulic fluid or SAE10 oil can be used
Some varied descriptions on the internet say the Green fluid can be used in other marine hyd systems such as jack plates and steering. NOT!!!!
Bob's Jack plate takes 20W non detergent oil. You can get that at Tractor Supply. 2 gallons for less than $20.00. Or you can get a quart from Bob's for $10.00. :roll:
Just trying to save you guys some grief and a few bucks.
https://i.imgur.com/ZVjJ6Wa.jpg
From a conservation standpoint we recommend EVERYONE use Green Marine , however this can be used as pointed out by Mike. While we dont agree with it from a conservation standpoint, he is not wrong.
I'm providing my dino oil solution based on mechanical/fluid engineering principles. As Kevin indicated, I am not addressing any environmental concerns. I'm carrying 50 gallons of fuel and the 2 stroke guys also carry 2.5 gallons of oil. I opt for less maitence cycles.
Were you at my house last night??????? Had the very same issue, the up line blew out of the fitting, made a mess! Guess the old power pole was telling me I needed to change the fluid....LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Fx20 2011
Reviving this thread with additional questions. I mounted my pump in a hard to get to area and I don't want to remove just to change the oil. can I use an oil pump to siphon it out of the reservoir and then refill? Or, do I need to get the oil out of the lines as well and if so how?
we like to pull the reserviors off the pumps and check the screens , clean if necessary. If it appears you dont have the "gunk" and can look in and see screens look pretty clean you can just drain and refill with fresh green marine. With the poles down and lines disconnected you can manually push up the poles to force the majority of fluid from the lines, be sure they are in a container with a rag wrapped around top. Best to have a helper holding the bottle. If you dont want to drain the lines you will be ok.
Along those lines (pun intended), what about the fluid in the lines and the cylinder? Seems like it would be good to somehow flush or purge the system to get a more complete oil change done.
my comment above addresses how to purge the cylinder and lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bluemcm
EEK, I'm into season four and haven't changed. I am low so a good time to change fluid.
I'm an idiot, totally missed that yesterday. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by kandkkustomzhydrographics
I updated my post on the PP dino oil as a picture was missing and True Value now only carries it in 5 gallon pails. Most farm equipment supply stores should have it. I have a set of Gen1 PP's from 2009 and they have only been fed this is 10w ISO 32 oil. 10 years and three oil changes. My poles perform just like they did in 2009. Only service work done other than the oil changes was warranty replacement of worn spikes and reservoir caps replacement in 2017.
Had gum issues with one of my Sportsman Series pumps and took it out, drained and cleaned and refilled. Simple enough...it SEEMED. Now the pole will leak down after a few days and I cant get it to stop. I've removed the pump time and again, tightened what I thought could be loose and now the other pump is gummed up. I'm thinking of removing them altogether. These came on a "new to me" boat and I've had nothing but trouble.
Bobby which fluid are you using? How old are the pumps?
Using ISO 32 and had one pump replaced by Power Pole due to leakage. I think it has "Monster" something on it. I'm not well versed on these. They are older models I believe. I will look closer at them when I get home to be more informative. I'm fairly certain that these have not been maintained well by the previous owner, from the condition of the rest of the boat when I bought it. They worked fine for a few months when I purchased it last year tho.
PP will rebuild/swap out for rebuilt pumps. May be your best option.
Do anybody know of any YouTube videos to help you change this fluid the proper way never have done it before but thinking about doing it this year and want to do it correctly
So the fluid in the lines can stay or will it run out after you take the lines off the pumps? Thanks for all your help sir.
Johnny, PP can provide a detailed process for servicing your particular poles/pumps/reservoir. Just request the .pdf documents for your serial numbers.
IMO, if you have the plant based "green" fluid, that is one of the primary causes of PP failures. It's life span is very short as compared to the originally specified (and is still listed) ISO 32 fluid that PP's came with when they were first produced. You will not see clumps/PP snot in your system with the petroleum based oil. Getting all of that "green" fluid out of a system is a huge PIA, but it can be done. I have helped multiple guys remove this stuff and switch over to ISO 32. Here are a few need to know things when making the switch:
1. Get your pumps/lines to pump/power to pump all up out of the service well and on deck where you can address the reservoir easily. You will be running and refilling the reservoir multiple times to get all the PP snot out.
2. NEVER rub the mutiple pump filter screens with anything. The micron level on these screens is so small that contact just forces debris inside and you increase the chances of pump failure.
3. Have 3+ quarts of ISO 32 available. In order to completely flush the system you will need to dump the reservoir multiple times.
4. For systems that are more than 5 years old I suggest replacement of the reservoir caps. These are made by Parker Hannifin, a major hydraulics manufacturer. I get mine from a local hydraulics repair shop for a couple bucks each. These caps are your ventilation for the reservoir and if the filter inside the cap is plugged or the cap is cracked (over tightened causes this) then it affects system operation.
My 2009 poles and pumps have been in use for over 10 years now with three ISO 32 fluid changes taking place during that time. With the last change at 3 years I could see no particulates (I believe all system wear items are now stable). I will move my oil changes out to 4 years.
Thanks for all the info and help . I really do appreciate it.