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I want to glue a new transducer in the bilge. In order to do that I am going to have to remove the oil tank for a few days. Will that cause a problem if I remove it? Is there anything I need to know when I hook it up again? Will it cause air in the line? This may be a stupid question but I didn't want to get into anything that would cause it not to work.
Yes, you will have air in the lines. need to purge all the air out when you hook up the hoses again.
Is it possible to leave the hoses hooked up and just hang the tank out of your way ??????????
IF you disconnect ANY of the lines from the remote oil tank, you will need to bleed the system.
See the following post for instructions:
http://www.bbcboards.net/zerot...esent
Don,
Another question concerning this topic........is it normal for the motor oil mounted tank to drain itself down over time to the level of the fill port at the top of the tank or is this a sign that the check valve needs replacing ? Seems that gravity reduces the full level to this port.
For the top of the tank to drain down, air would have to be getting into the tank. I would think most likely a leaky o ring on the cap.
Try this; Drain most of the oil out of the engine mounted tank. Suck it out with a turkey baster. leave the cap off and start the engine. The remote tank should pressurize and refill the engine tank. This will purge out the remote fill line and get any trapped air out of the line. Inspect the o ring on the cap to make sure its ok. Retighten the cap well after you are sure there is NO air gap left in the tank.
Recheck periodically. If it is still doing it, replace the o ring.
Did all that and then some on a buddies 250 EFI, just thought there might be some new that I haven't heard about yet.
He just put a new tank on it after the output nipple cracked and that's been the results since. I'm gonna have him bring it over this weekend and I'll dig into it in person. I've just been feeding him info on the phone as to what to do and look for. We'll see what happens this weekend when I get my hands on it.
Gary:
Disconnect the pressure line from the Crankcase Pressure Check Valve.
You can pressure test on this line at 5-9 psi (NO HIGHER THAN 9 PSI, PLEASE). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
A gearcase pressure tester works great.
If it holds pressure consistently for 15 minutes (no leakdown noted).... replace the brass "tee" fitting in the oil line (near the engine mounted oil tank).
A change was made to this tee fitting (now 4 psi checkvalve) to address the "disappearing oil syndrome" when no other leaks are present.
The older 2 psi checkvalve MAY open under "sitting" conditions if the remote tank is low enough (below the engine tank) to create a siphoning effect. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Morning Don,
Better send me the new style 4 PSI check valve.......I know it's only 6 AM, but I grabbed my cup of coffee and performed the pressure test as described and you called it right on........she does leak down. Probably doesn't help that my motor is mounted so high, bout 28" from the tee to the top of the onboard tank........LOL.
IM sent with order info........... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Thanks again for your priceless support...... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
Gary:
You've got an IM response. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Gary:
You've got an IM response. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
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Replied to your IM............ http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/glasses.gif
You've probably found the problem.... but I'd double check to be certain.
I will be in and out of the office this week, as I'm going in for surgery Wednesday.
Rhonda will get you set up with whatever parts are needed, though. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif