Skeeter Trailer Issue - How do I disable the reverse braking lock?

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by K.D. &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I didn't read anything other than your last post so forgive me if this is a repost.

Here is a simple test. Unplug the connector between the trailer and the truck. Turn it so that it makes a plus (+) sign. Plug the brown wire from the truck into the blue wire from the trailer. Turn on your headlights and see if you can back up.

If you can, then your truck has a fuse blown for the trailer reverse lights. Most newer trucks have a separate fuse for the truck and one for the trailer. You may see back-up lights on the truck and still have a blown reverse trailer fuse. </td></tr></table>

I thought of that, but it works sometimes...I'm learning towards the brake fluid level...

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by skeetzx225 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">It's not electrical, I'm 99% sure of that....I'm thinking it has something to do with the fuid resevior in the tongue of the trailer, i'm betting it's low and that's why the rear wheels don't unlock all the way....another hint is that this always seems to happen on level ground, when unloading the boat on the ramp decline, it seems to back up fine...maybe that's because the level of fuid moves to the back and releases the breaks..</td></tr></table>
When you are backing down a ramp, you are not pushing the trailer, the trailer is pulling you and so the brakes are not trying to engage. You have an electrical problem. Fluid level has nothing to do with the brakes locking up, if anything when you run out of brake fluid you have not brakes.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by rangerguy &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
When you are backing down a ramp, you are not pushing the trailer, the trailer is pulling you and so the brakes are not trying to engage. You have an electrical problem. Fluid level has nothing to do with the brakes locking up, if anything when you run out of brake fluid you have not brakes.</td></tr></table>

I have all working lights on the trailer, so as a last resort when I reverse the pigtail it should have worked, but it didn't. So the 4th female connector on the trailer plug was getting power and it still didn't work...

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by rangerguy &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
When you are backing down a ramp, you are not pushing the trailer, the trailer is pulling you and so the brakes are not trying to engage. You have an electrical problem. Fluid level has nothing to do with the brakes locking up, if anything when you run out of brake fluid you have not brakes.</td></tr></table>

I agree. If it was low fluid you should be able to push the trailer backward against the brakes easier. Less fluid will lead to less braking pressure.

Looking at how you have it wired, I will almost guarantee it's an electrical issue. Have you got a volt meter? Just because your backup lights come on does not mean the brakes are being disabled. You will need to check there.

I really just want to disable this trailer braking alltogether (It's too much of a pain in the a$$)

Can anyone tell me how to do that based on the picture of my trailer tongue?

There is a key style lock for the drivers side slot in the actuator in picture 2. call skeeter and they will send it. I keep mine conected to the trailer just in case. and have zip tie around togue so when I slide it in the tie holds it in place

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by skeetzx225 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I really just want to disable this trailer braking alltogether (It's too much of a pain in the a$$)

Can anyone tell me how to do that based on the picture of my trailer tongue?</td></tr></table>
You really don't want to disable your breaking system on your trailer. If you were to get in a accident and the right people discovered that you jimmied a safety item you could be in" heap big trouble".

I also have the key style lock that goes in the slot onm the drivers side and I use it when I back my boat in my shop with my tractor and it works fine. Here is a link to it on ebay so you can see what it looks like.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1289819027

part ordered, thanks

I have a 2004 skeeter trailer (just got it a week ago) for my sx200 that is having the same issue of the brakes locking up anytime I back up with any pressure (no issue going down boat ramp) but I have backed up slow as I can and it still moves the hitch to lock up the brakes so I know it is an issue with the actuator.

I have tried and tried - so I am wondering (since I can not seem to find the full wiring schematics for the trailer)... Here is the situation. I have a tow vehicle that has a 9 pin (large round plug in) so I have the converter from the 5 pin to the 9 pin. What I can visually see is the white wire that comes out of the 5 pin female connector has been cut somehow. Where is this wire suppose to connect to and is this more than likely the cause of my actuator not working properly?

If anyone has a link or simple sketch of the basic wiring diagram it would be greatly appreciated.
Also only my left brake and blinker light are currently working so I need to figure out the wiring diagram to correct this.

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP! I GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!

Your trailer is like mine. If you do not want any trialer brakes the go to the solenoid valves on the trailer tongue and unhook the fitting toward the rear and the trailer brakes are disabled.(Forward or reverse)

All you have to do is buy the lockout cap as someone made a picture of above. It goes right where your plastic cap is at. It's simple and you still use your brakes as normal.

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Bigguyone &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote"> Here is the situation. I have a tow vehicle that has a 9 pin (large round plug in) so I have the converter from the 5 pin to the 9 pin. What I can visually see is the white wire that comes out of the 5 pin female connector has been cut somehow. Where is this wire suppose to connect to and is this more than likely the cause of my actuator not working properly?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP! I GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!</td></tr></table>

You want easy? Take it to any trailer repair or auto mechanic so they can change your boats 5 flat to match your trucks camper (big round plug). Heck I bet even a better option is just going to a boat mechanics shop. Most of the plugs you mentioned (big round) have the diagram of which prong does what, it's usually on the outside cover and you can buy the new plug at most Walmarts. It's easy to replace the plug yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined.

As far as to where the cut white wire goes? It goes under the trailer tongue, that's where the lockout actuator is located. You might have to lay on your back to see it.

Sorry I did not clarify better. I do not want to deactivate the brakes I want to fix this so they work properly.

Just to clarify - the white wire that is currently cut (coming off the one female plug on the 5 prong plug) needs to go to the actuator, correct?


Modified by Bigguyone at 8:57 PM 3/18/2012

You probably have a UFP A60 activator or something similar. Technically, the white wire should be the tow vehicle ground wire. There is a blue wire on the trailer that should be connected to a blue wire from the vehicle that in tern is attached to the backup light circuit. When in reverse, the back up light comes on and the connection to the trailer energizes a solenoid in the brake activator that allows the hydraulic fluid to circulate without activating the brakes. Perhaps someone simply did not use the white wire for ground and cut it off but you will find that the trailer lights work better when connected to a tow vehicle ground.

Here is a link to an instruction manual for the brake activator. Check it out.
If it does not work simply search for the UFP site to find the instructions.

http://www.trailmastertrailers...e.pdf

Ray