Drop of RPM's

Trying to explain everything and this got a little long..

I have had my 300X on 2 different new boats, when I idle and hit the offshore trim up or down I feel the rpm's drop a little, I see it on the guage and I hear and feel it, only about 50 to 100 rpm's but I feel and hear it..

Had new harness motor side about 2 yrs ago, new boat and new harness about 1 yr ago, have had the charging system checked every time at the shop on the DDT with no issues..

The hydro jack plate seems to do the same thing but not as bad, I have even felt it at times when running hard at over 6000 rpm,s I can feel when I hit the trim as in a power loss. I have changed batteries several times, Optma 1100 cranking, Interstate wet cell 100 cranking, Dual Pro 1120 cranking 175 reserve..

thing that seems to help for a while is to spread the prongs between the 2 connectors from the motor harness to the boat harness so this would lead me to believe that the connection is bad, but as stated both are new and had the problem on first boat..

Anything that can be sprayed in for better connection??
Any Ideas why this is accuring??


Trim is now leaking down as well, checked fluid level, bleed system, also putt trim against its stops several times to try and clean out the ck valves. Some air did come out when I opened cap on reservoir.

I know this is long and probably a first that ya ever heard of, but I always seem to have firsts.. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif


Thanks in advance gang http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif

Couple of things you can check:

TRIM/RPM DROP:
- Make sure that the ENGINE battery cables are the FIRST cables installed onto your battery lugs. Then, stack your remaining cables largest to smallest. Finally, install SS Lock-nuts, wrench tight (don't use wing nuts).

-Check ground leads from trim solenoids for a good, clean ground. Actually remove them, clean them, then reinstall.

-DDT is a "poor" way to check the charging system on your motor. The screen data updates far too slow to see what's really going on. The CDS (computer diagnostic system) is a little better... you can put it in "graph" mode to watch battery voltage, which will help to pinpoint "spikes" in voltage (both low and high).


TRIM LEAKDOWN:

-If you have no "external" leakage apparent, but the system is leaking down, you might find a damaged o-ring on the manual release screw. With the engine "supported", remove the "snap ring" from the release screw (it prevents you from backing the screw out through the transom bracket). Carefully remove the screw and check all the o-rings... look up in the hole for shards of o-rings as well. ANY signs of problems, replace the entire screw. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif

Let us know what you find!

Thanks Don..

Have used the SS lock nuts for a long time (use "lou's torque" on the wrench) http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif
always stack like ya say, biggest first
just redid and rechecked all wiring cause I redid the battery compartment again, didn't recheck the wiring on the on board trim pump but will do it later..

Will ck the manual trim screw later didn't think of that one http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif

Will have charging system rechecked other then DDT next time I can

Thanks again, out the door for work before they fire me http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/ohwell.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif