I'm rebuilding my motor.

e200fsleen
I have posted at S&F too. I need as much experience and tips as I can get.

It looks like the person who rebuild the motor did something wrong.

Here are some preliminary pics:

The leakdown test:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...l3leakdown.jpg

The Plugs:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...uyal/plugs.jpg

The starboard side:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...boardblock.jpg

Notice the direction of the cylinder crowns.
Here is a full size pic:
http://i161.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg

The part number on the piston is 5000789. The parts catalog says that is for a motor with suffix "O". My suffix is "N".

When the motor was rebuilt, cyl 3 was resleeved, and a new piston and rod were installed.


Here is a pic of cyl 1 rod cap:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...cyl1rodcap.jpg

Here is cyl 3 rod cap:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...cyl3rodcap.jpg

Why does cyl 3 rod cap have holes in it?


Any ideas?
Did the motor get the wrong pinson installed, or is the directon wrong?
I have called BRP tech support, and the could not help.


Thanks.

right off the bat, lookes to me like the put the rod/piston on#3 upside down.... if so, the port timing and ports on the pistons are where your leak is...

Yep, somebody had a little too much Tequila! As for the rod cap with the holes in it, thats cool, all the newer versions had oil holes in them. The bearings get way more oil that way. You better look hard at the whole shooting match! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif

Man that sux.

Yeah, I thought is was upside down.

So what do I need to replace?
Can I simply orient the piston correctly and put it back together?

Of coarse the gaskets will be new, but what else should I replace?

Thanks.

I would pull all the pistons out, clean the block with HOT SOAPY water, check the rings, clean the Gel Seal off the crank case halves and clean everything again, if he put one piston in wrong I would not trust anything he did.

That is the correct part number for your piston. Look on the stamping on the piston head I'll bet is says starboard exh (exhaust) p/n 5000789. That means that the stamping should be pointed toward the center (exhaust) of the block. You'll have to pull the piston, and check the orientation of the connecting rod and cap there should be a small dot on both and they should be pointed up towards the flywheel.
You will VERY carefully have to remove the wrist pin so you can flip the piston if the connecting rod is correct. If you got real luck and everything is 180* out then play the lotto. If you have to remove the pin then get a pair of new circlips for the wrist pin.
If you are real good you can pull the piston without tear down by removing the cap screws and pushing it out. But looks like you have most of the motor down any way so go ahead with the procedure that Elgin prescribed. Good luck.

Thanks for the replies.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.
If you are real good you can pull the piston without tear down by removing the cap screws and pushing it out. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's just pretend for a moment I am real good and I push the piston out.
How would I get the rod cap properly aligned through the crankcase when I reinstall?

Like I said you've got to be real good. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Well I spent about 5 hours today decarbing using engine tuner and a wire brush.

Starboard before:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...l/IMG_0983.jpg

Starboard after:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...oarddecarp.jpg

Port before:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...portbefore.jpg

Port after:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...portdecarb.jpg

Head After:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...headdecarb.jpg

Here is the only damage I can find on the motor:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...uyal/ring1.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...uyal/ring2.jpg


This is what a pinned head looks like:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...pinnedhead.jpg

Roddy on boatsetup.com says to use 6 cans of engine tuner to decarb. Well, I'll tell you right now, 6 cans would not even come close to cleaning my motor. Like I said, engine tuner and a wire brush + 5 hours! Oh, I had to use a scraper first, then tuner and brush.

That ring damage is the only damage I see to the whole motor. The cylinders are smooth and shiny. No pits or scorring.

Is there enough damage to the rings to warrant replacement, and another breakin period?

It would appear from the pits in the rings that the motor was assembled dirty, I would again suggest you tear it down and wash it with hot soapy water and replace all the rings.

If it was me, I would go all the way down with it, that way u know it is right... hate to see ya try it and really mess the block up......

Tell RODDY THE WITCHDOCTOR said HI!!!!!!!!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

There appears to be something under the lower ring that I can't quite make out but it is bent. At this point you're gonna need another ring set. So take the rings off and break one and use it to clean the grooves on the piston ring seats. And you may as well tear it apart now and wash everything with warm soapy H20. Hmm Rowdy does like overkill with the tuner.

This just keeps getting better and better!

What's wrong with this picture?

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...earingpins.jpg


I can't even believe it!!!

I dont get it.

Looks like something is missing to me and was that way for the last rebuild. I do not want that guy rebuilding one for me!

The dowel pins are missing for the crank shaft bearings are gone! Check your crankshaft and see if the nubs are in the bearings.

Also looks like to me Magna flux dye left over and block not cleaned, block looks contaminated to me. Like Elgin says wash it out with warm soapy H20, I use Dawn dish soap and one of those Mother's polishing balls on a drill and run it through the cylinders. Before you do that pop it in a parts washer tub and clean it out with solvent. Remove all of that pink junk with gasket remover and us a plastic scraper to remove residue. Spray mating surfaces with Locquic primer and use OMC gel seal to seal the crank case surfaces, FOLLOW the manual.

At a boy.....rebuild it yourself. You can do it!!!! Take your time.

Yeah,
The dowel pins are pressed into the block. Gonna have to drill them out and put some new ones in. Fortunately, the bearing sleeves and bearings are fine.

Thanks for the all the tips. I will definitely take my time!