new carpet , deck extension, and transom replacement

A few things I've been workin on...
Replaced a section of floor where my feet would go. Cut out beyond affected area, replaced portion of one stringer, glassed it in, replaced floatation foam, and marine ply. I still need to put down fiberglass over entire area.
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292192969

Reworked bottom of front livewell, same as rear livewell. I also modified it because of my recessed foot control tray. The livewell stepped up and extended forward real far. With my livewell full, my Comfortroll would have water standing in the bottom of it. I glassed in marine ply to cut it off. I have yet to finish it with epoxy.
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292193498

This shot shows the livewell before I blocked it off
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292194149

Here it is with permanent partition glassed in
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292194263

I'm also putting in new seat bases, same as new Rangers use. Had the thick, black, round plastic bases before that sat on top of carpet. I am recessing these to sit flush with deck. I removed a little more material so I could put down a decent layer of glass under it, for strength and waterproofing.
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292194701
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292194756
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292194815

Made the cut out for my Comfortroll. Went into the front livewell. Blocked that off but had a delima on how to drain it. I ran PVC pipe thru what I believe is called the hull stiffener(6" to 8" piece that spans the V in the bottom of hull). Pipe runs along bottom of hull to an elbow and comes up thru stiffener. The hose from my Comfortroll will fit in pipe and drain to bilge. I reglassed stiffener when I was done
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292195366

http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292195474

Been workin on the front deck as well. I discussed the problem with the front deck earlier in the thread. I ground alot of glass, and some foam. Replaced the wood and am in the process of making it all level. The shot is taken with me standing on bow. The port side is glassed in marine ply, the starboard side is same but with fairing mix applied, but not sanded yet. Fairing mix is epoxy resin with milled fibers(strength), phenolic micro balloons(sandability), and wood flour(thickiner). When I get it the way I want it ,I will prolly put one layer of 6oz cloth over the whole deck for strength and crack resistance.
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292197484

From what I know, If you need to fill areas, more than just a scratch, you should really use a fiber reinforced product to prevent it from cracking. I would not use bondo for filling areas on a boat. My 2c's

Been doing a lot of sanding as well. I'm having to sand thru non skid, and tan gelcoat to get to the original rootbeer gel.

Oh yeah, repaired and thickened the glass inside hull where the Bow Eye attaches.
http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/c...g?t=1292196856

Not settin any speed records but I havent burned out either. Still lookin forward to "The Day"
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

awesome restoration-I have a few epoxy,fiberglass questions....when you all talk of epoxy resin as an adhesive for say carpet,is that resin alone? Is it cheaper than typical marine adhesives? Can/should it be used to adhere carpet to my compartment lids/Floor of my bass boat?Seems like it would double as a waterproofer...?? Also,i replaced two soft spots about 2 ft in diameter each.When i"glass"(as you guys say) the floor spots in,I use hardener right?Along with cloth? Is that what "glassin in"something IS ?? Using hardener w the resin for the bond,cohesion,etc?? And what is the wood flour thing? Is that a form of hardener?? how/why is it used? and where bought?? Also-a great fix for small cosmetic issues paintwise for the metallic type bass boat paint jobs is fingernail polish.Go to the mall to one of those flashy glitzy teeny bopper stores and you can probably find a real close if not almost perfect match in fingernail polish to your glittery bass boat paint job.My boat is metallic/glitter black-found great match.---Ive also found that a great carpet template is the weed block you buy off the roll at home depot.Its heavy enuf to lay still to get your reads/measurments but light enuf to easily cut and its super cheap.It was 1.27 a foot(x 6 ft wide). Being 6 ft wide is perfect.A piece to template my whole boat was $15.00. Well worth it in my opinion.Thanks for your feedback.Im a new member and this site is nice-easy to follow,etc...thanks again-Mike

Well Ranger, I'm imp[ressed with your work for not wanting to tackle it, lol. I have read all of your thread in one afternoon and WOW. I've got a 1976 BassCat that I'm considering redoing the bottom of the hull and am Going to look at a 88 Ranger 374V and see how it looks this Sunday before I make my decision on which one to tackle. GREAT JOB.

Mike, I have never used epoxy to stick down carpet. When I get to gluing carpet to compartment lids, I will prolly use contact cement. When I use the term "glassed in" I am refering to using epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth. Anytime you use resin, either epoxy or polyester, you need to use the appropriate hardener or it wont dry. The wood flour is used to thicken the resin. I think I explain that earlier in the thread, It's been so long I forget. Thanks for the tips on how to touch up metalic colors, and I'll try the weedblock fabric for a template.
Thanks
Steve

Thanks Randy, I am going to redo the bottom of this boat too. Should be fun flipping it over. Post some pics when you decide which boat your going with.
Thanks again

thanks Ranger 230V-sorry for "dumb" questions but - the wood flour isnt hardener-correct? Why do you thicken the resin? I just so happen to have very little fiberglass experience.Yeah the home depot weed block is perfect.Theres a few different kinds.Its the one thats resembles a thick felt.The others are more plastic.And on the roll it only looks 3 ft wide but its folded on the roll-so its 6.-After you use the floor template you can re-use it to cut out compartment lid templates-buy a separate piece of weed block for front deck and any lid templates you couldnt get w first piece.-------------I recently bought a 1984 Hydrasports bass boat model VL-475-really good shape-Evinrude 150-very happy.Doin some floor replacement,carpet,cosmetics-one day got to thinkin(dangerous!!)"I have some old BASSMASTER mags in my closet from the eighties when i was a teenager.I wonder if I have a 1984 mag with my Hydrasports in it being advertised from when it was NEW!" And I DID!! found lots of cool stuff-pics,sales adds,reviews,etc...-I just looked for your 230-V but didnt find anything off hand but gonna look a little more-maybe i can find a review or somethin.To me its just cool for novelty sake.I actually took all the Hydrasports stuff for my boat and laminated and framed it for my den with some other oddball stuff,memorabilia,etc...-If anyone else out there wants me to look up their boat to see if i have some old adds,pics,etc...I have years:79,80,81,82,83,84,and 86-rock on,Mike http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/pimp2.gif

Dont worry bout the questions Mike, Thats why were all here. I've asked plenty when I started and I'll ask plenty more. I think we take the time to make these threads, to get help and to help the next guy that comes along with the same problems.
Wood flour is not a hardener. After you have added the correct amount of hardener to your resin and mixxed it thoroughly, then you can add things like wood flour. When I glued 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together to make my 1 1/2" thick transom, I thickened the resin to the consistency of thick ketchup(with wood flour), spread it on both surfaces with a notched spreader, then stuck them together and applied weight. The reason is, straight resin is to thin and will all run out and it wont fill voids. Making the resin too thick(lets say like peanut butter) would not be good for this application either. It would not flow enough and could leave voids. On the other hand there are times when you would make it as thick as peanut butter, like lets say your transom is glued in but you need to fill some gaps around the edges before its ready to be glassed in. You would mix it thick like peanut butter, so when you apply it to a vertical surface, it will stay put and not run down into the bottom of your boat. You could actually add, in addition to the wood flour, fumed silica(cabosil) to the mixture. This additive adds a non sagging property to the mixture.
Anyway Hope this helps http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Santa1.gif

thanks-helped a lot

It's posts like these that made me get off my butt and do some work on my rig. I only need to put in about one tenth of this effort but when I see the work like this being done on this board I get motivated and have the confidence to jump into the project knowing I can look here for answers and help. Thanks for sharing this kind of detail and the pics. I'll be starting and sharing my project soon. Looking forward to seeing more of yours.

Wow, you're doing some GREAT work on this resto. I just bought an 89 330V. nice to have this thread in case I ever need to do this type of work on her. but from everything I've seen so far on mine, She's been very well taken care of over the years. Can't wait to see how your boat turns out !! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

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