I just bought a 1987 Procraft, 19.5' with an Evinrude XP150...carb problems?

Here is the linkage...

at idle
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/3...gcamroller.jpg

high idle
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4963/highidle.jpg

....well, still doing the same thing.

I just dropped it off at the boat mechanic. Hopefully it is just a linc and sinc issue...and it is worth the $75. if that is the case.

ChampioNman, I so much appreciate you sending me those carbs. At least I can guarantee that that is not the issue, and they can't "force" me to rebuild them again.

This alone prevents me from having to spend $450 on carb rebuilds....

We'll see.....thanks again for everyone's help.

AS you may have guessed...this is very frustrating for me.....I feel like I should have been able to fix this myself...and I would love to understand what I missed...hopefully the guy will help me understand.

Money is an issue....but so is my time...if feel like if I don't take it in, it will definitely just delay the running of the boat for at least another week!!!!!!!!

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif

That's about as good as it gets for hitting the marks. At least you know it isn't the carbs. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stakultexsun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Even thought they appear to be 85% open?

Thanks

William

oh...I'm about to put up a couple of photos of the linkage. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Something is wrong, mine are horizontal at wide open throttle, and will completely close at idle, has been like that since brand new in 1985.
Check the cam and roller for either looseness or worn roller bushing.

Loosen the roller screw and lift it up slightly. The plates should open to 90*. The shop should fix you right up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Loosen the roller screw and lift it up slightly. The plates should open to 90*. The shop should fix you right up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to try that, but I just got a call from Mike Bunting, from Bunting Marine here is Wylie, Texas.

He says that a couple of cylinders have 50 to 60% leakage in the leak down test, the pulled one of the heads off, and says the cylinder is really torn up.

He wants me to take a look at it for myself.

Man...this is not what I wanted to hear. But at least I can see for myself. If it does need a full re-build, I guess this will be my winter project.

But I sure would like to keep it running till summer is over.

fun times. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stakultexsun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm going to try that, but I just got a call from Mike Bunting, from Bunting Marine here is Wylie, Texas.

He says that a couple of cylinders have 50 to 60% leakage in the leak down test, the pulled one of the heads off, and says the cylinder is really torn up.

He wants me to take a look at it for myself.

Man...this is not what I wanted to hear. But at least I can see for myself. If it does need a full re-build, I guess this will be my winter project.

But I sure would like to keep it running till summer is over.

fun times. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you had a chance to look at the supposedly bad cylinder yet?
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have you had a chance to look at the supposedly bad cylinder yet?
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yeah...I can feel the grooves!

Thanks for your sympathy!! This is bad news for me. Let's just hope I don't need a lower unit any time soon....that would be madness!!!

Probably from a lack of maintenance by the prior owner, a good hone job and rings may fix you up worse case bore it out oversize and put in an oversize piston. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably from a lack of maintenance by the prior owner, a good hone job and rings may fix you up worse case bore it out oversize and put in an oversize piston. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>
The engine had good power before it finally gave up, which leads me to think that the rings were carboned up which allowed excessive blow-by and led to cylinder failure.
As the ChampionNman said the lack of proper maintenance by the prior owner, such as using good oil, decarboning engine, is what lead to this failure. Hopeful, that a good hone job and rings will get you back in the water soon.

Good luck,

Melvin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably from a lack of maintenance by the prior owner, a good hone job and rings may fix you up worse case bore it out oversize and put in an oversize piston. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mike said it would need to be bored out, ...what did he say...3 thousandths of an inch?

(0.003") Does that sound right? You could see/and feel the groves.

he said that if I keep running it like that, it could make it non-rebuildable...is that true?

Suprisingly, the pistons didn't have as much carbon as I expected for a 21 yr old motor.

You can hone .003 he prolly meant .030 Thirty thousandts, which is doable.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can hone .003 he prolly meant .030 Thirty thousandts, which is doable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are the standard over bore on these engines .010, .020 and .030? I would hope that it is not scored that bad to have to go to an .030 bore and new pistons for each bad cylinder. &lt;sigh&gt;

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif

I am hoping for the .003 hone and new rings. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif


Melvin

I was surprised how much I was able to clean up the cylinders in my motor, with just honing them. I had some pretty decent scoring in most of my cylinders, but I was able to clean them up almost completely, only removing about .004" total.

If you get a good quality adjustable honing stone setup, you can clean them up very well without effecting the concentricity of the cylinders. Just make sure you clean the tool and cylinder after each pass, and take regular measurements so you don't go too far. I don't know the exact number, but I think you're not supposed to take any more than .004" before you have to oversize the cylinder and piston.

Don't get one of those deglazing setups (they call them hones) that consists of a bunch of grinding balls at the end of metal wires. They just follow the bad contours rather than taking a straght cut.

Here's what you want:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41I8SJmyZaL.jpg

Here's what don't you want:
http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/g8/ia/h...er-200X200.jpg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishinscott &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was surprised how much I was able to clean up the cylinders in my motor, with just honing them. I had some pretty decent scoring in most of my cylinders, but I was able to clean them up almost completely, only removing about .004" total.

If you get a good quality adjustable honing stone setup, you can clean them up very well without effecting the concentricity of the cylinders. Just make sure you clean the tool and cylinder after each pass, and take regular measurements so you don't go too far. I don't know the exact number, but I think you're not supposed to take any more than .004" before you have to oversize the cylinder and piston.

Don't get one of those deglazing setups (they call them hones) that consists of a bunch of grinding balls at the end of metal wires. They just follow the bad contours rather than taking a straght cut.

Here's what you want:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41I8SJmyZaL.jpg

Here's what don't you want:
http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/g8/ia/h...er-200X200.jpg

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here, here, here! http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/USA1.gif

Melvin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What are the standard over bore on these engines .010, .020 and .030? I would hope that it is not scored that bad to have to go to an .030 bore and new pistons for each bad cylinder. &lt;sigh&gt;

http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif

I am hoping for the .003 hone and new rings. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif


Melvin

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Melvin,
According to the Evinrude parts website, they offer a standard piston and a .030" oversized piston.