How to BLEED the ENGINE MOUNTED OIL TANK when AIR IS PRESENT

-Ensure that the BOAT tank has adequate oil in it (1/3 or higher level).

-Verify all caps on the BOAT tank are TIGHT, and o-rings are in place under the caps.

-Remove engine cowling, and set engine trim to "level-trim".

-If you've OPENED any part of the oil system, or suspect air may be trapped in the lines, utilize a Turkey Baster or Syringe to "suck" some oil out of the ENGINE mounted tank (usually want the level down about 3/4" to 1" FROM THE TOP OF TANK for best results).

-With water supplied (via earmuffs & low water blockoff, or boat in the water), start engine and allow it to idle.

-Loosen the cap on the ENGINE MOUNTED oil tank (approximately 1-1/2 turns). Allow the engine to continue idling, and watch carefully for the oil level to rise. This is a "pressure fed" system, so oil is being "pushed in" as air is being "released" through the cap. This may take only seconds, or as long as a couple minutes.

-As soon as oil begins to "spew" from the cap, snug it down (don't overtighten- it will break/crack).

-Wipe up all spillage.

IF you have repeat occurances of this problem, you will need to have the system checked for air leaks, faulty check valves, etc. (Same would be the case if the system does not bleed as above described). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Is it normal to have to keep your BOAT tank at least half full? Seems that every time mine gets below half I end up with a small amount of air in the MOTOR tank and get my buzzer. I've had to bleed it 3 times now! It's really not an issue keeping it at half or more just curious if this is normal...

Also, how much air does it take in the MOTOR tank before the buzzer will sound?

I just took the cowling off, took the cap off the tank, and filled the tank with oil.

Is this wrong?

By pumping the oil in until it spews out ensures that ALL air is out of the reservoir... When poring the oil in you will be more likely to leave a small air bubble/pocket.

I had some problems with my pro xs and while looking for the issue with the engine off I took the cap off the engine mounted tank to check the oil level. Now I am worried that I may have put an air bubble into the system... Did I??? I haven't ran the engine since and plan on taking it to the shop. Do I need to tell them about what I've done?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kent7351 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do I need to tell them about what I've done?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, well I wouldn't think so... Air has been in mine a few times before and all I do is pump it back full how Don explained above.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Frayed Knot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By pumping the oil in until it spews out ensures that ALL air is out of the reservoir... When poring the oil in you will be more likely to leave a small air bubble/pocket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif

It IS INDEED a good idea to maintain the level in the boat tank at 1/3 or higher capacity. When the level becomes lower, there is always the "potential" that air might be introduced into the oil tank pickup (especially in rough operating conditions). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

I just tried this and I am not sure if it is working right, I see little bubbles in the tank when I loosen the cap but after having it idle for about a minute it doesn't overflow. Should I let it run longer? How long is to long? What could the problem be?

Bleeding air can take anywhere from a few seconds to several minutes. IF it is apparent after 3 minutes at idle that the level in the engine mounted tank is NOT rising, you may have:

-Loose caps or leaking seals at the BOAT oil tank
-Restricted pickup screen in the BOAT oil tank
-Leaks at connections or fittings on the lines (especially the pressure side)
-Failed Crankcase Pressure Checkvalve (Starboard side, front-lower of block)
-Broken reed or compression problem on the BOTTOM CYLINDER.

Hi I have a question regarding info you provided in one of your posts
If I hook up the water supply to the earmuffs what do you mean with low water block off when water was turned on I noticed water coming out the front of the lower unit 08 250 proxs

Part# 881150K1 is a " bra-style" low water pickup cover. It has a rubber-cup that covers the low water pickup, allowing for the standard pin-type flush attachments to provide adequate water supply for "low RPM" operation.

I have seen "duct tape" used to cover the low water pickups as well (through I much prefer the above tool). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

We keep these in stock, should you need one. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif

I drained the orriginal oil out of the tank on the boat and refilled with new oil (New boat to me and not sure of quality). How long should the bleeding process take from "fresh" lines?
I let it run for a few minutes with nothing at all. I checked the air feed at the out side tank and there is air being pumped through from the cylender and I also checked the screen in the tank for any obstructions, but it is perfectly clean. I pulled the feed tube from the tank to see if any oil would pump directly from the tank to rule out the lines, but nothing..
Does the airpreasure need to build up in the tank?
How stgrong should the air be comming from the engine?
All rings on the tank look brand new and I have cleaned of the rims.
Any ideas??

thANKS IN ADVANCE!!!! Sean

Sean:

It can take anywhere from 5 seconds to 3-4 minutes for the air to bleed.

However.... please VERIFY that on your REMOTE (boat) oil tank, you have the hose with the BLUE STRIPE connected to the CENTER nipple (the one corresponding to the pickup screen)... and that this hose is feeding the OIL TANK on the engine.

The solid BLACK hose is your pressure hose.

If the hoses are inadvertantly reversed... it will NEVER bleed. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Yes, Blue strip is connecting to the reserve tank on the engine and the other line is connecting to the cyclender..
How much air preasure should I be getting from the cylender?

In theory, if I remove the line with the blue strip from the tank, and start the engine should oil be spewing out of the intake or does that eliminate the preasure?

Thanks!!!

You indicated which hose was connected where "at the engine".... how about which hose is where on the Remote (boat) oil tank???

Pressure will vary on the oil tank, but should usually be somewhere in the 2-8 psi range with the engine running at idle.

Disconnecting the hose with the blue stripe (with the engine at idle) would result in oil running from the REMOTE (boat) tank side of the connection.

Ok, air preasure seems about right and the lines should be connected correctly as I did not remove them http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...2006/001-6.jpg
(Please pardon my bilge, everything is disconnected and dirty at the moment http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif )
I know the air is atleast making it to the top of the tank... I guess I need to make sure the air is getting past the cap and into the "guts" inside the tank.. Maybe pulling the cap off that is attached to the hose why the engine is idling? I assume if air is getting past the cap that I should see/feel some preasure or gurgling at the base?
If not I can assume the mechanics inside the tank are either clogged or shot..
Sorry for rambling just trying to bounce things off of you as I was not able to work on the engine today..
Thanks!!
Sean

Check two things at the tank:

1. Verify that both caps have a clean, intact o-ring, and that caps are TIGHT. Unless you spilled oil all over the one on the right in your picture.... you may have a crack in that cap.

2. Verify that the pickup screen (attached to the underside of the cap) is not plugged. Debris in or on the pickup screen will impede the flow of oil to the engine.

Both caps are clean and the O-rings looks new. Pick up screen also looks new.
I tried plugging the air preasure line into the oil fill outlet to see if maybe there was a clog that I could "preasure out or move. Let it run for 30 or so seconds that way then removed the air line.. A good amount of oil the seeped out the air line, is that normal or evedence of a clog?
I pulled both lines out and of the boat and let them drain to make sure there was no more oil in the air line.
Reconnected just the air line to see if oil would perge from the on board tank.. Nothing..
I assume that there must be either a small leak in the tank, or the pick up?
Can I just purchase the pick-up in the tank or do I/Should I purchase a whole new tank?
Can I take apart the pick up to clean?
Any advice will be highly apreciated!!!!


THANKS!!!

Before you go that route.... let's reconnect everything PROPERLY "except for the pressure line where it connects to the block pressure check valve".

Locate a pressure tester (such as a gearcase pressure tester), and install it into the pressure hose (clamp with a tie-wrap).

Pressurize the system to 6-9 psi with the pressure tester. Now open the cap on the engine mounted tank, and see if it bleeds the air out (no need to run the engine in this case).

IF IT DOES..... you likely have a bad pressure check valve, or perhaps a bad reed, or a compression problem. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

OK, I will need to get my hands on a tester..
Couple quick question, If I block the air feed line with my finger, should the preasure increase? If I plug the line it does not seem to build against it, and that is begining to worry me http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/ohwell.gif
Also, should the air/preasure comming from the line be steady, or pulseing (for lack of a better word) ? there is a steady flow of air but it seems to be pulsing..I took of the check vavle from the powerhead and it seemed a bit dirty, I soked it in WD40 for about 1/2 hour and then noticed that, what I think is the check ball, floating around but not really consistently falling into place when I blew/sucked air in and out of the valve.
Could it be something simple as the check valve on the power head? If so what would be the part# for the check valve my 2003 225 EFI?
I blasted about 20psi of air into the tank via compressor and oil came right out of the port, si I assume the tank is sealed and functioning.
Sorry for all the questions, just dont have immidiate access to a tester so trying to work around it until I get my hands on one...

THANKS!
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Modified by SeanR at 1:51 PM 6/14/2010


Modified by SeanR at 4:48 PM 6/14/2010