2009 225 Pro xs @ times won't start after long idle???

When flounder fishing, at times I will idle the motor while bumping it in and out of gear. Sometimes after I do that and turn the motor off for a few minutes it won't start. I pump the crap out of the ball until it starts again. I just had the motor in for it's 20 hr service with 40 hrs on it. When I bought the motor and told the Dealer/Machanic that I would use the motor in such a fashion, I think he said (need to clearify) that the motor may lose prime and quite running. It has never just quite running while at ldle. He said the primer ball felt funny and replaced it. I did notice the new ball felt like I know a primer ball to feel. Today I noticed that the ball was feeling the same way as the replaced one. Spongey??? I have call to the machanic and see what is up. If I where ever in a tight spot and needed my motor to start and it did not, it could be a very big problem as I often fish aroud bridges and and other structure. Any Ideas???

Sounds like you MAY potentially have a fuel restriction.... possibly something as simple as the inner lining of a fuel line coming loose, and collapsing.

I'd suggest (as a starting point), that you remove and inspect the anti-siphon valve at the fuel tank (this is the "nipple" that the fuel line attaches to). Ensure there is no debris hung in it, and that it operates properly (flow one direction, but not the other).

Replace fuel line FROM THE TANK, TO THE ENGINE, INCLUDING A NEW PRIMER BULB (again). I would recommend ONLY Mercury/Quicksilver Line & Bulb.... and on the line, make sure it is the Gray line, with BLUE PRINTING (indicating EPA approved, Ethanol Resistant line).

Might also be a good idea to rebuild the pulse fuel pump (kit is only about $21).... although this is something that would be a warranty issue if it "failed" (except if the failure is caused by fuel or fuel system debris). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif Part number for the kit is 21-857005A1.

Thanks Don

Thanks for the response. All fuel lines were replaced along with fuel bulb. He thinks it my be a voltage issue. He used my existing battery lines for the new motor. He said before when we spoke of this issue that I should try both batteries when this issues ocurrs,which I forgot to do this past weekend. If this works he will run new 1/o wiring from the batteries to the motor. He said there is a reservour that should be full of fuel and if that reservor were to run dry the motor woild quit while idleing which it does not. May try to get one evening this week to do some testing. Again thanks for the insight and will keep you posted to the outcome.

If a voltage issue is suspected, I would recommend checking the ground cable and postiive cable WHERE THEY ATTACH TO THE ENGINE. These connections are sometimes found to be heavily laden with "liquid electrical tape".... or the connections are just "loose" (especially the ground cable, which mounts to the block BELOW the starter). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

These connections are JUST AS IMPORTANT (if not even more important) AS PROPER BATTERY CONNECTIONS. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Do you think this would contribute to a low voltage reading by the computer resulting in the motor not starting due to low voltage. The motor turns over but I understand that the motor won't start without the proper voltage?

It definitely COULD. Also possible is a Main Power Relay Issue... (among other items).

Incidentally, would be a good idea to listen for the fuel pumps to "run for approximately 2 seconds" at keyup (when the starting issue is occuring). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Question- Have you ever heard of these motors losing their prime and stalling after extended idleing time?

Will be putting the boat at a dock for the next couple of days to do some testing. Will keep it posted. This is a great site and great info.

It does happen.... especially if there is a fuel restriction, an air leak in the fuel supply line, or a weak pulse fuel pump. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Did some testing last evening. I found that if the motor struggles to start on bat 1 or 2, if I switch to both batteries it kicks off every time NO PROBLEM-I mean instantly. No pumping the ball. I guess this is why the ball felt hard at times and did not seem to want to pump at times. I believe it is not a gas issue as I thought, but a voltage issue. At times the voltage on either bat 1 or 2 would read 7.5 or 8 volts after cranking a bit but would come back up to 13 to 13.5 on the smart gauges. I did notice at times I would crank the motor for aprox 2-3 seconds and and let off the the key and it would start simulteneously with the letting go of the key but not turning it back to the off position???
I think it must get some sort of surge of juice at that last second??? I am dropping the boat at the dealer this morning. Will post the results.

Good deal- I'll bet you're on to something with the voltage!

Battery, cables, connections- something is causing a voltage drop, that is either causing the ECM to shut down, or failing to hold the MPR (main power relay) closed. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

In speaking with the dealer, he said, 1. the bateries should not go below 9 volts when cranking. 2. when you let go of the key the motor is still turning while the starter disengages and the extra voltage that was going to the starter must be deverted to the computer that senses the voltage and it starts (sometimes). At least that is what I think he said is happening in this scenario. This obviously happen very quickly. That said, the proof will be in the pudding when he starts the work and I get the boat back. I am learning allot, but would would rather be fishing.

I know where he got the "9 volts" comment from.... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

BUT... I can tell you from experience your engine won't be happy trying to start at ANYTHING below 11.0 VDC WITH THE STARTER SPINNING. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Can you explain a little why the motor will not start with low voltage? It seems most engines be it car or otherwise will start if one can turn it over????

Adequate voltage must be present "throughout the start cycle" to keep the PCM (computer), the MPR (main power relay), fuel pumps, injectors, and coils live.

All are necessary to start the engine. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

The PCM and MPR begin to "take on a mind of their own" somewhere around 11 volts. By 9.5 volts, the PCM is shutting itself down, and the MPR cannot keep the contacts closed (killing the fuel pumps).

This is why the MINIMUM battery spec (800CCA or 1000MCA) is often not nearly enough for a bass application. Most other boats "shut down electronics" when the engine is shut down..... but in the case of a bass application, you're more likely to "turn on electronics" (pumps, graphs, livewells, etc). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

That saps reserve capacity from the battery.... and if it was already at the "minimum".... you're soon lacking the necessary reserve capacity and current to meet the requirements!

Add some loose connections or bad cables into the mix...... http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif

I got my boay back Friday and fished Sat & Sun. Motor ran flawlessly!! Wiring from the batteries to the motor was replaced with heavier gauge wire along with a new battery switch. My guy even shortened up the wires that come from the motor. He said he found some cracks in the termimals on the battery swith. (may have been the culprit the whole time????) All at a cost of $572.00 Cost of feeling confident in the fact that when I turn the key the motor will start - Priceless!!

Don-Thanks you for your willingness to help.

http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif Glad to hear you're up and running! http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif