Any idea on how to do this? The only thing that comes to mind, that is do-able in the garage would be pulling the spark plug caps so she won't fire, then hooking up the meter to the battery and pressing the start button. Would this be a capable test, or is there a better way to load test the starting battery?
Just take the battery to an auto parts store or a local mechanic shop and have it tested.
You must fully charge the battery BEFORE load testing......Go to a battery supply house, or auto parts store for testing. Don't try testing on your own.
Update: I just load tested the batteries and all of the checked out, but i did notice that one of the batteries, is a car battery - AC DELCO 31900CT . I believe this to be the cranking battery, but i can't say for certain. With that said, if this is the cranking battery, which is a car battery, could this be the issue?
Kevin,
There is no way you could have lost speed if your RPMs are the same before the event as they are now unless you changed the prop or damaged the prop or the hub is spinning. It is a direct connection. The transmission power is direct. There is no loss of shaft revolutions so you should be going at the speed you have always gone. Did you check the hub yet? Change the hub first and if that doesn't work, borrow a prop from someone and try it out. It is either prop damage or the hub.
Actually there is a way Tom, I have personally had this happen to me, Lost a coil and dropped over 10 mph and only lost about 300 rpm, I believe this is a result of a tremendous loss of Torque where yo can not get the boat all the way on the pad and losses almost all of the bow lift. In turn prop slip goes way up resulting in far less speed and minimal rpm loss, just take a lot longer to get there.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomloans
Instead of say 10% prop slip you could now have 30% slip
Not as dramatic as the op but similar, I suspect there may be more than one problem going on here
Need to start over on this one and provide all the info required in forum announcements and accurate data as well as previous performance data
Check all the basics first
Battery currently in use and actual test results
Compression test results
Spark test
Fuel pressure test on the water etc...….
I'm sticking with a bad battery! I experienced something similar to this with a 2003 225 opti!
What are the specific results of the load test?Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinbryant1
How was the load test performed?
too much DIY without specific results/ true numbers on this thread...
there is physically NO WAY possible to RUN identical RPMS of 5700 with same prop with a 10-15mph drop in speed...
if so, that prop is complete trashed or the motor is now raised an INCH or 2" higher than on previous runs...
He did not say the RPM was identical.Quote:
Originally Posted by low slung cruiser
Read the first post carefully and my post #10
Hey, i understand, i am going to put her in the water this weekend, and video. Like i said in the original post, it is possible that i misread the RPM's - When i looked at the gauge, it wasn't a study look, it was just a glance to see where she was running at wide open, it is possible i misread - i just didn't feel like that was the case. As for the numbers, i will see what i can do to get some better information on here. As i want this mystery solved, badly.
Your smartcraft should be able to recall the max rpm so you can check after your speed run.
Don't put it on the water until all the basic testing is done, could cost you motor depending on what is wrong
Listen to Leon. I am an apprentice compared to him. If you have a drop in RPM then my remarks will likely not apply.
Guys, please see update from taking the boat out - Pictures attached. As suspected, the thermostat change on the 2 cylinders did not resolve the issue. RPM's were around 5400-5500, top speed 53mph, water Pressure 19-20psi, Voltage reading 12.3v-14.1v. I did not get to put the new plugs in, as the delivery was pushed to Tuesday. I do not see any issues with the prop, as far as being bent.
Oh, and the trim gauge does not work, no clue why.
Your 3 or 4 hours from Don get an appointment and drop it off.
i'm actually in Midland TX with work.
Dash gauges are not reliable "Testing" and "Diagnostic" instruments, when it comes to electrical system related problems.
Texas is a bit of a drive to SC did you make any headway on issues My money is on an ignition problem plugs,coil