Re: part # check (rayz379)
Are we talkin' battery cable?
Re: part # check (rudetech1)
I was thinkin about that too, but seems mighty longggggggggggggggggggg for a battery cable, you mean the main harness that goes to the control http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/popcorn.gif box?
Re: part # check (THE WITCHDOCTOR)
586770 says it is for 300 hp, it should be 124".
Re: part # check (rudetech1)
the tag on it, and yes we are talking battery cables, says exactly to the wording what i listed above except that is is 148" not 140" I just ran out and looked again. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Re: part # check (rayz379)
You don't necessarily need that much cable. The cable may be from older stock. I would have them shortened to only what you need. They should not be looped up in the back. 1 or 2 loops is ok, more than that and we get some electrical disturbance. The shorter the cable, the more amp to the engine when you need it!
Re: part # check (rayz379)
I just pulled excess cable out from in between batteries, I can take the doubled excess and reach back out of my rear compartment to the front of the motor, I would say it is at least 6' to long http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif this cable is old and dirty and the positive "boot" where it goes to the starter solenoid dont fit,it is just laying on top of the solenoid, wont fit over the nut and wire end http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/ohwell.gif they just charged me $75.00 for this old cable with "zip tie" marks all over it as well. It is definetly not new, and I was told it was ordered but they were having trouble getting it because they were being used up in rigging new boats http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif
Re: part # check (rayz379)
This will not do! The engine is a DI, it needs ALL the amperage it can get. ALL connections MUST fit tight and properly. This can also cause running issues. At our shop, we have proffesional crimp tools to shorten or make up the proper cables for the engines. I would ask them if they have 6 extra feet on their vehicles, if so, how's that workin' out? Use only what you need here, it will benefit you in the long run. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Re: part # check (rudetech1)
WOuld a new from BRP cable have crimp marks from zip ties (multiple marks) and dirt crammed down in the area where the cables are molded together?? They look wiped clean, but missed the area between the cables http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif I just took a measurement, take 3 1/2 feet two times....... I have a total of just under 7 feet of slack in the cable http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif
Re: part # check (rayz379)
All of mine are zip tied, a few times. The dirt means they have been hanging round' some where. Although, since BRP does not cover the engines in the boxes any more, it is possible to get a LOT of build up on some of the equipment. Usually the cables will be wrapped up in a plastic bag. Either way, you have too much cable for my taste! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Re: part # check (rudetech1)
I shortened up the cables, so now even though the tag shows the 90-175 hp carb motor only it will not matter??
Re: part # check (rayz379)
The part # show it to be a 300 hp rated . You should be o.k. Especially without the extra 6'! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif