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Sean:
This really needed to be in a separate post....
I believe you actually DO have a bad pressure check valve. Yes, the pressure will pulsate, but if the checking mechanism is not working CONSISTENTLY, it will prevent pressure from building in the remote tank.
BTW.... NEVER apply high pressure to the oil system. 9 psi is the MAX you should apply.
That being said- obtain a Part# 8781051 (Check Valve) and install it. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Just curious, what would this cause by adding higher pressure? Cracks in the seals? I am not sure, but I may have pumped more pressure into it but I believe that I had the hose to the top resevoir disconnected. Just wanted to see if I could get oil up to the top tank.
Don, ordered me reeds and got them in. Plan to do the work Friday. Hope this takes care of my oil pressure problem. I have good compression on all cylinders, new hoses, new check valve, cleaned screen and new oil, and no oil leaks appearing on the main tank.
Use of excessive pressure can damage hoses, oil tank, and/or oil pump seals. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
should pin this to the top!
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by golfpro307 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">should pin this to the top! </td></tr></table>
It is.... under the "Commonly Asked- Commonly Used" Topic (along with several dozen other posts). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
I recently purchased a Fisher F20-FS with a 1997 Mercury 200 EFI and I seem to have the same issue i.e. need to keep oil in main reservoir over half full to avoid the alarm. Seems rather strange as the intake tube reaches nearly to the bottom of the tank. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/ohwell.gif
Welcome to BBC! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
Remove the pickup tube cap from your oil tank, and inspect it for damage, cracks, or pinholes, which would cause AIR to be forced into the tube at lower oil levels.
However, keep in mind... oil level in the remote tank should never be allowed to drop below approximately 1/3 tank. You literally have a "liquid oil, attemting to find it's own level, in a BOAT, that's floating in another liquid... and the boat is very seldom level".
In other words... oil often rushes to one side, or the other, while turning, planing, or decelerating (and "sloshes" all over in rough water). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Use of excessive pressure can damage hoses, oil tank, and/or oil pump seals. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
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Let me just reaffirm this statement about the use of excessive pressure........had a buddy that was pressure testing his tank looking for an oil problem, he injected air into his <u>full tank</u> through the pressure side line from the motor to test the tank for a good seal, not realizing that when he turned on the air to his tank it was about 25 PSI and needless to say he had one hell'va mess to clean up after the tank exploded/split.........it wasn't a pretty picture I'm here to tell ya.... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif
I started this thread and just installed new cap and went fishing for a day before I saw all the procedures posted here. I had no alarms. Is it ok or should I perform the reservoir tank test.
I would recommend that you simply follow the bleeding proceedure (to remove ANY air in the engine mounted tank). :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by rolloman
Thanks for the tips!! Had to "search" for the thread though? Maybe Don or someone could re-pin it?? Thanks again, great info! :salute:
edit: Just noticed Im in the HP forum.. maybe a copy/paste/pin to the regular Merc forum? :embarassed: :salute:
Mick:
This thread is pinned in the "Commonly Asked- Commonly Used" post, at the top of THIS forum.
Sorry... can't pin it to others....
The check valve must be able to open and close the flow of air to the tank. When bench testing, you should be able to suck air through it (in the normal direction of flow, meaning the threaded end in the motor gets pressure) but not be able to blow back through it (pressure applied at the nipple back to the threaded end towards the motor). The pulsing is just the check valve opening and closing based on the stroke of the lower cylinders.
Be very careful of how much air you place into your in boat main tank, they will rupture if excess air pressure is applied, use 10 PSI as a max value or you could have one hell've mess to clean up in your boat not to mention the cost of a new main oil tank.
+1 to Gary's above comments. :thumb up2:
Also, keep in mind that this check valve is designed intentionally to "ever so slowly" leak OFF pressure.
This is intentional... so that after engine shutdown, the pressure in the remote tank is SLOWLY relieved, so as not to force oil through the engine's delivery system (thus oil fouling the fuel delivery system on CARB or EFI models, or the crankcase/intake on Optimax Models).
All pressure on the remote tank should be completely relieved by 5 minutes after engine shutdown.
Failure of the "relief" function in the crankcase pressure check valve is one of the most common causes of MASSIVE, MASSIVE smoking at cold starts (that clears up for the day after the first run). :wink:
Quick question. Is the engine mounted oil tank supposed to be completely full in normal operating conditions? I have a 2010 225 Pro XS and I'm getting the 4 tone alarm. I tried bleeding the tank as described but it didn't fill after a few minutes. Thanks in advance for any help. All the best!
Pop-R
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pop-R
While running, Yes, 100% full w/oil…………. you may have an air leak on the pressure side of your motor to tank hose or the in boat oil tank cap is not sealing. The motor supplies pressure to the oil tank thereby keeping a steady supply of oil available to the oil to the motor mounted oil tank.
+1 :thumb up2:
As always, thanks for the quick response and help gents. I'll check the system further today and let you know what I find. All the very best.
Pop-R
do you have to bleed it every time you add oil
So we're not confused, let me put it this way...........Quote:
Originally Posted by mudely
(engine mounted tank should not need oil added manually, it's fed by your in boat tank)
For the engine mounted reservoir tank "YES", for adding oil to your in boat oil tank, "NO"........:thumb up2: