It's dead, Mammy! It's dead!

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

I been called a lot of things - mentor ain't one of them. :laugh: Thanks Carlos. It's time to talk engine theory Stewart. You won't find that in your repair manual regretfully. The crankcase has to be sealed against atmosphere. The only air that can enter the engine is thru the carbs and reed valves. As the pistons move up and down, a positive pressure, negative pressure is created within each chamber in the crankcase. Each piston has it's own chamber, sealed from every other chamber. So think of the engine as 6 little engines all working together, for a 6 cylinder engine. This pulsation is utilized to pull fuel to the engine, and to pull oil and correctly metered fuel to where it is needed. This is a highly abbreviated lesson in theory but I hope it's enough for you to get my point. If you can't reseal the crankcase because the mating surfaces are boogered up from driving screwdrivers and crowbars into it, the engine is toast. There is no gasket between the crankcase halves. A perfect mating surface is critical.
If there are two locating pins, they are likely conical in shape, larger on one end than the other. They have to be driven out toward the big end. Driving them toward the little end will ruin the crankcase. Different manufacturers do these locating pins a little differently and I haven't looked at a manual for your specific engine so this is just general advice. Look around the side mating flanges for them and see if they are visible.

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This is a fundamental principle that has to be comprehended if you are going inside one of these beasts 

Tread very carefully with aluminum....

Wow, you are getting after it! This is one of the coolest threads I've followed in a while! Good luck man.

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

Anerobic sealer is available at auto parts stores for around $12. From an outboard place it costs one nut and 2 children. Go to the auto parts store!!!!!!!!!!

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I thought the children were going to be used to purchase composite reeds.

I hope he has more than 2 then. :laugh: One thing is certain, he has the cods to rip an engine apart!!!!

With your skills a long block pre-built woulda been easy, and cheap

Awesome thread guys!!!!:bows:

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

Anerobic sealer is available at auto parts stores for around $12. From an outboard place it costs one nut and 2 children. Go to the auto parts store!!!!!!!!!!

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Will do! I found Permatex for 11.49 :thumb up2:

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Originally Posted by LOSTTEXAN

This is a fundamental principle that has to be comprehended if you are going inside one of these beasts 

Tread very carefully with aluminum....

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Thanks LostTexas. I will.

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Originally Posted by basscat tyler

Wow, you are getting after it! This is one of the coolest threads I've followed in a while! Good luck man.

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I don't know about that. I took a couple of days off and I'm feeling kinda guilty about it. Got the yard mowed though and some wood split :)
Thanks for watching :beers:

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Originally Posted by Charles Prestridge

I thought the children were going to be used to purchase composite reeds.

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Still not sure I see a need for new reeds, Charles. But I appreciate your tenacity!

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

I hope he has more than 2 then. :laugh: One thing is certain, he has the cods to rip an engine apart!!!!

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I've got SIX. Yeah, go figure that. Something in the water, I guess. Wife too purty, maybe. Haha! Hopefully all my pics and mistakes help other people stuck in this situation without 10k to spend on a new engine though. That'll make it all worthwhile. Engines are way, way too expensive for the material and production costs involved. And so far beyond what the average guy can afford unless he wants to go into debt.

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Originally Posted by DLAB

With your skills a long block pre-built woulda been easy, and cheap

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Thanks DLAB, but I don't know what that is. You mean buy a new powerhead? I couldn't find one anywhere. :confused2:

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Originally Posted by Late Bite

Awesome thread guys!!!!:bows:

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Thanks Late Bite! Welcome to my mess :)


(How about my cobbled together multi-quote, eh? :beers:)

Hydro Tec, chris carson marine and even Jasper offers rebuilt powerheads. These were the 3 I ended up with after I found out mine was not rebuildable. CJ

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Originally Posted by DLAB

With your skills a long block pre-built woulda been easy, and cheap

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:yesnod:

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Originally Posted by CJ1

Hydro Tec, chris carson marine and even Jasper offers rebuilt powerheads. These were the 3 I ended up with after I found out mine was not rebuildable. CJ

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They should throw a couple on Ebay or advertise them too. I couldn't find anyone advertising powerheads when I was looking. But it's all moot now anyway. I probably couldn't afford one of those either, since the whole motor is about $5000 used.

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Originally Posted by Rich Z

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Originally Posted by DLAB

With your skills a long block pre-built woulda been easy, and cheap

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:yesnod:

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I still don't know what that is.


EDIT: Ok, it's the next day for this edit part. I looked it up on Wikipedia and for anyone else that doesn't know, the LONG BLOCK is the part the crankshaft is in, including the crankshaft and the heads. A SHORT BLOCK is just the block the crank sits in and may be what I need when this is all over. I'm sure I'll remember this for all of 30 minutes with my swiss cheese brain :nanner:

When you pull the two bolts off the piston thingy (rod) there will be a two piece bearing between the rod and crankcase journal. Mark the top or bottom of both pieces with something like a magic marker. In the event you reuse that bearing, which I would advise against, reinstall it in the same orientation that it is currently in. Look at the bearing and crank journal, the round thing the rod is bolted to, very carefully for damage. Considering the violence of the detonation or preignition, I would not reuse anything between the crank and piston. You can buy good used rods, and two new rod cap bolts are cheap. If you can find a readable number on the rod bearing, you can get it from Behring bearing or Motion industries cheap. You are in oil country, both should exist there. I doubt there's much left of the wrist pin bearings, considering the pics. But it's your engine, not mine.

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Originally Posted by SkeeterStew

Next I stood there in 110 degree swampbox I call a Garage and smiled a deep, satisfied smile.

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As you should...... Well done!!!!! :beers:

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

When you pull the two bolts off the piston thingy (rod) there will be a two piece bearing between the rod and crankcase journal. Mark the top or bottom of both pieces with something like a magic marker. In the event you reuse that bearing, which I would advise against, reinstall it in the same orientation that it is currently in. Look at the bearing and crank journal, the round thing the rod is bolted to, very carefully for damage. Considering the violence of the detonation or preignition, I would not reuse anything between the crank and piston. You can buy good used rods, and two new rod cap bolts are cheap. If you can find a readable number on the rod bearing, you can get it from Behring bearing or Motion industries cheap. You are in oil country, both should exist there. I doubt there's much left of the wrist pin bearings, considering the pics. But it's your engine, not mine.

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Because of YOU, Charlie, I bought a new set of bearings for that part :) I also bought everything from that bearing forward. New (to me) piston, new rings, big bolt looking thing (wrist pin?) that goes through the piston to hold it on the rod, and new bearings on that. Everything from the crank outward is going to be new or good second-hand.

I really appreciate all your input here! You probably saved me hundreds in this build :thumb up2:

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Originally Posted by BoatBuggy

As you should...... Well done!!!!! :beers:

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Thanks BoatBuggy! Hoping for tight lines soon :salute:

Very good. Do you have a micrometer? Can you borrow one? The crank journal needs to be measured on two axis to see what shape it is in. It took a bad beating. It must be perfectly round.

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

Very good. Do you have a micrometer? Can you borrow one? The crank journal needs to be measured on two axis to see what shape it is in. It took a bad beating. It must be perfectly round.

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I don't, but I have one of these. Will it work?

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/ezaccess...al_caliper.jpg

Since he will be installing new rings in the one cylinder, would it be best to hone that cylinder?

You will also likely need a ring compressor tool.

Well I'm not a machinist, but if it will measure to .001 accurately it will probably give you a good idea. Check it against the manual listed spec. I have a couple questions and I'll leave you alone. Have you read the entire section on reassembly? It's real important. Do you have a powerhead gasket/seal kit yet? And one comment. Everything must be real clean to reassemble. We'll get to the carb later, but the carb feeding that cylinder must be addressed.

Yes on the honing, IMO. I've done rings with fingernails, but it's no fun, and a compressor is real cheap at an auto parts store.

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Originally Posted by SkeeterStew

I don't, but I have one of these. Will it work?

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/ezaccess...al_caliper.jpg

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That is a dial caliper. It gives you three measurements. Inside and outside diameter and limited depth readings...which you use the opposite side of the guage. They are somewhat precise To tenthousands (.001). My yamaha manual gives measurements to the hundredthousands(.0001).

http://i68.tinypic.com/2mdniuw.jpg

This is the specs for my v150 taken from my manual. So you might need a digital caliper.