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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stratosgator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi there, I just replaced the floor in my 91 Stratos 201. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn dude, life must be good.. Got new floors AND winning the local Tx... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif
Sounds like you have got some good spots for some lunker bass...
Good going, care to share?
j/k
G.
I got some pictures uploaded on Shutterfly. How do i get the link to show in this post-forum?
Thanks
Couldnt tell you how to do it on shutterfly. But i wanna see them.
Shoulda loaded em on photobucket. It puts a link under each photo you upload so all you gotta do is cut and paste the code right into your post.
Garland, you said the Rot Doctor supplies came. Did you buy there Epoxy resin. When you said you bought 2 gal of RotDoc I hope you didn't buy 2 gal of CPES. Good Luck to you guys on your projects. I hope they turn out well! http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
Larry, i got two gallons of rot doctor and yes it is Cpes. I meant to order the epoxy from them. Can you please tell me what epoxy to order from rot doctor. I got the rest of the rotten floor out today and cut the wood for the new floor/decking. I called a local boat repair shop today and asked how do they repair a boat deck/floor. I was told that they use exterior grade plywood and they put fiberglass/epoxy on both sides. They also told me that they guarantee the new floor for life of the boat. I am going to use the same ext. wood for the floor and marine grade for the transom. He also told me that if any holes are put into the new floor to make sure to seal them with 5200/lifecaulk. I also figured out what the foam was wet towards the front. I have a wet storage box for life jackets and ect..I noticed that where the foam was wet it is the same place the the wet storage box drains into the foam. Larry, I could not believe the boat was built/manufactured and no one thought as to have a pipe for the drain for the wet storage box. I'm going to run a pipe for the wet box and have it drain in the bilge area. I also am going to replace the foam in the two wooden boxes in the rear. I removed the foam and it is soaked down on the fiberglass. I figured that for the floor i'm going to use something like a 1x4 and also add additional crossmember boards for the floor to nail into. This is a big project but i have not placed any time goals and am learning and crafting new things to me will work better than originally built. I think i'm going to add a drain to both front rod boxes and have a pipe attached on the ends to drain the water if any into the bilge area. I am still debating on which type of fiberglass to go with. I hear good and bad things about using the mat and or cloth.
I am not sure what types of resin's they have now, but I just bought the Rot Doctor Epoxy Resin. Oh and by the way , if I remember correctly with epoxy resin (or at least RotDoctor ) you do not have to sand inbetween coats of fiberglass.
Larry, i accidentialy orered 2 gallons of Cpes. I called steven and they are taking the 2 gallons back. I ordered 2 pints of the cpes, 12oz of epoxy filler and a 1/2 gallon of the layup and laminating epoxy resin. I'm going to start there and as i work with the floor will calculate further how much more epoxy resin i will need. I also am going to use my lifting frame and turn the hull over and repair any chips on the fiberglass. It feels like my progress is slow but i'm not pushing myself and am making sure the repairs will last for a long long time....
I will keep you posted on my progress.
G.
Those quantities of materials look a little better. Because I bet you could pretty much do a dozen boats or more with 2 gal. of CPES.
Larry, i ordered my correct product on Friday and it arrived today. Wow, fast shipping. I know where to get my products. Did you also buy your cloth from Rot Doctor also?
thanks
I just bought my glass at a local marine supply store.
Do you remember about how much cloth you used, yards and such?
Thanks
I also was wondering do you know of anyone that has used microlam wood for their transom replacement??? I know it would increase the boat weight.
you ever figure out how to post the link to your shutterfly? I wanna see the pics of your rigging.
Scott, i will do my best tomorrow evening/night and upload the lifting frame pictures on Shutterfly. I see you got your lumber ordered. If your looking for a supplier that ships quickly it would be Rot Doctor. I live in Virginia and they have a warehouse in Sc. I ordered some product on Fridayand it arrived yesterday evening. Both Jimand Steven are great for helping and knowlegable on their product as well as Steven has personal experience working on a boat.
I will try to send the link tomorrow once the pictures are uplifted.
G.
Hey man, you gotta check this video out.
I was looking at the MAS Epoxies site because I heard good things about them.
If nothing else, a transom made out of FOUR layers of 5/8"! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif
http://www.masepoxies.com/publ...ideos
They have some other how to vids as well:
http://www.masepoxies.com/publ...ideos
How is your floor coming along? Did you install new foam and if so about what did it cost for that area?
Thanks
Scott, i got the pictures taken and loaded on shutterfly.com
The link is http://javelin396repair.shutte...tag=1
I got pictures of the lifting frame and the floor and transom
let me know if this helps.
Garland
Garland, thats apretty good looking lift frame you got there. When your are finished fixing the boat you can add on to the frame amd make a garage for it. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif Looks like you are having fun! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif No idea on how much glass I used and never heard of the micro stuff.
Wow dude! That is one intense frame!!!
I actually figured out how Im going to do mine. I have a business that makes 3" diameter exhaust systems for late model Volkswagens. Every system I make results in a 2 foot long stub of pipe that gets tossed in a pile. Im going to butt weld those peices into longer sections then use that to make a frame. Its not structural pipe, but it just has to be a 10 foot by 10 foot frame, and the whole thing is only supporting 1000lbs Im guessing. 300lbs per leg should be nothing for 3" diameter 16 gauge tubing.
did you look at that MAS video? Also they had some other really good ones, one that talked about the different glasses. Once again, they said mat was worthless for strength. They did talk about biaxial mats and multi layers and so forth.
As for my floor replacement, lets just say knowing what I know now, I would have done it totally different. I actually wish I saw the MAS videos first, because they showed how to do a floor replacment on a core construction like mine, that would have been stronger and taken me 1/3 the time and 1/4 the material. Cored construction like mine is basically where you have the skin of the floor, which has a balsa wood structure that is glassed over. When its in the mold they go from the outside in so they lay out all the gelcoat, then build up the glass, then lay on the wood cores, then glass over it all. The repair they outlined is simply to cut around the edge of the glass where the wood core is, which leaves you with a pocket in the glass. Simply lay a peice of replacement wood in the pocket once you clean it up then glass over the top...
Not knowing what the hell i was doing, heres some pics of my job...
Dash stripped...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/P4160004.jpg
Console removed:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/P4160006.jpg
Entire floor section removed.. Dumb move, but I didnt know any better...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/P4290012.jpg
I then used cardboard to make a pattern that fit the hole exactly. Cut a new section out of 5/8" CDX. On the bottom side I ran 2x2s in a modified H pattern for rigidity. Then I encapsulated the whole thing in a layer of mat and then a layer of E glass. After I had it encapsulated i then placed it in the boat and faired it into the surrounding structure. After i had it joined to the surrounding structure I then put down 1 or 2 layers of roving for strength.
Somewhere along the line it ended up like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/P4300015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/P4300014.jpg
After 6 weeks the floor was redone, the cap was repainted, the old carpeting was removed and the decks were done in tintable bed liner and the remaining stuff was recarpeted. The boat was rewired, the original gauge cluster was pitched and a custom panel was made to hold late model skeeter/faria gauges, the dash boxes were reconstructed out of that poly "marine wood". The helm for the hydraulic steering was rebuilt and halfa dozen other things I forgot..
Ended up looking like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...70012Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...70010Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...70015Large.jpg
The seats werent in it because they need recovered.
Two days later is when i cracked the transom and now get to go back into it http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/crying.gif