overheating e-tec

my new 60 is overheating on me http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mad.gif it dident pump much water right out of the box and after going into safe mode a couple of times i checked the water pump and found the center of the impeller melted.....here is a pic

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/6620/parts0185wj.jpg

i then installed a new impeller and cup and ran it again...it still overheated....here is the impeller after about 15 minutes

http://img437.imageshack.us/img437/6089/parts0174ow.jpg

called brp and talked to a guy named Brent,he told me to put a complete kit in it,which i did. It hasent overheated since then (2 trips) it pumps more water that it did before but still not as much as the other 2 cyl e-tec engines i have run.Any one else run across this? E60DPLSDA 05126140


thanks in advance for your input

I have not seen any problems. Perhapes the old pump housing was allowing hot exhaust gas to travel down to the impeller. I would clear the history of the temps and run a few more times and see what the temp history is, after a few runs.

I am assuming that it was only the top side that burned, and not the bottom, is that correct?

If so, then it is possible that the air bleed hole was plugged up, most likely in the plastic housing were glue holding the upper o-ring was generously applied and restricted or stopped up the passageway.

Seahorse Im just wondering how can the air bleed hole cause this if it is pluged? I always thought that if this hole was pluged it would run to cool at idle. I know im looking deep into this but I like to learn something new everyday. Thanks.

yes just the top side was melted around the center...the factory assembly had triple guard grease holding the o-ring in place...when i replaced the cup and impeller the second time i made sure that the air bleed hole was open and it still got hot and melted the impeller.......almost like the water pump housing is being compressed when i tighten the gearcase up.....

Eric,

Have you had the opportunity to hook up a diagnostic program and check for service codes?

The reason I'm asking is because if you look at the water flow diagram in the service manual, you will see the flow of water to the overboard indicator comes out of the block, thru the EMM, thru the fuel vapor sep and then exits thru the o.b. indicator.

I'm suspicious you have a blockage somewhere "upstream" to the EMM and possibly it overheated and not the engine block itself. The EMM will store the appropriate overheat code for EMM or engine.

Those impellers don't look that bad - when the impeller housing is installed to the gearcase, there is some compression to the impeller and its not unusual to see the top of the impeller looking like that (I'm speaking <U>specifically</U> of the 2 cylinder E-TEC gearcase). If the impeller vanes are still flexible and the outer edges of them aren't melted, the impeller probably wasn't the source of the overheat.

Just a thought...

-John

John brings up a good point, is there a "quick-disconnect" garden hose adapter installed as a flushing port? If so, that will restrict the water outflow and cause overheat problems, especially with the EMM. The ONLY applies to the "in-line" E-TEC engines, 40 thru 90hp.

Eric,

Have you been running the motor above idle much using a garden hose on the flusher port?

Johnrude,

From my understanding, the air bleed hole is needed to help the pump reprime when running in areated water, such as with a pontoon boat or on a jack plate, and when running over rough waves and possibly jumping out of the water. If the air can't quickly evacuate, the pump runs dry in the highestmost part and friction does the rest. Don't forget that the pump's water inlet and water outlet is at the bottom of the impeller, not the top, so it is very easy to air-lock the top of the pump housing should the housing and cup holes be restricted or plugged up.

I hooked up my laptop to the engine tonite and found 2 code 25 and 1 code 43. The max engine temp was 221 and max EMM temp was 190.6
I also checked all the waterlines to the Emm and vapor seperator and found no restrictions or blockages in the lines or the EMM or the vapor separator,also there is no quick disconnect attached to the motor.Gonna check the water pump in it tomorrow and see what it looks like......thanks for your replies http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif

here is a pic of the impeller cups......the left one is the factory installed one,the other one i installed

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/4278/parts0097iu.jpg

Seahorse, I was thinking of the hole in the water pump housing not on the top of the cup. I see where your comming from now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnrude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seahorse, I was thinking of the hole in the water pump housing not on the top of the cup. I see where your comming from now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The 20" shaft motors that use the housing with the hole in the water outlet use that flow for helping to fill the midsection to help cool the exhaust pipe and quiet the motor.