2 stroke oil leakage

Just bought a used rig with a 2000 225 EFI ProMax Super Magnum on the back. I'm starting to go over things before we hit the water. It was a 700 mile run to get home from where I purchaced the boat. All went well. When I trimed the motor down the next day to pull the cover and start learning I noticed a fair amount of what looks like green 2 stroke oil running down the skeg. Pulling the prop to take a better look the oil was pooled up, maybe 1/4 cup, and I assum had come down through the exhaust. I ordered the factory books but it will be a few weeks before I see them. Any thoughts out there?

Could it be effects from winterizing?? I am sure Don will be along soon to offer REAL advice http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

I was thinking the same thing but also the possibility that there are poppets at each cylinder intake that could be leaking. I was used to fogging by blowing it in to each carb. I'm not sure yet what the procedure is to winterize (fog?)a EFI yet. I can't even say if this is a 2.5 or a 3.0. Am I in the wrong section? I can see I'll need help on a bunch of stuff like what do I need to get the sportmaster hooked up to a garden hose so I can run a compression check. For that matter proper procedure to run the compression check. Motor warm, plug wires all to ground, throttle w/o, need those books.

Could be a lowerunit seal leaking ( high performance merc gear lube is dark green in color)

Recommend:

-Provide serial number for proper engine identification.
-Sample lube that's leaking, place a drop or two on WHITE PAPER.
-Sample ENGINE OIL and GEAR LUBE on the same white paper.
-Compare colors.... determine WHICH you're seeing.

Also, would strongly recommend having the gearcase pressure tested, just to confirm that there's no leak. ALL fluid must be removed from the gearcase BEFORE pressure testing (and refill with ONLY Mercury or Quicksilver High-Performance Gear Lube).

It is possible that this is residual fogging oil... but it's better to be SAFE (than sorry). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

I would defiantly agree on the lower unit. That’s what I thought at first glance. I ordered a new Mityvac yesterday that will do both vacuum & pressure and will adapt that to check. What pressure / vacuum should I check at 16? The Sportmaster is about 1 1/2 years old and the gear lube has about 1 hour on it. I have the receipt for both. Now this is not to say it's bullet proof. I'll compare fluids this weekend. It doesn't smell like gear oil, at least not what I'm used to here at the shop. Keep in mind I've been running a 115 Yamaha Jet the last 10 years so it was before this when I worked with a prop. (Yes a Merc)
The outboard is # 0T069196 / 225PMX TM.
Don, Thanks for all you do! I would like to get what I need to flush if you could shoot me some #'s + anything else I should keep on hand ( gaskets, seals etc.) I'll be looking for endurance & efficiency out of this engine, not speed, so it probably has the wrong lower unit for me. That will most likely change once I get used to her. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/devil.gif It's on a 99 XB2003.

Tests must be performed with the gearcase DRY (no lube in it).

PRESSURE tests should be performed at various pressures (such as 2, 6, 9, 14.5 psi). Do NOT exceed 15 psi on this gearcase (many other gearcases should not exceed 12 psi... these instructions are SPECIFICALLY for ONLY the gearcase listed in this post).

Vaccum would be checked at 2-5" hg. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Thanks for the info. I pulled the bottom plug behind the prop & found no gasket; the top had a plastic gasket in place. Looks to me like this was the problem. The pressure held for over an hour. Vacuum held the same. The gear oil looked pretty good with little milky ness only at the end of the flow. I’ll need extra gaskets to keep on hand.

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