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Great job!!! Congratulations!!!!
I am not anywhere close to a pro like Charlie, Jethro and others but;
You may run into problems (after initial 10-hour break-in) pre-mixing fuel and using the oil injection.
Too much oil can foul the plugs and create poor performance.
Great job!
And yup, that will be too much oil.
Oil mixed in the fuel means that the engine gets less fuel, this is also important to remember when adding a bit more oil "to be safe". If one where to delete the oil injection and mix with gas the jetting could need a change.
Well done with the rebuild, enjoyed reading it a lot!
I am in awe. Way to go. I guess it's true what Carlos says....."If man made it, I can take it apart". GREAT job!!
Great job man! Congrats and that last pic makes it all worth it!
If you are going to mix her 50:1 in the tank you might as well get rid of the oil injection, 50:1 is thwe most oil it will need even at WOT, anything more than that isnt doing any good.
Great Job , Best shade Tree Mech on BBC.
I just started reading your thread yesterday, and read it all the way through! Great job and documentation on the rebuild. The Moderator should "Sticky" this thread. If I'm not mistaken, you should be able to put #1 cylinder at TDC using your dial indicator and mark your flywheel.
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I'm no pro, I just try to help people where I can. Seeing that beautiful girl smile makes it all worthwhile. Great job man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Larry is correct, set the #1 piston manually to TDC and mark the flywheel, that will be 0. You will need BTDC and maybe ATDC, depending on engine specs. If you can't come up with a marked flywheel for that engine, you can measure very carefully around the circumference of the wheel at the point where you will put the marks. Then divide by 360 to get 1 degree increments, double it to get 2 degree increments. I don't expect that circumference measurement will be easy, if you can find any marked wheel for that engine, you can take measurements for the markings off of it and transfer them to your wheel.
I would not double oil it after the first few hours, it will foul plugs and build up carbon. If you want to insure your oil pump is working correctly, your manual should have a procedure listed whereby you run the engine on premix while measuring the output of the pump into a graduated container.
If the engine has the O2 sensor it will also foul the sensor.
But anyway, my fishing/shade tree hat is off to you. Job well done!
:bows: Great job!
:bows: ...job well done :thumb up2:
From his pictures the flywheel is marked. I think all he needs is to verify the pointer lines up with TDC when the piston is actually at TDC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie206
What I did not see in his write-up was the use of a timing light.
If some of the better mechanics can steer him in the right direction on verfying TDC with the pointer and flywheel and then using a timing light, I think that is what he needs.
I didn't look back thru the pics. Use a dial indicator to manually set #1 to TDC. Set the pointer to match the flywheel. That is zero, TDC. Then run a timing light to set static timing per spec at idle. To verify WOT timing without a dyno is dangerous.
http://royalgram.co.uk/wp-content/up...t-code-fts.jpg
I can't believe I read the whole thing. Binge read it to page 10 and then followed it like a soap opera for the last couple weeks. I don't even have a Yamaha....I'm a Merc guy. :laugh: I even told the guys at the service dept at BPS about this thread. GREAT JOB HOMEIE!!!! :thumb up2::thumb up2::thumb up2::thumb up2::thumb up2::thumb up2::thumb up2:
Nice job for sure
Congratulations.:beers::bows::newyear:
I've followed from the beginning, very well done from the actual work to all the documentation along the way.
Great job on the rebuild! I hope she lasts years for you.
Fine job!!
Epic. Simply freaking epic.....Quote:
Originally Posted by SkeeterStew
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