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I am looking at a SF150SX online. The owner says there are cracks in the transom. I understand that some the Starfires from the late 80's had transom rot issues. (thanks to reading this board) Is it possible that the cracks are NOT indicating a rotten transom. The boat looks absolutely cherry otherwise. I have not been there in person yet and plan to go look at it. Just trying keep my hopes realistic. I real bad want my first real bass boat and love the looks of the Skeeters.
Cracks are usually caused when the gelcote flexes. If all the wood in the transom is soft it would allow it to flex. Boat could have struck and underwater obstruction to cause it too. Then again the 2003 Stratos I used to have had a few cracks and never hit anything.
When you take a look at it, remove the transom saver from the motor, tilt down a little and push/put your weight on the motor and see if it flexes. You might want one bad, but take your time in chosing one. If a transom is rotten, it can be fixed for some $$$$, but when the cap comes off you may be opening a can of worms and find more rotting. Just something to think about. Just take your time and chose wisely.
Thanks guys your advice is appreciated. I have be reading this board for a few years and just never had reason to get involved. Hopefully this boat will come through and I can ask lots more questions.
Chad,
I have a 1988 SF150SX - I had to redo the transom and some stringers on my boat for a cost of about $2,700 - It is solid now but I would be carefull. Take the transome saver off and just hop up on the lower unit wings and see if the transome flexes at all. if it does run away from it. If not good be a good starter boat - my little 17'8" boat will flat get it at 67gps. However I did change my lower unit to a large hub to run a 25P Tmpest Plus.
Be careful ,those models are notorius for transom rot. I had a 1988 sf175sx and had to replace my transom. Otherwise the boat was great. Not a cheap fix though! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif
I have no issues with mine, I have a few cracks in the gelcoat on the top cap close to where the motor is which were there when I got the boat 6 years ago and they haven't gotten worse....mind you these aren't transom cracks.
There are plenty more boats out there, I wouldn't risk it unless the price was extremely right which would alow for the repair.
I am going to check out the boat next week, at $1500 with a running 150 I think I can do some work to it. Or am I kidding myself.
See if the owner will allow you to tighten the motor mounting bolts. If the wood is bad the washers will start to sink into the splashwell and into the glass down in the bildge. The jump on the motor/ transom flex is a good start, but remember, any visable flex is bad. Also check the aluminum transom cap cover. If this is cracking along the bend this would suggest the transom is flexing. It is rebuildable if you so choose.
The bad thing about a rebuild is when you remove the top cap you will have to recarpet the boat because the top cap is attached to the floor of the boat by the step up, left of the console. You basically have to break it apart to get the top cap off.
Yes the topcap attatches to the floor, but with a little careful removal around the base the carpet can be pulled back enough to do the work needed and then glued back down when finished. I did mine and you would never know. Now if you have to take up the subfloor to repair the stringers underneath, that is another story.
Well I bought it. It has cracks in the corners of the splash well. The transom is not flexing much if at all when I get on the motor. I figure to put the CPES? in the transom this winter to help protect and stiffen it up. Now I need to get a jackplate and fix the skeg and get the prop reworked(it is rough). The prop is a 24 Raker, if I remember right that should be a decent one to start with.
so it's a johnson/evinrude?
It's a good prop. Send it to Mark in the props forum he does great work....he's not expensive and you'll get it back witin a week or so.