Winterizing a YAMAHA 175 HPDI Engine

I put this together for a friend and thought someone here might find it useful.

• Get out your YAMAHA owners manual and review the maintenance section. It is available on-line if you have misplaced your copy. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/ou....aspx
• You will need: Sta-Bil Marine (blue), Fogging oil spray, distilled water, grease gun w/marine grease, good set of rabbit ears (outboard motor flusher), baking soda, tube of dielectric grease, gear lube, and gear lube pump.
• Add marine Sta-Bil (blue) to your tank in accordance with the directions on the bottle for a full tank of gas.
• Top off your gas tank with mid grade gas. Gas looses up to 3% of its octane rating in a three month period, so this mid grade top off will help combat that problem.
• Add the appropriate amount of ring free. (do this at every fill-up)
• Remove the engine cowling and prop.
• Fogging:
Option #1 – My preferred method. Install rabbit ears and run engine in gear to ensure stabilizer is throughout the fuel system. This will take about ten minutes cycling between idle and 2000 rpms. Never walk away from an outboard when it is running on rabbit ears. Turn off the engine and pull all spark plugs. Using the straw attachment spray fogging oil around inside each cylinder. Hold the straw attachment with your free hand. I have read several stories about the straw coming off and going into the combustion chamber. Turn over the engine (plugs out) for a couple seconds and then spray each cylinder again. Clean the plugs, check for wear, and check the plug gap. (.059” -.063”) Replace if necessary. Reinstall spark plugs.
Option #2 – Remove the front plastic housing around the intake. With the motor running spray the Yamaha fogging spray into each intake until excessive smoke appears from the exhaust and the engine almost stalls. When completed, turn off the engine. This method has been criticized by some mechanics as the cause of injector problems.
• Drain the fuel/water separator filter on the engine. (Clear plastic assembly) Replace element every two years or if contamination is visible. (directions in owners manual)
• Drain the VST tank on the engine. (Vapor Separator Tank) The aluminum tank on the port side forward after the fuel/water separator with a single screw. Take that screw out to drain. A paper coffee cup and rag are handy here to catch the gas.
** Do not cycle the engine after draining the fuel/water separator filter and VST. Make sure that you pump the primer bulb next spring prior to use to fill the fuel/water separator filter and the VST tank.
• Inspect fuel lines, wiring, hoses, etc for aging or wear.
• Change the gearbox lube. Tilt engine so the drain is at its lowest point. It requires 33 oz of lube, so a quart is not enough. The manual pump that fits on a quart bottle is the best tool for this. The tubes of lube make a big mess.
• Clean the battery terminals and all connections with baking soda and a brush. Do one terminal at a time so you do not cross any wires, and be diligent about cleaning real well. Reassemble with a coating of dielectric grease. Many hard to diagnose problems start with corroded battery terminals or cables.
• Check the fluid level in all batteries. Add distilled water to bring the level up to the bottom of the fill tubes if necessary. Do not overfill. Check battery level monthly during storage.
• Fill the two stroke oil reservoir to the full line.
• Grease all zirk fittings. Cowling latches, steering, etc. (locations in owners manual)
• Put some grease on the throttle linkage at the engine, the prop shaft, and the ends of the tilt/trim rods.
• Reinstall the prop and cowling.
• Inspect anode on bottom of engine and the ground wire.
• Plug in the battery chargers. The new on-board units are great because they only charge as needed. A low amperage battery tender can do the same thing. Just make sure every battery is on charge.

In addition, I remove everything from the boat - everything. Wax and vacuum, then cover for the winter.

In the spring, pump the primer bulb to fill the fuel/water separator filter and the VST tank. Start your engine in the driveway on rabbit ears before your first outing to purge the fogging oil and ensure a smooth start at the ramp.

Mike (1kickerfish@gmail.com)


Modified by kicker-fish at 2:19 PM 12/19/2008

Excellent, especially for the northern people!

DO NOT SPARY ANY FOGGING OIL INTO ANY EFI/HPDI MOTOR THROUGH INTAKE!!!

here is the yami way of doing everything right

http://switchbait.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts...e.doc

I personally wouldnt want any parts that are submerged in gas to sit in open air for any amount of time. Why leave the the VST tank empty?

how are you to fog the motor if you just spray fogging oil through spark plug holes you are only getting the cylinders?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassbait &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how are you to fog the motor if you just spray fogging oil through spark plug holes you are only getting the cylinders?</TD></TR></TABLE>


that is where you want the fogging oil

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chevy II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally wouldnt want any parts that are submerged in gas to sit in open air for any amount of time. Why leave the the VST tank empty?</TD></TR></TABLE>


because if no gas is in there it will nut gum up

What about the crank?

fine, because of oil in there

crank oil does not burn off

Thanks