2006 ETEC 60 Engine Hot & Buzzer sounding

Hi Folks,

I was running in from about 2 miles out at just under WOT, and Just before reaching the jetty the engine hot light came on and buzzer sounded. The rpms were reduced to 1200. After the light went off I was able to increase the speed again, but the problem resurfaced after going at WOT for a few minutes.

I ran diagnostics on the engine, and found several error codes concerning the engine temperature sensor, and the engine operating below and above range. I am thinking the engine temperature probably is faulty, but was wondering ig any of the experts here had any other suggestions.

The last time I ran diagnostics on this engine there were no fault codes stored at 955 hours. Since then...

961 hours (once) ~ engine temperature fault (code 41)
961 hours (once) ~ engine temperature below expected range (code 42)
1015 hours (69 times) ~ engine failed to attain proper operating temperature (code 58)
1291 hours ~ engine temperature above expected range (code 43)



I have attached the engine report - rather, I would like to attach the engine report, but I don't seem to be able to.....does this forum allow attachments? if not, I will gladly email the engine report to anyone that would like to take a look...

thanks...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gcmarshall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi Folks,

961 hours (once) ~ engine temperature fault (code 41)
961 hours (once) ~ engine temperature below expected range (code 42)
1015 hours (69 times) ~ engine failed to attain proper operating temperature (code 58)
1291 hours ~ engine temperature above expected range (code 43)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

With both under and overtemp problems, you need to check out the whole cooling system thoroughly.

Replace the complete pressure relief valve assembly, hopefully you are still in warranty. At almost 1300 hours of saltwater use, the thermostat should be replaced and the area around it checked for salt buildup or corrosion.

The water pump kit should be replaced if it hasn't been done recently. Use only the complete factory kit #5001595. Blow out all the water passageways just to be sure while things are apart.

Also check the boat for any transducers, thru-hulls, etc. within 14" of the centerline of the motor to make sure nothing is disturbing clean water flow to the inlet screens on the gearcase.

Have you gotten new props yet that gets your rpms up into the recommended range?

Damn!, now you are making me thirsty for a cold Banks beer and it's not even 9:00 AM yet

Thanks Seahorse!

I will email my dealer with your responses and hopefully he will agree.

I should be under warranty still, as the engines are under 1 year old. However, my dealer hasn't been able to find if there is a maximum number of hours allowed or not by BRP.

I do have a transom transducer installed but that was installed at the same time as the engines....so it should not start to affect them now.

Regarding the props, I did get the 13" pitch ones installed (down from 15" pitch) and the boat does about 5300 to 5400 rpms at WOT reading from the guages. Interestingly enough, the diagnostic software says that the engine has reached a top rpmn of just over 6000, so I don't know if there is a slight disconnect between what is read on the gauges and what is read by the emm.

UPDATE...

My dealer wanted me to use the diagnostic software and check the engine temp through the range. Strangely enough, I could not get the starboard engine to overheat, and it would not go above 80 degrees C.

On the starboard engine the temp varies between 62.5 C and 80 C
The port engine (which wears plugs a bit faster) varied between 58.5 C and 80 C.

I am probably going to see if I can get the thermostat and water pressure relief valve assembly changed on each engine, as well as getting the longer deflector pins installed -&gt; hopefully that will bring up the minimum engine temperature to 65.5 C and help increase spark plug life, as well as possibly solve the problem with the over heating.

I will also change the water pump on the starboard engine in case that has a problem. (the engine does have on 1300 hours in salt water, so it couldn't hurt to change it)

Any comments on this plan?

Gary,

Make sure your dealer installs the lastest software dated 4-9-07 and follows the procedures of service bulletin 2006-07 S dated 10-06 for checking and repairing engine temps in your motor. It should idle about 68°C for best plug life.

Thanks a lot Seahorse!

My dealer has provided me with the bulletin and I will make the checks on the thermostat & pressure relief valve this weekend?

Are you sure that there was a software update for the 2006 60 ETEC? I am running the same Prog. Version 3030371 Prog. Revision 90186 Map Version 60L10315 which came with the engines - and my dealer checked and said this is still the latest version...

thanks.




Modified by gcmarshall at 6:26 AM 5/24/2007

well...so much for BRP taking care of you...

My dealer asked me to inspect the thermostat and pressure relief valve according to the service bulletin. The thermostat visually looked ok (to a novice) but I could not access the pressure relief valve as it would require hauling the boat to remove the oil tank.

At any rate, BRP responded in the end, "the suggestions made in the bulletin are for service purposes only and are not made from a warranty perspective retroactively or otherwise ie defective product parts or workmanship - the product is constantly being reviewed and improved and design changes are happening all the time as are most products. This cannot then be applied retroactively in the form of a warranty claim. "

The dealer has kindly agreed to cover labour if I will cover the parts.

Regarding changing the deflector pins, even though BRP stated, "if you install the V6 90 deflector pins (longer than the original ones) on this Engine, you will certainly increase the spark plug life." they however do not consider these to be something they will cover under warrantee, and in addition the dealer has said,"I am not going to get involved in or take any responsibility in the replacement of deflector pins which will involve the removal and manipulation of the cylinder heads - if you wish to modify the engine with the hope of extending the plug life that is your decision but you do it under your own steam and at your own risk".

*sigh*.....I guess I will have to pay for the pressure relief valves and thermostats in each engine, as well as pay for the water pump kit and installation myself. And these engines are only 9 months old.

interestingly enough, the boat has been used nearly every day since my previous post and the engine is no longer overheating, so I'm not sure if I need to change parts for this or not...