skeg guard question for don

Hi Don,
Been a while.... I noticed that you have mentioned on other threads that you do not recommend a bolt on skeg replacement/guard
for boats that do over 55 mph, which my and most bass boats are capable of. I lost the bottom part of my skeg. It didn't break parallel to the gear case but rather on a bit of an angle.
I managed to keep roughly 2/3 of the length of the leading edge of the skeg, and the otherwise "clean" break sort of moves aft on an upward angle towards the prop.
I have plenty of "meat" left to bolt on an aftermarket, stainless skeg replacement, such as a Skegard, and the remainder of the stock skeg seems to be sound.
Why is it not a good idea to use this option, and isn't welding sort of a risk as well, in terms of potentially ruining seals and bearings in the gear box, not to mention
possible weld failure and subsequent loss of the "added on" skeg section.

thanks as always!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hookahawg

... and isn't welding sort of a risk as well, in terms of potentially ruining seals and bearings in the gear box, not to mention
possible weld failure and subsequent loss of the "added on" skeg section.

thanks as always!

---

The primary reasons that I do not recommend SKEG REPAIRS on boats that travel over 55 MPH are listed above in your quote (you essentially answered yor own question).

The most CRITICAL reason is that the skeg is (by it's design) the LATERAL stabilizer for the gearcase at high speeds. Loss of ANY portion of the skeg (whether welded, bolted, screwed, etc) can have DISASTROUS affects on manueverability and stability.

Additionally, any "bolt-on" component (regardless of the "shape" of the hardware) will leave abnormalities in the running surface, which can result in an AIR BUBBLE forming behind the abnormality. Not only does this cause cavitation (burning of the surface), if the air bubble becomes large enough to shed from the surface and enters the prop, it can result in gearcase BLOWOUT (which often results in an abrupt swapping of ends of the boat or spin). Not a pleasant (and certainly not a SAFE) experience. :eek:

Thanks Don. I appreciate and fully respect your knowledge on any and all marine engine issues, as well, I fully understand that a complete skeg is essential for proper and safe boat performance.
That said, I have searched high and low on the web and I just can't seem to find any reports on "failed" bolt on replacement skegs during normal operation. I have read reports where where people have hit
obstacles with a bolt on in place at various speeds, with resulting damage similar to hitting something with the original skeg in place, but I haven't heard of any issues while just running down the lake as per with
original equipment in place. I don't like the idea of welding "cast" anything, and I'm looking for an economical option to having the gear case replaced on my lower unit.....btw, l/u was just replaced last year following an underwater "bump"..:ohwell: thanks again.

I agree 100% with Don on this one.Not worth the risk on a faster hull especially one that surfaces props.The skeggaurd will multipy the leverage put on your skeg.

Thank you gentlemen, should I consider rewelding the portion of the skeg that came off? I still have it. I really would like to not have to change the gear case again.
thanks

Any chance you could post a picture of the damage to the skeg?

thanks so much Don! A good friend of mine has offered to weld the skeg. He is certified on nuclear reactors and a welding teacher, so I'm not worried
about his abilities. I need to "cold work" the 2 parts to straighten them out before rejoining, and I intend to do a florescent penetrant inspection on both parts
to ensure no cracks are present prior to welding. I have attached a couple pics. Let me know what you think. CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH!!
Attachment 55892Attachment 55893

I know this isn't what you want to hear... but I wouldn't even CONSIDER welding that skeg, or attempting to repair it.

By the book... you need a bare case assembly, and need to have your components transferred into it, and set up properly (shimmed). If you have insurance.... this is a good time to contact the claims department.

Propshaft runout should also be checked before proceeding. :wink:

Thanks Don...:crying: