Can you just unhook the trim switch an be able to raise an lower at wot @ engine

1994 150 evinrude Mod # e150elerv

while under full thottle i can not get the trimm all way up , if i unhooked switch would the trim be able to keep going up. I adjusted it yesterday but i must of either went the wong way or did not help cause still could not get trim all way up.

At speed, the trim-tilt will only move the motor in the trim range, it will not tilt at all.

I feel that if i can raise the motor more i can pick up more speed, someone said you can add trim extender tabs......can you on my motor ?

These engines usually have plenty of trim angle. You probably need to raise the engine.

Kenneth

I believe your tilt/trim is working correctly. It is not uncommon for the trim gauge to not work through the full range or be set to show it correctly.

If you want us to help you get it setup correctly, give us more information. Lets also try to keep your posts in one topic and not have people trying to help in three different topics.

We will need:
WOT RPM
Water Pressure
GPS Speed (really would help if you can ge it)
Prop shaft to pad measurement (if done correctly, it could probably help the most)

Kenneth

Ok the wot is 53-5400 this evening , the prop on the engine is a 13.25 x 25 4 blade prop, the water pressure is 25-28 wot.

I will check the measurement on the prop to pad tomorrow evening.

I can get a friend to drive his boat beside me in mine trhis week.

Thanks

here is the WOT info from the factory manual that comes with the motor:
" full throttle operatering range is 4500-5500 RPM"
* power at prop shaft at 5000 rpms 150 hp*
you have stated it is on a 377 javelin of the same year, your speed will depemnd on a number of things in a small boat like that, 1) weight distrubution, 2) weight of tackle, and such
Yes they are boats that were a little overpowered with a 150 which made them a rocket for their class but 55-60 is about the best you will see. Speed also depends on the condition of the boat, ( hull, if the stringers have water in them, your livewells full and such.) http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif

What really has me messed up is that i have no rooster tail at all , if my wife goes with me an if the livewells are full it still will run the same mph. I thought that it should pick up some at least with a light load ? I know that in drag racing that 75lbs in a dragster is a tenth of a second in the 1/8 mile. Well i will check the measurements tonite on the prop an pad.

I just want to get all that i can out of it, i know im not going to run with the bigger boats an bigger pocket books. Thanks

If that is the case, it appears you can raise the motor some. This would be better than trying to trim more. Overtrimming becomes inefficient because the HP is trying to lift the front of the boat instead of making it go forward faster.

Kenneth

Kenneth is right, also I think the 25 Gade is too much prop for that engine. I think if you dropped to a 23 Gade or 24 Raker you will see much better performance outta that rig.!!JMHO

First what is a "gade" ?
If i drop down to a 23 in a 4 blade then i would over rev the engine ?
what is max rpm that i should turn this engine ?

"Gade" is short for Renegade which is a four blade prop usually listed in odd # pitches. The Raker is the three blade usually listed in even # pitches. I may have spoke out of turn as to the 23 P. Seems your rig is lighter than I first thought.

I took an checked the distanced between the pad an prop an it was 4.5 inches , i took an raised the jack plate 1 inch so it is now 3.5 inches. I took it out to the lake an it went 60 mph with a rooster tail about 1 foot below the top of engine. the rpm was right at 5500 an once i seen it was 5600. The water pressure was 30 lbs at wot.

When i go to a 3 blade like a raker do you think i need to get a 24 or 26 with these rpm's ? I am after all i can get out of it at this point since the fish are not biting that good for me right now !!!!

What is some of the props that i can get in a 3 blade that are good ones an if i get used what are things i need to look at to know i am getting good stuff ?

Thanks

I would try a 25 Tempest first. These can be run on your engine by using a Hub Kit.

Kenneth

I would go with a 24" Raker you need to check the hub for cracks and the ears for dings. The Tempest as Kenneth said is also a good prop.
You could also try raising the motor some more. You have good H20 pressure, your goal is to get maximum lift with out loosing speed and H20 pressure while not overreving the motor at max trim.

What is max rpm's for my motor ?

Normaly how do you know how big of a prop to go with when changing from a 4 blade to a 3 blade ?

Would it be best for me to work this 4 blade prop out to maxium potential then run those numbers for when i get a 3 blade ?

Thanks

A 25 Tempest should provide you the best speed opportunity. This has been run on Stratos 285 with 150 Johnson or evinrude with success. I would think it would work on your boat as well. I think you are getting closer with your engine height but I would not do more until you get another prop (if that is what you intend to do). The new prop may need a different height setting than the one you are currently running.

Kenneth

When you say hub kit what do they cost an what is involved in putting them on a prop ?

Where do you get these at ?

An are they (tempest) that much better than the raker or other brands ?

Thanks

Your choice will be a 24 Raker II or the 25 Tempest. The Raker props only come in even pitches.

The Tempest props come with the option of inserting different hubs (can run on any brand engine). You will need the hub kit to match the evinrude shaft. You can either get the Mercury Flo Torq II Hub Kit or the Michigan Wheel XHS System (XHS-100).

Kenneth

Is the Tempest that much better of a prop or is it because they have a 25 pitch ?

Would it be better to get a 26 pitch Raker an have it made to a 25 ?