1996 Johnson 150 Fast Strike Problems

My 1996 150 Fast Strike (J150GLEDB60LV) exhibited severe missing at 45 mph and after it was warmed up. We replaced the powerpack and the optical sensor (one of the mounting legs of the sensor was broken and may have contributed to the missing). After I got the boat back, I ran it for 10 minutes, fished for a 1/2 houg, ran it another 5 minutes, fished for 1/2 hour and when I started the motor it ran rough (at idle) and wouldn't get out of the hole. The motor would start, run rough for 20 to 30 seconds and quit (over and over again). My mechanic just replaced the stator and just called me to tell me that he cannot get the motor to keep its timing - he's got a timing light on it and it runs anywhere from 2 degrees to 34 degrees to 18 degrees - it's all over the map. Any ideas what might be causing this?
Thanks,
Hurt'n in Jersey

I'd say you lost the key on the crankshaft that keeps the flywheel in place. then pressure from the nut is keeping the flywheel on.

Huh? Is you joshing me?
Jersey Boy

If the timing is that erratic, then there is a connection or a ground problem, a cracked. loose, or broken timing wheel, or a faulty new component.


Are your new components BRP factory items with a one year parts and labor warranty, or aftermarket items?

I'm pretty sure my mechanic gets BRP/New product as I had a conversation about that very topic before he started the work.

BTW... Champion NMan - I owe you an apology. One of my other buds came up with the same suggestion you did - he thinks the key maybe broken or bent and that the flywheel might be wobbling.

Hurt'n in Jersey

Your motor does not use a flywheel key. It has 5 bolts holding it to the crankshaft face and a roll pin. The flywheel has nothing to do with timing on your particular motor.

Thanks, Seahorse...any other ideas then?
John

Replace the OIS sensor, possibly the encoder wheel itself. This controls the timing on the engine. If these do not do it, the power pack has a deteriorated circut board and is letting the timing jump around. The encoder wheel and the OIS sensor are the cheapest and the easiest components to replace. If you replace the power pack first, replace the OIS sensor with it. The sensor gets the voltage from the pack.A new pack will take out an old OIS sensor. Make sure all the grounds are tight. Clean the terminals, check the power pack ground at the mounting screw,clean it, make it tight. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Rudetech1
Is the OIS the optical sensor or some other sensor? We had already replaced both the powerpack and the optical sensor prior to discovering that the stator was bad (it was affecting one bank of 3 cylinders).
Thanks,
J

OOOPS, forgot that part. Yes it is the optical sensor. You need to check the wheel , it may have a crack or is too tight and deforming when torqued down. Have you checked the battery connections? They need to be clean and tight on the battery and the engine.

Yep sorry http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif , I had a BB V6 on the brain when I replied!!! Sorry for the bad info, I'll send myself to the principals office and take a time out for the weekend, the Sun has done fried my brain!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif

This must be Friday!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/roll.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/roll.gif

RudeTech;
Just wanted you to know that, when all was said and done, my mechanic discovered that the problem was a coil controlling the 2 and 5 cylinders - it was firing twice (to each cylinder) simultaneously! No wonder the timing was off...we replaced the coil and the O/B is working just fine.

Many thanks for your thoughts and ideas.

John in Jersey