06 225 Pro XS sputtering / cuts off when given gas

It may be a coincidence, but I mixed my first tank of Quickleen. The motor seemed ok. At my first stop the motor cut off when I got off the gas. I cranked it back up and it revved up and cut off again. Then it would not get on plane. IT would get about 3000 rpms and was smoking. I cranked it up again and it you could not give it any gas or it would cut off. I idled back to the dock. I changed the water sperator and installed a new gas line. It seems to be getting gas, but it will not idle. It cranks and sputters then cuts off. I have a fuel filter for the motor, but there is a linkage in the way. How does the linkage come off? Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be? It is under warranty so that is the only good news that I have. I have never had any issues with this motor and about 250 hrs.
Thanks in advance.

The "linkage" you refer to is the throttle position sensor link arm. It's attached at the sensor with a "ball and socket" joint.

Carefully "pop" the ball and socket joint apart, and move the arm out of the way to access the filter. Reassemble by "snapping" the ball and socket back together.

As for your running problems.... this will require the basics. Compression, spark test, and air/fuel pressure tests. A good place to start would be with inspection of the belt and tensioner, as well as a "leak test" of the air system. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Any Chance that the Quickleen could have done something to the motor? It seemed like it was running hotter with it. This was the first tank using it. Did not make it 3 miles before the motor started acting up. Can it damage the motor if mixed too strong. I only used 1/3 bottle to a tank so I do not believe that is the issue, but the motor ran fine for 3 yrs till that tank. Is there a chance that the carbon could have fouled the plugs/injectors?


Modified by 520RangerMan at 7:19 AM 6/29/2009

Carbon coming loose and fouling a direct injector or spark plug- YES, it's possible (especially if you've not been running anything to combat carbon issues).

As far as the Quickleen "itself" damaging something- "don't think so". Of course, the engine won't run on "straight quickleen".... but I've run some pretty hefty amounts through engines in an effort to remove carbon, and never seen any issues. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

You were correct it was the belt tensioner. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif The belt broke which then led to the plugs fouling and the engine cutting off. I am going to replace the belt and air filter. I was told that when the belt breaks that it is good practice to change the air filter as well. I am also going to change the plugs while I am at it. Is there anything else that I need look into before firing it back up.
Thanks again. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago but i broke pulley on my motor which is backordered atm through mercury http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mad.gif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 520RangerMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You were correct it was the belt tensioner. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif The belt broke which then led to the plugs fouling and the engine cutting off. I am going to replace the belt and air filter. I was told that when the belt breaks that it is good practice to change the air filter as well. I am also going to change the plugs while I am at it. Is there anything else that I need look into before firing it back up.
Thanks again. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>

No air filter to change on your engine. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Be sure to check ALL of the pulleys- make sure there is nothing loose, all hardware is intact for each component driven by the belt, and that the belt tensioner and spring are in good condition. As for the tenioner... with the belt installed, you SHOULD need a 3/8" ratchet to move the tensioner away from the belt. If you can move it by hand.... there's likely a spring problem.

I would recommend running the engine for 5 minutes or so on the OLD plugs, prior to installing new ones (just to help purge the excess carbon and fuel). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

I installed the new belt and after alot of smoking the engine came back to life. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif There is one issue that seemed to start along with the other issues and may be fixed with new plugs, but when you shift into gear the engine revs up from 650 to 1200 rpm then immediately back down. I noticed this at the ramp the other day when the issues started happening. Any idea what is going on there and will new plugs cure this issue?
Thanks for all of your help. Thanks to you I will be fishing this weekend!!

There is a slight "momentary" increase in engine RPM as the engine is shifted into gear.

It should not be hitting 1200 RPM... are you using an analog tach to determine that figure (it may be reporting inaccurately). http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

I'd get the fresh plugs in it, and then see where you're at. http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif

I took the boat back to the lake today to run. It idled like before somwhat ragged sputterring, smoking and cutting off when I tried to give it gas. I figured it was just burning off the stuff from before. I did clean the plugs off as good as possible before reinstalling. The problem is it never got better. I ran it for over an hour. I have another set of plugs, but at this point I am not sure if that will fix the problem now. I hate to foul another set of $100 plugs. The bulb is still very soft when it is idling. Is that normal? I am not sure what you call them, but I checked the bars on the back that fuel runs through (at home when cut off ) and one had pressure and blew out fuel when I pushed the little button. The other was no pressure at all, just a little fuel ran out. It may be normal, but I would like to know if you think I should check something else first?

The primer bulb DOES NOT remain "hard" when the engine is running. Think of it this way.... when you pump the pump, you're "pressurizing" the fuel line. Once the engine starts- it begins to "suck" fuel through the fuel line and bulb (removing the pressure).

You mentioned that you saw a small amount of fuel at the PORT (left) side schrader valve fitting on the fuel rail. Was this BEFORE running at the lake, or AFTER? It's not uncommon to find fuel in the air rail after a belt failure.... and this can take some time to purge (runtime).

IF your plug(s) are fouled, you MAY have to replace them to get the engine to run properly. A fouled plug will cause adjacent cylinders to run rich, and fuel to puddle in the "cross" line for the air rails, resulting in even richer operation.

If it were me.... I'd check the air/fuel pressures with the engine running. This requires "liquid dampened" dual pressure gauges (or two separate liquid dampened gauges).

Port side (air fitting): 94, Starboard Side (fuel fitting): 108 (+/- 2 psi on each). Most important: 15 psi "differential" between the two!

If the pressures are good- replace the plugs and see how it does. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Both rails had fuel in them. The port was pressurized. The starboard was not pressurized at all and some fuel ran out of it as well. This was AFTER running it for an hour on the lake. Should both rails remain pressurized after you come off the water. Also are you saying there should be no fuel in these rails?
Thanks for your help. I would be lost without it.

There should be no fuel in the left (or PORT SIDE) schrader valve. The Starboard (right side) schrader valve SHOULD have fuel present.

The only way to accurately check these is with a "liquid filled dual-pressure gauge set" (or at least two separate liquid filled gauges).

With engine running:

Port rail pressure should be 94 psi
Starboard rail pressure should be 108 psi
(+/- 2 psi allowance)
MOST CRITICAL is a 15 psi variance between the two.

Upon shutdown, you should easily maintain the pressures for 30-60 seconds, with no substantial leakdown.

IF leakdown occurs... look for AIR LEAKS FIRST. Fuel pressure should always remain 15 psi above air pressure.... so it the air pressure is leaking down, the fuel pressure will drop with it. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Incidentally, ANYTHING that causes an air pressure leak, WILL ALSO CAUSE FUEL IN THE AIR RAIL. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

I tried to crank the motor and it acted like the battery was dead. I took off the air intake and you could see the pump was locked up. I undid the bolts and fuel poured out. I turned the wheel and nothing. The wheel turns free, but the piston does not move.
I thought my battery was dead the day that it failed. Turns out the pump was locking up and caused the belt to break. THen everything else follows.
I am taking it in now for warranty work. What would you make sure that they also check while it is in the shop. Do the injectors need to be cleaned as well. I would think that the debris would be pulled in the air intake.
Thanks for the help. I would not have found the problem without it.

This may have been caused by failed "reed valves" in the compressor. Any time there is an "air system leak"... there is a potential for fuel to enter the air system.

Although I've never personally seen this scenario.... I would say it is possible for the reeds (compressor reeds) to fail at high RPM, allowing fuel to back-feed into the compressor and "fluid lock" it.

More than likely, you'll be looking at a new compressor, compressor oil line filters, purge fuel from air rails, and POSSIBLY spark plugs (if heavily fouled). From there... a test-run will "tell the tale". http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif