Skeeter Trailer Issue - How do I disable the reverse braking lock?

I have a 2003 dual axle Skeeter trailer (no swing away tongue) for my ZX225. It has the brake acuator that is supposed to disable when the vehicle is put into reverse. The problem is sometimes the tow vehicle I use doesn't have the extra pin this actuator uses on the pigtail wire connector (I have the adapter plug installed on my vehicle) so the tires lockup and I can't back the trailer up at all. I've heard reversing the pigtail connector can disable this, but I've had mixed results with it. Is there a way I can just permanantly disable this brake function on my trailer? I don't trailer my boat other than the monthly gas fillups so it's more of a pain in the a$$ than anything else, especially when using someone elses tow vehicle that doesn't have the proper wiring hookups. I think I hit my boiling point with this while trying to back my boat into the yard during a rainstorm this weekend...the trailer tires kept locking up and I made some huge ruts in the yard.

any help is welcomed, thanks

I would suggest just going and getting the correct plug installed on your truck. If you do it yourself, which is not difficult at all, you would only have to spend about $15.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by bferrell &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I would suggest just going and getting the correct plug installed on your truck. If you do it yourself, which is not difficult at all, you would only have to spend about $15.</td></tr></table>

I do have the correct plug installed on my truck, I'm talking about using other vehicles than my own. With the way the trailer is setup now, there's now way to back it up withouth the trailer wheels locking...There must be a simple way to disable this braking feature of the trailer?

I know on mine i have a silver lockout which i twist to stop the brakes engaging which is right on top of the tongue.

It looks like this -

http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/..._thumbnail.jpg

If you are towing with a vehicle that doesn't have the 5 flat and has the 4-flat, just plug it in reversed/backwards and turn on the head lights in the truck. This will engage the reverse lights and keep the brakes from engaging.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by wildkat7 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">If you are towing with a vehicle that doesn't have the 5 flat and has the 4-flat, just plug it in reversed/backwards and turn on the head lights in the truck. This will engage the reverse lights and keep the brakes from engaging.</td></tr></table>
Yep, this works sometimes, but this weekend I was using my brother-in-laws Toyota Tundra and the trucks 4 pin pigtail is recessed in a plastic mount and you can't switch the plug around. It's situations like this when I want to just be able to disable the braking all together.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by SkeeterJohn &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I know on mine i have a silver lockout which i twist to stop the brakes engaging which is right on top of the tongue.

It looks like this -

http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/..._thumbnail.jpg

</td></tr></table>
Gah, I don't have that on mine...

Maybe you just have a cover on the top instead of the cap?

Perhaps this schematic helps assuming it's the same type a UFP:

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.c...070-D

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by SkeeterJohn &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Maybe you just have a cover on the top instead of the cap?

Perhaps this schematic helps assuming it's the same type a UFP:

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.c...070-D

</td></tr></table>

hmmm, good info, I'll take a look this weekend...thanks!

Make a small jumper between lights and fifth plug. When you turn on the lights it will disable the brakes. Done this with a paperclip but prefer to use bullet connector on one end and bare wire on the other.

worse comes to worse, if you dont have the lock out key that came with the trailer. Tape a 1/2" socket in the slide rail on the side of the tounge. It keeps the pin from sliding forward far enough to compress the piston.

I have used it in a pinch.

Like Doug said, a jumper wire with bullet connectors. When I bought my first bass boat my dealer rigged a 5th wire on my truck so I didnt need a new plug. Make a short wire with a male connector on one end and a female on the other end. When you are readt to back up attach the male to a hot lead on the vehicle connector and the female to the 5th pin on your trailer plug.

In a pinch I have taped a couple of nickles (flat) into the slots on either side of the tongue. Keeps the actuator from sliding back. I had to do this after blowing a fuse on the back up lights.

Don't know of a permanent fix. Draining the brake fluid is a no go. Mine ran out of fluid a month ago and the trailer has a lot of play in it back and forth with out the fluid.

if all else fails, just throw it in reverse n floor it. a bit of tire squeal doesn't hurt.

ok had the issue AGAIN this weekend, but this time with my tow vehicle (Which has the proper pigtail connector) I found the plastic cover cap mentioned earlier in this thread, It had a small brake fluid cap under mine, I'm wondering if I need to add more fluid in there? maybe there's not enough fluid to unlock the brakes when reverse kicks in? I didn't have time to play around with it, had to get my boat in storage before the place closed (I powered it in reverse and dug a big rut due to one of the trailer wheels being locked in reverse)

I can post pictures if needed, I don't trailer enough to truly pay enough attention to my trailer maintenance (I know I should) Do you have to frequently add fluid to this trailer actuator?

This is a 2003 Skeeter dual axle trailer (it does NOT have the swing away tongue)

Just disconnect the brake line from the back of the solenoid if you don't want brakes.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by skeetzx225 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">ok had the issue AGAIN this weekend, but this time with my tow vehicle (Which has the proper pigtail connector) I found the plastic cover cap mentioned earlier in this thread, It had a small brake fluid cap under mine, I'm wondering if I need to add more fluid in there? maybe there's not enough fluid to unlock the brakes when reverse kicks in? I didn't have time to play around with it, had to get my boat in storage before the place closed (I powered it in reverse and dug a big rut due to one of the trailer wheels being locked in reverse)

I can post pictures if needed, I don't trailer enough to truly pay enough attention to my trailer maintenance (I know I should) Do you have to frequently add fluid to this trailer actuator?

This is a 2003 Skeeter dual axle trailer (it does NOT have the swing away tongue)</td></tr></table>

First I would test the plug on the trailer as well as the plug on the truck. Track down your issue there. Then I would build a jumper like others have said. I have one that I keep in the boat for any time when I may pull with a truck that doesn't have the correct plug. Making the jumper shouldn't take more than 5 mins.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by pbmang &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

First I would test the plug on the trailer as well as the plug on the truck. Track down your issue there. Then I would build a jumper like others have said. I have one that I keep in the boat for any time when I may pull with a truck that doesn't have the correct plug. Making the jumper shouldn't take more than 5 mins.</td></tr></table>It's not electrical, I'm 99% sure of that....I'm thinking it has something to do with the fuid resevior in the tongue of the trailer, i'm betting it's low and that's why the rear wheels don't unlock all the way....another hint is that this always seems to happen on level ground, when unloading the boat on the ramp decline, it seems to back up fine...maybe that's because the level of fuid moves to the back and releases the breaks..

I didn't read anything other than your last post so forgive me if this is a repost.

Here is a simple test. Next time it happens, unplug the connector between the trailer and the truck. Turn it so that it makes a plus (+) sign. Plug the brown wire from the truck into the blue wire from the trailer. Turn on your headlights and see if you can back up.

If you can, then your truck has a fuse blown for the trailer reverse lights. Most newer trucks have a separate fuse for the truck and one for the trailer. You may see back-up lights on the truck and still have a blown reverse trailer fuse.

Here's some images I took this weekend, they show the trailer tongue, underneath the cap and my wiring harness

Wiring Harness - http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3536/trailerwiring.jpg

Trailer Tongue - http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/7...ilertongue.jpg

Under the cap - http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/4...ilercapoff.jpg