V8-Torquemaster with only 3 inlets on each side

For those of you who have attempted to run the new V8 Fourstroke ProXS models with a Torquemaster Gearcase (specifically the version with 3 water inlets on each side), you likely have found that the traditional pin-style muffs do not work as there is no opening through which to place the pin.

While a dual-feed (aftermarket) earmuff may work, that requires a significant water supply (some hose bibs and plumbing systems may not support adequate volume, causing the engine to overheat).

The below pictures show a simple solution, you can find a 50ga tub at most any Home Depot or Lowe's (the one pictured came from Lowe's). You cannot shift the engine with a prop on it, but you can run it (at idle) for a reasonable period of time, especially if you keep the hose replenishing the tub's water level.

There are likely a thousand other suitable containers- We have two test tanks, but this is something you can grab and fill, then siphon the water out and put away when you're done.


http://www.bbcboards.net/attachment....1&d=1578602180

Attachment 389541Attachment 389542

Thanks for posting this Don confirms what i figured i needed to get. Tried my old flusher that just clamps over and you could tell it wasnt getting enough water so i stopped running it.

Thanks Don for the tip:thumb up2:

Have a flush hose on side 2020 2b776205 225hp proxs mercury can I run the motor

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Originally Posted by biglakespecks

Have a flush hose on side 2020 2b776205 225hp proxs mercury can I run the motor

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NO. The Coastal Flush Attachment is not for running the engine.

Don,

I tried this and I have no PSI on Smartcraft Gauge and no water coming out of the tell-tail; yet when the engine is idling at the boat ramp I read 2- 5 PSI on Smartcraft Gauge. Any idea why the tub of water did not work?

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Originally Posted by Maine-Basser

Don,

I tried this and I have no PSI on Smartcraft Gauge and no water coming out of the tell-tail; yet when the engine is idling at the boat ramp I read 2- 5 PSI on Smartcraft Gauge. Any idea why the tub of water did not work?

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Not deep enough.

Well, I had my engine submerged deeper than the engine in the picture, so....must be another reason. I'll try again and see what happens.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuropeanAM

NO. The Coastal Flush Attachment is not for running the engine.

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thats what my dealer used ��

I also did not have any pressure on the mercmonitor with this method. I had mine about 1 inch deeper than shown in the picture.

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Originally Posted by Bartman

I also did not have any pressure on the mercmonitor with this method. I had mine about 1 inch deeper than shown in the picture.

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If you do not see water pressure (1-3 psi at idle) within 30-40 seconds, I would be replacing the Water Pump Impeller and gaskets.

:ohwell:

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Originally Posted by Rick H

100 gallon by rubber maid live stock tank works well.

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:thumb up2: Next time you have yours set up, see if you can snap a picture and post it.

:ohwell:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rick H

Screen shot from this last spring. I always send it to my son to let him know its fishing time.
Stock tank is 75 or 100 gallon rubber maid I don't remember for sure I've had it a while now. Has a plug in the bottom on the side to drain the water when finished. I got it at tractor supply. Well worth every penny to me. The I used a homemade splash guard on it to capture the pee water and you can engage the prop but on the 250 with a worked 26 prop it still throws the water out pretty good. But using it to diagnose the rude 9.9 kicker that would die 30 to 45 mins. on cold start under power the tank works pretty well under power with the guard in place

Attachment 439023

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I should point out that the pictured engine is not a V6/V8 Fourstroke model, and it's gearcase dimensions are quite different.

I suspect that this particular tank would work wonderfully for the Fourstroke models, however (due to it's length, which is often the challenge).

:ohwell:

The challenge Don is referring to is finding a tank long enough for the 4-stroke gearcase. He indicates the stock tank you're using for your 2-stroke will probably work wonderfully for the V6/V8 4-stroke (plenty long enough) - that's a good thing. :thumb up2:

I like the repurposed chair runner tattletale deflector - ingenious!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuropeanAM

If you do not see water pressure (1-3 psi at idle) within 30-40 seconds, I would be replacing the Water Pump Impeller and gaskets.

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I just got done replacing it. That's why I tried this method. Our lakes have finally thawed and got to test it today.. Running 2-3 psi at idle on smartcraft. Engine temp will get to 140 and drop to 125 and repeat. This is with the jackplate all the way up. On my motor, the lower unit has to be submerged at least to the oil drain valve.

I run my 3 hole like this with no overheat issues. It fully cycles thru the thermostat opening process.
https://i.imgur.com/ODN6iBt.jpg

That works, Mike. However... takes a really good supply of water (5/8" ID or better with decent pressure) on the 3-hole gearcase. Otherwise, engine tends to overheat within 3 minutes. I've even seen that happen with a dual-feed flush adapter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mikesxpress

I run my 3 hole like this with no overheat issues. It fully cycles thru the thermostat opening process.
https://i.imgur.com/ODN6iBt.jpg

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In the picture above, what the small hole in the front of the gearcase just above the tape, right in the front?

Paint chip

Pitot pickup opening perhaps?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuropeanAM

For those of you who have attempted to run the new V8 Fourstroke ProXS models with a Torquemaster Gearcase (specifically the version with 3 water inlets on each side), you likely have found that the traditional pin-style muffs do not work as there is no opening through which to place the pin.

While a dual-feed (aftermarket) earmuff may work, that requires a significant water supply (some hose bibs and plumbing systems may not support adequate volume, causing the engine to overheat).

The below pictures show a simple solution, you can find a 50ga tub at most any Home Depot or Lowe's (the one pictured came from Lowe's). You cannot shift the engine with a prop on it, but you can run it (at idle) for a reasonable period of time, especially if you keep the hose replenishing the tub's water level.

There are likely a thousand other suitable containers- We have two test tanks, but this is something you can grab and fill, then siphon the water out and put away when you're done.


http://www.bbcboards.net/attachment....1&d=1578602180

Attachment 389541Attachment 389542

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To make it easier on yourself, I recommend installing a 1 1/2" drain pipe with a threaded plug. Sure would make emptying the tub easier. If you wanted to get real fancy, install a ball valve to control the flow.

My 100 gallon rubbermaid tank has a drain but wasn't big enough. NOT!!!! :doh:

30.5" L x 15" W x 17" H Craftsman 50 gallon


53" L X 31" W X 25" H Rubbermaid 100 gallon
With drain

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rick H

My 100 gallon rubbermaid tank has a drain but wasn't big enough. NOT!!!! :doh:

53" L X 31" W X 25" H Rubbermaid 100 gallon
With drain

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Thanks for sharing- that sounds like a great option!