Have any of you guys ever mounted a transducer on the boat underneath the jackplate on a 2100? I was wondering if this position would work. Free of interference etc. The shoot through just isn't getting the job done anymore.
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Have any of you guys ever mounted a transducer on the boat underneath the jackplate on a 2100? I was wondering if this position would work. Free of interference etc. The shoot through just isn't getting the job done anymore.
Keep in mind that the transducer on the bottom of the jackplate should be out of the water when you're running (I think). Thats why on my Humminbird they make a Y cable so you can attach a shoot thru transducer in the hull. The SI transducer goes on the jackplate and reads at low speeds, then the unit switches over to the thru hull at high speeds.
Your other option would be to mount a transducer low on the hull so that it is in the water at all times, but my 'bird SI transducer says only up to 65mph so that may not be an option for you either.
get a new thru hull, and clean the mounting hole up good and clean..then remount it where it was, with some marine tex..take it from me...you wont be happy with any mounting on the transom...not to mention you are going to hit it or knock it off just about every trip...most of the time when your signal starts going bad, the ducer is breaking loose from the bottom...i had 2 of them break loose..
LD
Thanks LD! The problem with that would be the amount of epoxy they used to start with. There are two ducers in there. One for the graph and one for the flasher and the ducers were almost completely covered with epoxy and the two are packed tightly together in that hole. I don't see how I can break one of them loose. Also can you tell me why there is two wires going to each ducer? The only thing I can think of is that maybe they wired the temp sensors from the back of the boat to the temp sensors on the pucks they epoxied in the hull. I guess they could solder the wire to the sensor on the puck and make it work. Would they do such a thing? Any way I know what you mean about breaking the ducer off. I thought about moving it up slightly above the bottom of the bottom of the hull just underneath the jackplate. I do not care if it reads while the boat is on plane, just while idling around. One othe thing is that they cut out two more holes in front of the ducers they mounted but did not cut them deep. If I use these holes for a new ducer do I need to cut them all the way to the glass and how can I smooth the glass once I hit it. Thanks again, Mossman
Answer to your two wire X-ducers.
The shoot through hull X-ducers have an external temp sensor wire that is mounted to the OUTSIDE of the hull for true water temps.
These type X-ducers are used instead of a NETWORK temp sensor.
JAZII
so if I put in a new shoot thru ducer I will not have temp. Is this correct? I had never heard of a ducer with two wires from lowrance. Is there a connector that goes to the sensor on the outside of the boat and how can you tell which one goes to the flasher and which one goes to the graph. Sounds like a complicated method. None of my other gamblers were rigged this way. Thanks JAZII
Sorry to hijack your post mossman, but the people I bought my boat from mounted the transducer on the transom and its on my to do list to mount it inside the hull. Is the place to mount the transducer underneath the middle battery tray?
No, it is under the console between the seats. You need to cut all the way to the fiberglass for a good reading.
How does the console come out? I know it has two screws just below the seat in the front.
take those out and pull straight up on the console
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mossman »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">so if I put in a new shoot thru ducer I will not have temp. Is this correct? I had never heard of a ducer with two wires from lowrance. Is there a connector that goes to the sensor on the outside of the boat and how can you tell which one goes to the flasher and which one goes to the graph. Sounds like a complicated method. None of my other gamblers were rigged this way. Thanks JAZII</td></tr></table>
You would have three options for temp, with two being the most accurate.
1) shoot through puck with built in temp sensor. Not the best option, temp readings would be the temp of the hull.
2) shoot through puck with external temp sensor. This what you have now. The temp probe wire comes out of the puck and mounts to the outside of the hull, usually just below the jack plate on the transom. True surface temps.
3) A network temp sensor that would be used on any of your units that are connected to the network system. Mounted on the transom, true surface temps.
You can go to the manufactures web site to see what types of X-ducers are offered for your units.
JAZII
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mossman »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Thanks LD! The problem with that would be the amount of epoxy they used to start with. There are two ducers in there. One for the graph and one for the flasher and the ducers were almost completely covered with epoxy and the two are packed tightly together in that hole. I don't see how I can break one of them loose. Also can you tell me why there is two wires going to each ducer? The only thing I can think of is that maybe they wired the temp sensors from the back of the boat to the temp sensors on the pucks they epoxied in the hull. I guess they could solder the wire to the sensor on the puck and make it work. Would they do such a thing? Any way I know what you mean about breaking the ducer off. I thought about moving it up slightly above the bottom of the bottom of the hull just underneath the jackplate. I do not care if it reads while the boat is on plane, just while idling around. One othe thing is that they cut out two more holes in front of the ducers they mounted but did not cut them deep. If I use these holes for a new ducer do I need to cut them all the way to the glass and how can I smooth the glass once I hit it. Thanks again, Mossman</td></tr></table>
There is a very good reason they are installed that way. Gamblers have two separate hulls with foam sandwiched in between. When you install a shoot-thru transducer, you have to drill thru the first hull and foam to reach the second hull where the transducer is mounted. Then the hole is filled and sealed with the epoxy to prevent water intrusion into the foam.
Gman
most times, you can put a hit on the ducer with a small hammer, and it will pop right out...most times.....sometimes the ducer pops, but you spend 2 days with a dremel cleaning the hole back up....
LD