Taking the 300x out this weekend after rebuild ?'s

Thanks to Don for helping me out with the rebuild on my 01 promax 300x, I fired it up today for the first time, on the hose, and everything looks and sounds good. The initial problems was a hole in the #6 piston and the rod and pin pulled out the bottom of the piston, pin still attached, my problem is I still don't know what caused it and am worried about running it at speed. The motor has new reeds, the thermostats are checked and work properly, injectors checked by Don and were good, spark plugs are right, I checked the vacuum on the diaphram fuel pump at idle and it checked good, checked fuel pressure on the high pressure fuel rail at idle and it was good. I was told I should index the flywheel and check the timing and also check the fuel pressure at WOT. I plan do check timing before taking it out (this is to check that the computer is telling the coil to fire at the right time) and I will have the fuel pressure gauges hooked up after the diaphram pump and on the high pressure rail and check pressure at speed. Anything else I need to do? I really can't afford to have this happen again any time soon.
(This is for starboard motor)

Now for Port motor, I have had running issues with this motor since I got the boat last August and neither myself or my previous mechanic could figure out why. I can't get the motor to rev over 6k rpm, starboard would easily hit 6800 with throttle to spare. The motor seems to run rich per the plugs. While doing the rebuild on the starboard motor I went ahead and got new reeds for the port also and checked the thermostats. All plugs fire when running at idle on the hose and no codes showing on the DDT. I was told to start pulling plug wires while under load to see if rpm's drop, does this need to be done at WOT (in gear and strapped to trailer) or do I just do it in gear at part throttle? Anything else to check on this motor? I am hoping the new reeds will solve some or all this motors problems.

Make sure you've verified all sync-n-link settings on your Starboard (rebuilt) engine.

Make ABSOLUTELY 100% CERTAIN THAT YOU SUPPLIED PRE-MIXED (50:1) FUEL TO THE ENGINE, and the engine is RUN ON 50:1 MIX UNTIL YOU ARE 100% CERTAIN THAT THERE IS NO AIR REMAINING IN THE OIL LINE BETWEEN OIL PUMP AND VST. Failure to follow this recommendation will result in CATASTROPHIC damage!

Follow the below recommendations for break-in (written for the Optimax- but a good guide for yours also):

http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=494837

For the PORT engine, make sure you've replaced the reeds with the SAME reeds used in the Starboard engine.

As I discussed with you on the phone, I STRONGLY recommend that you have your PORT ENGINE'S injectors cleaned/serviced/calibrated to MATCH those of your STB side engine. If they're in the same condition as those STB ones... that could easily account for the lack of top end you're experiencing. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Don, I did replace the reeds with the same ones, the injectors may have to wait a few months as this rebuild has killed my boating budget.
Question about the break-in, I did a manual prime of the oil pump x2 by way of turning the key and moving shifter in and out of forward gear. The manual says to not pre-mix the gas that by doing the pump prime that it also puts the computer back to a 2 hr break-in mode. Should I still use a pre-mix just to be safe? I have approx 75 gallons of gas in that tank but can't be sure exactly how much, if I am to pre-mix should I run on a remote tank?

Sorry- didn't have your serial numbers here at the house (and all I could "picture" were your pink-tipped Keihin Injectors).

If you've placed the engine in BREAK-IN mode, NO additional (premixed) oil is required.

Primary concern is for the initial priming of the system (ensuring that pre-mix is present when engine is initally fired off). Beyond that, the ECM will provide appropriate oil mixture for break-in.