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Don,
Bleed lines burnt through, awhile back I had the same problem on my old mod'd 225 EFI motor, now it's happening again on my mod'd 250 EFI motor http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mad.gif .
It's always at the bend in the tubing as it exits the cylinder side of the block on # 1 & 3, what's causing that ????????? It's all new tubing as well. I seems strange that it's happening again on this motor. Both motors were totally set up different from each other.
Are you sure you don't have intake porting too high, a lean TPS condition (your engine MAY require a richer setting than a non-modded engine) or perhaps ignition timing too high?
Those would be three of the more common causes..... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Don,
I'm going to give Eric Simon's a call today, he did my ECU's, and see what he thinks as well since he did the timing on them. I had my DDT with me when this happened and it's not due to a lean TPS setting. I actually set mine toward the rich side (around 1.05) to avoid the "LEAN SNEEZE" issue.
Be sure to report back..... there's obviously SOMETHING amiss(fire) here..... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/popcorn.gif
Don,
Spoke to Eric last night and I have to call him back today, but he didn't think it was timing related, he was sort of surprised to hear of my problem. My TPS is set at 1.09 (toward the rich side) which is good and the TPS ramps up nice and smooth to full throttle, fuel pressure at idle is 38 PSI, some have suggested that I need to crank up the pressure at idle to 48-50 PSI (don't know about that yet) and step it down as RPM's increase. My timing checked good, all the injectors are fresh & clean, no water in the fuel, hoses are all new, Stator checks out good on all bobbin's.........I'm running out of things to check................ http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif
The tubing I've use for the bleed lines (TYGON 404 Yellow Tubing) is not what Eric recommended. He's going to look up the part number for the tubing he uses today, it's a much thicker wall tubing than even the Merc OEM tubing and he say's he's never had any problems with it on burn through issues. The only weird thing about this issue of mine is that my last 225 EFI motor did the samething on the same cylinders (1 & 3) and they were totally different motors in everyway possible as to how they were mod'd, but the only thing they both had in common was the bleed hose used was the same type http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/embarassed.gif, but why is only #1 & #3 having issues http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif the bleed tubing on the port side still looks like new. I've even had protective spiral wrap over the tubing to protect it from rubbing on the back of the electric panel plate. #1 & #3 are the only cylinders that require a tight bend in the bleed tubing because of the electric panel, that's the only common denominator in this whole thing. Is there a 90 degree check valve fitting that would work better than the straight nipple thereby eliminating the bend in the tubing ????
A lot will depend upon "which" 3L EFI bleed system yours is based from. A picture of the Starboard Side bleed hoses/fittings might be helpful.
The later 3L "XB" engines utilized a 90 degree fitting (not a check valve), which was Part# 768431 (and is still available).
Earlier models utilized either straight fittings, or "double 90 degree" fittings (two nipples on the fitting).
Don,
Here is my current bleed line layout. I've located some 90 degree brass 1/16-27 elbows that I'm going to install. That will eliminate the bend in the tubing regardless of what type of tubing used. Note that the stock OEM fittings for this application are "NOT" check valves but rather nothing more than barbed hose fittings per the manual.
In the attached view from the manual, note that the manual is wrong for the starboard view, it calls out "ITEM 12" as a plug, not a barbed hose/tube fitting.
http://i38.tinypic.com/ab4aj8.jpg
Modified by Nikon Man at 7:05 AM 8/17/2010
I wonder if there is a possibility you custom midsection is creating a restriction or something on that side?
Morning Todd,
I don't think so because I had the same issue burning #1 & #3 bleed lines on my old mod'd 225 EFI before I made any changes to the Mid and went to a mod'd 250 EFI. Like I mentioned before, the only thing that I'm aware of right now that both motors on #1 & #3 had in common was the tight bend behind the electrical panel.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Nikon Man »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">[b]Don,
Here is my current bleed line layout. I've located some 90 degree brass 1/16-27 elbows that I'm going to install. That will eliminate the bend in the tubing regardless of what type of tubing used. Note that the stock OEM fittings for this application are "NOT" check valves but rather nothing more than barbed hose fittings per the manual.
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Is the block already tapped/drilled to 1/16 x 27 NPT? http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif
I seriously doubt it..... that's a whole that's nearly 5/16" in diameter.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by EuropeanAM »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Is the block already tapped/drilled to 1/16 x 27 NPT? http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif
I seriously doubt it..... that's a whole that's nearly 5/16" in diameter.
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Yes Don, those tapped holes in the block are 1/16-27 NPTF.........I know that as fact since I had to buy some pipe plugs for the holes in the cylinders when I was installing my bleed lines
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif Great! Just wanted to be sure.... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
The hose you should use is a NAPA # H174. Your TPI should be set at .94 -.96. The TPI also controls the timing . The ECU's are set up to run with the stock settings.
Eric, great talking to you today and thank you again for your helpful advice. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by simonmotorsports »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">The hose you should use is a NAPA # H174. Your TPI should be set at .94 -.96. The TPI also controls the timing . The ECU's are set up to run with the stock settings. </td></tr></table>
Thanks, Eric! This information may be helpful to others as well..... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
For those who may need it, here's the NAPA catalog page for the "H174" hose for your dealer to reference. My dealer said there is no such hose so I showed him this and he changed his mind and dug a little deeper and found it..........
http://i33.tinypic.com/25q3z21.jpg