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My 225HPDI is coming up on 10 hrs......just curious what all the dealer does during the 10hr service. If its just changing the LU lube, water separating filter, and plugs I can do that myself. Do they do any computer tweaking or any other "special" adjustments? My nearest dealer is about 1hr away and if its not required I may not do it.
Thanks,
Why not do it? It is still free, right?
I purchased a Skeeter back in 2003 with a Yamaha on it and the 10hr check-up for the motor was part of the purchase. No extra charge. The mechanic told me that this gives a "qualified" mechanic an opportunity to look at the motor and tell if there is a problem or defect that needs attention before it turns catastrophic and cost the company a bunch of $ in warranty repairs. http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
Don't know if its free or not. I bought the boat long distance and will have serviced at a nearby dealer. Just curious what all they do to it.
They do several things but I think the most important is that they change the LU oil. It's my understanding that Yamaha uses a break-in oil in the LU that's not meant to be used for long periods of time.
When I had my 10hr service on my 08 HPDI they changed the LU oil, at least one fuel filter, changed plugs, and checked the ECU for any codes. They (C&O Marine) may have even done more than that but those are the items I know they addressed.
Roy, Did they charge for this of was it covered under warranty?? Its not that big of deal to pay a couple hundred to protect a $15K motor, but under warranty would be nice. Did you buy your boat from C&O?
Do it yourself, it is not free unless you got that deal from the dealer. Plugs easy enough to change, lu oil a breeze. Grease your fittings. Take prop off and check for line etc.
they also readjust oil pump to get it off break in setting. if they dont make sure they do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishhead210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they also readjust oil pump to get it off break in setting. if they dont make sure they do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I asked my dealer about that. He told me that the computer controlled that and after 10 hours it made the adjustment. This is on a series 2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishhead210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they also readjust oil pump to get it off break in setting. if they dont make sure they do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not true. It should not have been adjusted and is set from the factory to where it should stay from day one. This can be verified through Yamaha. You will not find in any print where this should be adjusted during break-in or per Yamaha. (They will however look to make sure it is set properly).
Change the plugs
Change LU Oil
Grease Fittings (Including Prop Shaft Zerk)
I would also change out the 10 Micron Filter.
You can tell how she is running by reading your plugs. Look for
a nice golden/brown color. If they look at all lean or rich, a trip to the dealer would not hurt to have them look it over.
If you can easily handle this its probably worth doing it yourself.
is true. it should be checked and readjusted if excessive oil is being used. it has adjustments on the linkage rod for a reason. if it should stay the way it came from japan it would be a non adjustable rod. it should be adjusted after break in if needed. (they need to look to make sure it is adjusted properly) 10 micron filter has a life of 50 hrs
That service is not free unless you have an agreement from the owner or manager from the business.Yamaha does not pay for it directly.
JOHN202
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishhead210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is true. it should be checked and readjusted if excessive oil is being used. it has adjustments on the linkage rod for a reason. if it should stay the way it came from japan it would be a non adjustable rod. it should be adjusted after break in if needed. (they need to look to make sure it is adjusted properly) 10 micron filter has a life of 50 hrs
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I agree the linkage should be looked at, and it is instructed per Yamaha to do exactly that. My point was it should not be adjusted to increase oil delivery during break in. It should have been verified and looked at during pre-delivery and should not move from the factory setting. You are correct it is adjustable for a reason  and in this case the reason is; it is adjusted or set from the factory to be verified by a tech, not adjusted to deliver more or less oil by discretion. Of course if it was not adjusted properly from the factory, or someone else, it should be properly set. Either way on a warranted engine I would only let a certified Yamaha Tech adjust it. There is only ONE SETTING and it is 10 thousands clearance between the arm and stop. If it was set this way at the factory and verified during delivery then it can not move.
IRONBANKS; the computer or ECU does not re-calibrate after 10 hours. It delivers the same amount of oil before and after 10 hours. This is an urban legend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reata210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IRONBANKS; the computer or ECU does not re-calibrate after 10 hours. It delivers the same amount of oil before and after 10 hours. This is an urban legend.
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Then my dealer fed me a load of BS. I tend to believe you as my oil use has not changed since break that I could tell. If this is the case then why does the engine not need double oil during break in?
thats why there is a 10 hr sevice to readjust the factory breakin settings.my dealer did nothing to the oil pump on the 10 hr serv. thats why so many people with Japanese engines are having oil related problems because the dealers are leaving them at the factory specs. i have fouled three sets of plugs in 40 hours of use before i set the oil pump linkage gap at .014 and its better but still oiling at 40:1. before the gap was at .035 and was burning a gal of oil to every 30 gal. fuel. the dealers would rather it run rich than lean while under warranty.
I did my own 10 hour and now have 40 hours on the engine. I changed the plugs at 10 hours (that were fine) and have not changed them since. My plugs look great and are burning right on. I bought a set this season but did not put them in since the old ones look great. I'll run them until 50 and change them every 40-50 there after. Sounds like many dealers increase oil delivery during break-in. A quick look at your plugs will tell you what needs to be done if anything. Its no secret though, the 3.3Âs drink some oil. I seem to be between 40 and 50:1. IÂm happy with that.
Another thing I would recommend doing often is LU oil. I had a little over 20 hours on oil I just took out and it was a bit dark for my liking, not burnt, but a little too oxidized. I am now going to change it every 10 hours. I used to do my 130 every 20.
L/U oil every 10 hrs???? That is WAY too often. Even if you're using generic gear oil you should only have to change it once or twice a year. The only time you would need to change it more often would be after you had work done on it to make sure it isn't getting a lot of metal shavings or water in it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by headhigh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">L/U oil every 10 hrs???? That is WAY too often. Even if you're using generic gear oil you should only have to change it once or twice a year. The only time you would need to change it more often would be after you had work done on it to make sure it isn't getting a lot of metal shavings or water in it.
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Not too often on a 3.3 HPDI. I use Yamaha Gear Oil and others have said the same and agree the 3.3 HPDI is hard on LU oil and change more often. On my 92 130 (basically same LU you have) I would agree...once or twice a year. The 3.3 is a different animal and the proof is in how the oil looks after 20 hours. I would go a season on my 130 and it would come out looking very clean. I could go longer but I like to see oil come out looking pretty clean not oxidized or discolored. The LU oil in a 3.3 HPDI seems to breaks down much quicker. It takes no time at all to change and I can keep good tabs on it. IMO it is cheap insurance. If youÂre changing dirty gear oil it is too late. Gear oil should be changed while the properties are still in good shape and the oil looks relatively clean while knowing the inside looks clean as well. http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
For what its worth I have been having the oil discussion with my dealer as well as other techs and getting all kinds of answers. What I finaly did is call a Yamaha Master Tech and was told that the oil linkage needs to be adjusted after breakin. The computer has no control of oil. He would not tell me the setting but did say if you are burning 25 to one it was not adjusted at break in.
Thanks for the info....I'll talk to my dealer about it.