OX66 blinky Test harness

Can anyone tell me where I can aquire the test harness to pull the codes from OX66 sys. If not, then maybe someone can shed some light on my problem.

Engine: 1998 Saltwater series II 250 EFI. Problem's: I just purchased this engine and have only ran it a few times. The first time I ran it, ran great for about 45 minutes. During this time, it had an occassional miss in the engine above 4500 RPM. After this time, tried to get back on plane and did not have any power to do so. Motor had tons of power up to 2800-3200 rpm then it would just drop off. Not enough power to get boat on plane. Motor Idled fine. The second time I ran the motor, ran about 26 miles at 4800 rpm with no problems. Shut the engine off for about 3 hrs, then started the return trip home. When tried to get on plane, engine would cut in and out. then finally on plane. After on plane, engine would cut in and out. This went on for about 8 miles, then the engine RPM started to roll back. would not exceed 4300 RPM @wot. When got back to the ramp, noticed that the motor was Idling @ approx 900rpm in gear and over 1600rpm out of gear. Took motor home directly and put on the muffs. fired the engine up and it was still Idling excesivly high. Let engine set for about 3 hours, fired it up and now it is idling normal. have not had it back out since. Can any Yama gurus out there shed some light on this PLZ. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif

I am not a guru but they will be here shortly. Your motor has several problems in my eyes fuel filter, fuel pumps high pressure fuel filter and priming bulb, plugs, all have to be addressed. We will get you going that is one fine motor. http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif

The diagnostic indicator and test harness is availiable from your local dealer.

Well, I did check the plugs, They where about .013 closed. Re gapped them to .039..... Checked out the fuel pumps today, found the top fuel pump weeping fuel out of the weep hole. The other 2 appeared to be fine. Have tested all sensors, all are checking good. So, once I have the fuel pumps replaced, then I will be able to determine if they where the cause or not. I do have a blinky harness on the way, actually found one. Going to open up the fuel vapor housing tomorrow and check out the fuel pump screen. I did check the fuel pressure at idle (30 psi @ idle). I was having a thought, Would it be wise to disable the 3 pumps on the motor and go with a low pressure inline electric fuel pump. Would this be wise or not a good Idea at all. (55excl) thanks for the info. One last thing, How do I get the anodes out of the cylinder heads with out removing the heads. Wanting to ensure that all salt and sedement are completely flushed from the engine. Real leary of this since motor has been in salt all of its life.

I am not real up on Yama, but is the Saltwater II series EFI motors the same as a V-Max non hpdi???????

Replace all three low pressure fuel pumps they are $30.00 each. Do not take high pressure pump a part yet see if the low pressure fuel pumps are your problem. DO NOT DISABLE LOW PRESSURE FUEL PUMPS. Order a service manual $70.00 this is what dealers have anodes are easy to take out and should be replaced every year in salt water.

UPDATE:

Pumps have been replaced with no results. Tonight I found that there is no spark on the 1, 3, 5 Cylinders. After about an hour of messing with it, #5 cylinder started firing, but real weak and not consistant. Removed the Flywheel, stator, and pulser coil. These are all actually shooting good by the book. I did find big blobs of rust on each of the six pads on the pulser coil. REAL thick. I am hoping that this could be a cause of my problem. Also found corrosion in the connector for the Pulser. Will know more tomorrow

Is that the power pack?

pulser coil is the same thing as the trigger on other earlier models. This on just does not move. This connects to the CDI computer. Anyway, after cleaning the coil and the connector, regained spark back to all cylinders. B4 I removed and cleaned everything, the cylinders that where firing would barely jump a .025 gap on the tester. Now that everything is clean and back together, spark is on all cylinders and jumping nearly 1/4 inch gap. Now I think I have all my fire back.
Will try it out again soon to find out if this was the problem.

chuck

Keep me posted.

Ok, $1000000 question. What is the yellow wire with white stripe that comes out of the bottom of the CDI unit on the small plug. It comes out and goes right back in. Has a disconnect terminal in the middle. What does this do. Long story short, found mine broke in half inside the terminal. Terminal corroded in half.

waterdog

Dam salt water... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/devil.gif No idea of what that wire is.

Just fix it.

Too funny, I did fix it, but you also must understand, that I am a seeker of information. When I find things that are wrong, I like to know their function so I may determine if it is the root cause of one or all of my problems. I did learn one thing, with it disconnected it runs like crap. Spit and sputtering at Idle and no power at all. But yes, I did repair it.

Sounds like a O2 sensor wire to the computer.

I have since found out what this wire does. Dont really know the purpose, but here is what it does: When disconnected, it sets the cdi to a default setting of some sort. It locks in a preset ignition timing reguardless of throttle position. It also causes the injectors to function in groups versus individually. Also makes all cylinders fire. This also cause the motor not to have the ability to run wot due to the locked in timing setting. So I think this would explain the high idle and also the roll back of the rpm's. I now believe that I have more than just a single problem. I am hoping that the corrosion that I found in the pulser coil connector will fix the missing and cutouts. Funny thing is, the wires I found corroded in the conector all went to cylinders 1, 3, and 5 have them all cleaned up and now I am ready for a test run again. Will know more saturday. If all goes well, I will be fishing, if not, I will be back on here with my issues. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/praying.gif

You can buy a winky blinky at shipyard island marine or lots of other places

It your timing is locked, there will be a computer reason for it. Winky will tell you what it is and you can then check that subsystem and fix it.

Thx ghind, I have ordered a blinky, but they are on back order until may. I have ran the boat since I have repaired this yellow and white wire. The high Idle and rpm roll back has gone away. It seems that I had multiple problems though. Everything is fine up to 4500 rpm. After that, it is missing considerably. Sounds like 1 maybe even 2 cylinders are missing.(cutting in and out) I am actually starting to think that the charge coils on the stator are bad or the pulser coill is going bad. When blinky arrives it should show me this.

Let us know.