It's dead, Mammy! It's dead!

These are things you can run into on older engines where people in the past have messed with them. The oil pump should only have lines going to where the oil goes, I think. It sounds like you've studied the manuals carefully. It wouldn't be any big surprise if in the past parts have bee substituted and you may be dealing with a hybrid. So route the hoses for what you think you have. Read the section of the manual that explains all the hosing and what it is for, look over the engine, and insure that you are comfortable that what you are doing is in line with the theory of operation. Wish I could be more specific, but I'd have to be standing there looking at it myself to be positive of what is happening.

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

These are things you can run into on older engines where people in the past have messed with them. The oil pump should only have lines going to where the oil goes, I think. It sounds like you've studied the manuals carefully. It wouldn't be any big surprise if in the past parts have bee substituted and you may be dealing with a hybrid. So route the hoses for what you think you have. Read the section of the manual that explains all the hosing and what it is for, look over the engine, and insure that you are comfortable that what you are doing is in line with the theory of operation. Wish I could be more specific, but I'd have to be standing there looking at it myself to be positive of what is happening.

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I understand. I wish I knew more about he "dripless hoses" (also called Fuel Puddle lines) but nothing in either manual explains them very well. I can see that on all the engines Yamaha made for ProV systems they're all routed from the cylinder to the reed assembly then to the intake ports, but for the life of me I don't know why.

The oil system I'm more certain of than anything. The oil injection ports are above each cylinder at where the carbs attach. This makes all kinds of sense to me since they would suck in the dripping oil pumped by the oil pump along with gas for combustion. I am 100% certain the oil hoses are right. I'm only 75% certain the fuel puddle lines are correct. :praying:

Ok, tonight I was able to look at the theory behind the "fuel puddle" hoses.








http://st.depositphotos.com/1914485/...hool-Time..jpg









It seems that at idle the reeds drip excess gas and oil back behind the reed system. This stuff puddles up and gets sucked through the hoses to the combustion chamber. So the hoses need to run from those reed puddle areas to the combustion chambers. With this in mind, I'm about 90% sure my hose routing is good, going by the book and not the previous setup. Injecting oil from the tank into the reed system wouldn't be good since that's already a fuel/oil mix. My only hiccup is how I wanted to route the shorter hoses by the carbs. I think due to gravity they won't pull the puddle to the chamber (unless the piston sucks it out from the hose via vacuum) because some of the hoses go up instead of down. I might need to re-route or shorten those that are wonky like that.


I did a bunch more today. Update coming tomorrow :beers:

Keep up the updates and pictures!

The pulser sets the timing for the engine. The linkage pulls it, advancing the timing, as you throttle up, and vice versa. If the repair fails, depending on where the engine is at within it's throttle range and where the timing winds up, it could lead to catastrophic engine failure. In other words, be very sure the repair is solid.

subscribed to see this puppy running :thumb up2:

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

The pulser sets the timing for the engine. The linkage pulls it, advancing the timing, as you throttle up, and vice versa. If the repair fails, depending on where the engine is at within it's throttle range and where the timing winds up, it could lead to catastrophic engine failure. In other words, be very sure the repair is solid.

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I just checked it and it's a crumbly mess. I'll need to order a new one. It's not supposed to spin around any is it? When I press it onto the crank it's freaking ON THERE and I mean TIGHT. It ain't moving, not even a little bit.

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Originally Posted by music man

subscribed to see this puppy running :thumb up2:

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Welcome to my mess :) Fingers crossed we get there!






Also, I found a writeup in one of my manuals about installation. It doesn't say anything about pressing it down on the crank. In fact, on number 7 here it says to check it to make sure it DOES move. Hmm. I guess it's supposed to have some play in it?


http://i64.tinypic.com/288nyth.jpg

I'm going to b doing something similar to a 150 pro v. good luck with it!! hope it runs for another 1000 hrs.

You should never have to hammer down the pulser. You have it on there wrong, bad wrong, Yes it "spins around".

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Originally Posted by dpmizell

I'm going to b doing something similar to a 150 pro v. good luck with it!! hope it runs for another 1000 hrs.

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It's daunting till you get all the electrics and hoses off. Then it's kinda fun :)

Good news for you, I believe all of my part numbers are the same as yours. You won't have to do much # searching :thumb up2:

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Originally Posted by Charlie206

You should never have to hammer down the pulser. You have it on there wrong, bad wrong, Yes it "spins around".

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Well, shucks. So it just sits up there? I had to pry it off, remember. That's what made me think it needed seating with a dead blow. I'll be gentle with the new one!

http://www.bbcboards.net/attachment....d=248457&stc=1
Even though it may not be separated doesn't necessarily mean it's good. They can stretch, distort, or have small pin holes. If you have the the replacement diaphragm, just replace it.

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Originally Posted by HaulinBass

http://www.bbcboards.net/attachment....d=248457&stc=1
Even though it may not be separated doesn't necessarily mean it's good. They can stretch, distort, or have small pin holes. If you have the the replacement diaphragm, just replace it.

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I do have both fuel pump diaphragms. I'll do that and not have to mess with it again for a few years :yesnod:

Little update: The parts come in tomorrow. We're possibly on the water this weekend!

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Originally Posted by SkeeterStew

Little update: The parts come in tomorrow. We're possibly on the water this weekend!

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Been watching this thread for a while. Very impressive for a DIY'er. Great job so far. Looking forward to the happy ending.

:newyear:

Give it some gas!

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Originally Posted by JoeFriday

Been watching this thread for a while. Very impressive for a DIY'er. Great job so far. Looking forward to the happy ending.

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Thanks Joe! Me too :praying:

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Originally Posted by HaulinBass

:newyear:

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:yesnod:

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Originally Posted by reelmin5

Give it some gas!

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Premium gas! (to avoid detonation) and 50:1 mix in the tank along with oil injection system. That's my go-to fuel for ol' Nemo from now on. Never again will he worry about running dry on 'earl! (oil, southern style!)

Looking forward to the positive results...

Filing was the right thing, now you know why it wouldn't go, and also know why I like to yell "put that hammer down". :laugh: You see what hammers cause? I hope you put locktite on those screws under the flywheel. It's pretty important they do not back out, as in REAL important. Check your wiring very carefully as you finish it up to insure it is routed such that it has no chance of contacting the flywheel. You are very close but I need to digress. You said earlier you cleaned the carbs. I don't know what caused the pre-ignition / detonation that took the engine down, but a common cause is a lean condition from a partially clogged high speed circuit in the carb that feeds the blown cylinder. Did you disassemble it, soak in cleaner, and blow with compressed air every hole, passageway, orifice, jet and any other word you can think of? Did you locate the high speed jet and look for clogging? Did you close each adjustment screw lightly, counting the turns, then set them back to the same number of turns upon assembly? This is how to clean that carb. I'm not trying to slow you down, I just want you to have success and am offering this advice because it is your first rodeo. And while we are chatting - I respect a man who will jump on a job like this for the sake of his family.

That plastic thingy on top goes on next :laugh: