Has anyone used this plate yet on our Strokers?[ATLAS] Does it have enough prejack built in it? What does it weigh? The 8" Detwiler weighs 68 lbs. Thanks Jerry Sloan
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Has anyone used this plate yet on our Strokers?[ATLAS] Does it have enough prejack built in it? What does it weigh? The 8" Detwiler weighs 68 lbs. Thanks Jerry Sloan
I'm also interested in the Atlas on a Stroker. Several high end saltwater boat manufactures are using them.
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...09/FLIB419.jpg
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...09/FLIB420.jpg
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/popcorn.gif
Are they horsepower rated, based on the pics it doesn't look very beefy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Strokerdean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they horsepower rated, based on the pics it doesn't look very beefy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Manufactures website says rated for v6 300hp max.
http://www.thmarine.com/productd526.html?PRID=213
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...09/FLIB418.jpg
I talked with them extensively when i installed a new plate on my boat earlier this year....Only reason i didnt go with them is warranty.....New product and not enough out there to see how they hold up and only a 1 year warranty...I wasnt risking it!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Nice looking unit but I don't want another HT Marine jack plate. Bit once was plenty. I would go with the new extreme from Bobs. Good for 350 hp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spider1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice looking unit but I don't want another HT Marine jack plate. Bit once was plenty. I would go with the new extreme from Bobs. Good for 350 hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.bobsmachine.com/Pro...s.cfm
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif
Question, most Strokers are running 14" of setback....where does the other 2 inches come from? Spacer?
http://i853.photobucket.com/albums/a...mpsonbrain.jpg
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Right now I have two 6" jack plates bolted together. May be changing that set up and going to a 10" bobs with 4" extensions from HT
It comes from an 8" Detwiler Hydraulic Jackplate. and a 6" Manual Jackplate. This is the setup that HydroTec uses and has worked very well on all of the Strokers they have setup.
If i was going to do it again, i would do exactly what Spider is considering....I will now add 2" spacers but it would have been nice to have my setback height adjustable!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/ohwell.gif .....If would have known i would be this close to a 100 with just 12" setback i would have went with 14 from the begining. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NixaMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It comes from an 8" Detwiler Hydraulic Jackplate. and a 6" Manual Jackplate. This is the setup that HydroTec uses and has worked very well on all of the Strokers they have setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is the advantage to having all those bolts/hardware holding things together vs a single unit that can give 14"?
You have seen that same set up Captain, Blackie has it, as does Nightmare..................... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
The Hydro Tec combo set up has negative tuck built in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blair »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have seen that same set up Captain, Blackie has it, as does Nightmare..................... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been studying this photo:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...onspics115.jpg
Two more questions:
a. Negative tuck, explanation needed...
b. Certain degree your looking for?
If you look at the HydroTech silver plate, there is a difference in length (front to rear) from top to bottom. the top is wider (longer) than the bottom creating two surfaces that are not parallell which equals negative tuck (additional negative trim). This additional neg trim helps the hole shot. The use of 2 plates instead of one plate and standard spacers gives you the ability to raise the engine to the heigth most strokers run when stretching them out. I use one Detwiler plate and spacers that give me the length and heigth needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Strokerdean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look at the HydroTech silver plate, there is a difference in length (front to rear) from top to bottom. the top is wider (longer) than the bottom creating two surfaces that are not parallell which equals negative tuck (additional negative trim). This additional neg trim helps the hole shot. The use of 2 plates instead of one plate and standard spacers gives you the ability to raise the engine to the heigth most strokers run when stretching them out. I use one Detwiler plate and spacers that give me the length and heigth needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is the 2-4 degrees of negative trim worth the extra holeshot? Just guessing at the degrees but Blair might have broken out the slide ruler on this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ludicrous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is the 2-4 degrees of negative trim worth the extra holeshot
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its helps but isnt a MUST HAVE!!!!....I would recommend it though!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Thanks, Dean for the great explanation.
I believe my set ups are approximately 4-5 degrees, and yes, it improves the hole shot. Plus, you have the ability to raise the motor nearly 4" above the pad which, in our application, gives you the best top end opportunity.
My best top end numbers are usually around 2.75" - 3.25" above the pad.
We are running setback plates from Hydrodynamics that have negative tuck and pre jack built in http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/glasses.gif . I am gonna have three inches of pre jack built into my next one.
Since Strokers don't require alot of positive trim you can get by with about 3 degrees of negative tuck which does help holeshot and it also helps the porpoise issue at slow speeds. I would not go more than 3 degrees. If you use a fixed static plate you will need 3 1/2- 4" of prejack which can be obtained. Go with 14"-15" for top end and 12" for a fishing rig set-up...Any questions you can email me gbs52 @yahoo.com or call 606-340-7817 Jerry's Pro Marine / Thanks Jerry
Hey Mike Lohn where are you? We need you in a Stroker!!!!!!
Jerry, You know I would if I could, But I can't so I wont. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/roll.gif
Just pokin fun Mike. Tell me about the new prop Mark has been working on.[Changing the rake on a Bravo]?
Call me... I know you still have my number. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Jerry
it is hard to find enough vertical rise with the detwiler we are adding 4" of vertical rise to the plates with the added setback
I personaly have not found many plates that would lift the engine at wot with the added setback and keeping the plates ridigid and not floping back and forth is a big prob.
I would recomend going with the detwiler even if it cost alittle more and pinchin pennys some where else
Kurt
just my 2 cents
Hey Kurt, Thanks for your input and everyones. I had not seen an Atlas and was curious as if there were an alternative out there to Detwiler. I know we shouldn't prejudge but when you look on the pump of a Detwiler and see China on the pump it makes you wonder.....Jerry
Modified by gbs52 at 6:30 PM 11/28/2009
I had one from my 97 for 10 years....rebuilt it once....powercoated once.....replaced the bolts once.....replaced a few exata dials then threw them away and went with the blinker trim...I have no complaints....
Keep me posted Jerry if you find a good replacement
give me a call if you get a chance monday or so we need to catch up
Kurt
501-281-8001
I am going out on a limb trying the Gorilla 2 from stainless marine. We will see how it works. Tac
A few weeks ago I discussed jackplates with Don Weed at European Marine. He had positive things to say about the Atlas. Check with him for another informed opinion.
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I really like the atlas on the phoenix 721 We have had absolutely no issues with them so far
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Strokerdean »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are they horsepower rated, based on the pics it doesn't look very beefy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Atlas is built to accept the L-6 Verado.... which weighs WAY MORE than the Optis & EFI's you guys are running!
I'd suggest getting your hands on one.... I'm a bit hard to impress- but this one gets http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif from me!
Additionally, you can get it in 4", 6", 8", 10", 12" (and I've even used a 12" + 2" spacers on a Bullet). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
The first picture is what I have now. The 2nd picture is what I put on when i first got the boat. At that time i had to use every bit of my hydraulic plate to run on top. I called RJ and had them to build me a custom with a 3" rise. He also said I had the static plate and the hydraulic plate backwards. he said they are more sturdy when used in the arrangement of the 1st pic. The static plate "should" bolt to the boat and then attach the hydraulic.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1262982993
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1262983309
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GE Blazer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The static plate "should" bolt to the boat and then attach the hydraulic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
(edited after a closer look at the first picture)
That would NORMALLY be a much better arrangement for your setup... but I've changed my mind in your case. Look a the first picture, and note how much of your Detweiler plate is hanging down below the "static" plate. This is very likely to drag and "fight" your performance goals during holeshot, and when dropping off plane! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
I don't understand why it is better to have the static plate first, unless the foot print is bigger on the static plate where ya bolt it to the transom then the hydrolic... Both my plates have the same contact area so I don't see a difference..
I hear thats it's harder on the trim mechinism/plate when the motor is out away from the hyd plate. Not it's intended design.. Leverage/fulcrum points
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Largemouthlou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't understand why it is better to have the static plate first, unless the foot print is bigger on the static plate where ya bolt it to the transom then the hydrolic... Both my plates have the same contact area so I don't see a difference..</TD></TR></TABLE>
It can provide added stress on the hydraulic plate... and normally, we like to see the "strongest, largest footprint" against the transom, wherever possible.
However.... I took another closer look at his pictures... and I've changed my thoughts on this setup. He may be better to leave it as it is now, simply due to the fact that he doesn't want his Detweiler plate hanging down in the flow of water on holeshot... (see the first picture and note how far down the Detweiler plate hangs down). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tacsavage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going out on a limb trying the Gorilla 2 from stainless marine. We will see how it works. Tac</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Gorilla plates from Stainless marine are the beefiest i've seen. Followed closely by Detwiler. The Detwiler i have on my bullet was a great hyd plate and never had a problem when adjusting even at high speed.
I've seen the Atlas get in a bind when running less than 75mph http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eek.gif. Hit the blinker trim that goes to the plate and it wouldn't move. I haven't been impressed with them as of lately.
The 1st pic is while the boat is under the shed with the plate all the way down. I run it even on holeshot at least 3 inches higher (2nd pic). All of it is out of the water when running anyway (3rd pic). Does not affect performance.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1263843960
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1263844004
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1263844042
Thats how Hydro Dynamiocs instructions are, put the static plate next to the transum with the Detwiller next to the engine. My plate does hang down and drag during hole shot but it is out of the water while running. I may modify my planner/splash plate to help divert the water from the Detwiller, its just more work and material.
Greg:
I'm much happier with that last picture..... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif