Printable View
The switch used to change from auto-empty-recirc broke this week, on an '05 521VX. Picked up the replacement part from Cabelas on the way back from the lake. Just wondering if there is anything "interesting" to watch for when replacing it. Trying to prevent that moment when you realize you need an extra set of hands.
It's not to hard, hardest part is getting the cable off the old one and on the new one. But other than that it's pretty easy.
Does the cable try to run and hide down the hole? Guess that is my biggest concern...losing it back inside the boat somewhere.
No it is more like a break cable on a bicycle, pretty easy to do. Take your time and it will go smooth, should take about 10 minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by dtrs5kprs
Thank you. Can see the little brass end down inside where the selector snapped off, but have not had everything apart yet to see the cable. Pulled the screws while I was still at the lake and stopped when I felt the tension from the cable push back at me. Dealer in Branson West was closed when I stopped by, was happy Cabelas had one in stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pole Bender
Ok...is there a trick for getting the old switch out? Have all the various screws out ( 2 on switch, 6 on trim panel). Switch will come partially out, then feels like it is hung up.
Kinda tilt/cant the switch to get it out and kinda push the lower cable end "in"
Thanks to all. Got it eventually via the application of additional force. Was about 70% sure I would end up cracking the trim piece. Opened the hole up a bit before buttoning everything back up, have to mind the screw holes if you are going to do that. Should make the next time simpler. It was very simple once out, just kind of a hold your mouth right deal coming out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos H
Guess if the livewell parts are the ones wearing out first then the boat is fishing pretty well...
That little contol handle is going to break again. or you can read this post i made in april of 2012, and fix it for good. PM me if you have any questions.
You can get a new control handle assembly from Ranger or flo contol for about $16.00 and all the other parts if you want to replace it all, but the valve will break again at some point, or you can fix the control handle/valve where it will not break again with about 30 minutes work and $10.00 or so in hardware and epoxy. I had along post on this problem that did not survive the move to the new forum so here it is again- my livewell switch broke and I have found many others in the forum that have had the same problem. The switch is not built strong enough to handle the required force or torque to move the control cable if the cable gets a little stiff and they all stiffen over time. The livewell contol switch has a plastic handle(the part you turn) that is molded to a 3/8" plastic rod. this plastic rod has a brass knurled insert that has a square end that actually locks in to an actuator arm and and causes the cable to the livewell valve to move through its positions. The control handle always breaks where the 3/8" rod is attached to the control handle. I upgraded my valve by replacing the plastic 3/8' rod with a piece of 3/8" aluminium tubing, then pinning and epoxying the control handle to the aluminium rod. Here are the steps to make this repair and upgrade.
1) Remove 2 phillips screws from the livewell contol valve, pull the valve control through the hole and disconnect the broken contol assembly from the cable
2) remove the screw that attaches the livewell contol arm to the brass square ended insert
3) break the plastic 3/8" rod or cut it away from the brass knurled insert with a dremel tool
4) cut a piece of 3/8" aluminum tbg(from hardware store) approx 1 5/8" long
5) drill a 3/8" hole the center of the broken control handle
6) epoxy the brass knurled insert into the aluminium tbg and alow to dry over night
7) drill a 1/8" hole through the tbg and knurled insert and drive a 1/8" x 3/8" long drivepin into the 1/8" hole
8) slide the aluminium tbg through the contol handle so that the tbg with square end of knurled insert protrudes
1 1/4" from back of control handle
9) drill a 1/8" hole through/across the control valve handle and aluminium tbg
10) drive a 1/8" x 1 15/16" brass rod (cut to length from a piece if brass rod from hardware store) through control handle and aluminium tbg.
11) epoxy the handle to the aluminium tbg and the brass drive rod Wait over night epoxy to cure
12) reassemble valve, attach to cable and reenstall.
what you now have is a lot stronger than a new control and will not break due to a stiff cable. http://www.bbcboards.net/images/misc/paperclip.png Attached Thumbnailshttp://www.bbcboards.net/attachments...needed-001.jpg http://www.bbcboards.net/attachments...needed-008.jpg http://www.bbcboards.net/attachments...032012-035.jpg http://www.bbcboards.net/attachments...032012-045.jpg http://www.bbcboards.net/attachments...032012-041.jpg
added to maintenance, thanks
Nicely done and explained. Kept the old piece because I thought there had to be a better way and was planning to tinker. Too much plastic as supplied. You saved me a bunch of time and some $ no doubt. Too bad they don't make one in stainless. Would add to the cool factor as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by basscfo
Wow. You know how many of those things I broke? Thanks for an alternative.
I cant believe it but I broke another one. I used the repair method that basscfo mentioned. Worked perfect. Thank You!!!!!:beers:
Great info. I broke one on my previous boat and the dealer took care of it for me.
If the one on this boat breaks I'll replace it like the one basscfo made.
My livewell fills up with about 4" to 6" of water when I have it set on empty. My other boats would stay almost all the way dry.
If I turn that knob any further I know it will break. Maybe the guts need replaced on the valve?
Thanks
Probaly coming in the overflow port.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but my search didn't yield anything newer. These livewell controls are still breaking, but as hard as it is to get the old one out of that hole with the cable still attached, it's paramount that you know going in: it WILL come out of you wiggle it enough! I had given up before finding and reading this thread. My Ranger dealer got me the part, and with the help of a good penlight I was able to see the hang up and wiggle it free. They couldn't leave a millimeter of free space to get it out? Who designs these things? :confused2: