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Is there anywhere local I can buy cool hubs? Also, somehow one of the bolts that holds the caliper and pads on the disc sheared or backed off an is missing. Any shot those would be easy to find local? If not I will call jeta and have shipped but was hoping to avoid extra downtime for shipping.
Would any of you suggest buddy bearings over cool hubs? Why or why not?
my buddy bought oil cooled hubs and other trailer parts at our local spring shop here in indy. might try a place like that. good luck
matt can the cool hubs and put regular grease hubs on it you will be much happier trust me http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
give these guys a call,they usually have anything you need for trailers and pretty reasonable too
http://www.superpages.com/bp/L...0.htm
Matt which part are you needing? If it's just a o-ring I might be able to help you out, also I'll be at Jet-a Sat. morn if you need me to pick something up.
Stacey...I ordered the bearings and seals today along with the bolt that is missing but did not get the O ring. (I don't understand how that bolt sheared or backed out?? I had it cranked down tight as I could when I replaced the fluid a year ago.) If you are going to JetA and can pick up a few, I'll make a trip your way to pick them up and pay you for them. If you can get 3 or 4 that'd be great.
Jet A recommended replacing the whole hub but I didn't buy it and guess I'll roll the dice with my existing. Seems it'll do fine if I'm replacing all the parts in it anyhow??
This is all new to me on working on this stuff so it should be a fun learning experience. My thinking was just the seal went bad.....
Any of ya'lls thoughts from experience would be appreciated.
I'll pick them up http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif and IM you Sunday, Bearings maybe enough unless the races are shot,I usually replace the o-ring if I pull the outer cap (cheap insurance) but honestly I've never really had a problem on my last 3 trailers with cool hubs, (I think we talked about this next part before but can't remember)most assume there leaking if they get a milky look (thats why they got rid of the sight glass on the new trailers) but condensation from the warm hubs hitting the cool water when you back in is normal all it takes is a very small air bubble and you'll get the milk look...but the oil is still good, changing the bearings and seals is a breeze, if you've got any questions give me a yell and I'll help ya out http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
A little blue loc-tite will probably help with the bolts backing out problem.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by nightbasser »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">matt can the cool hubs and put regular grease hubs on it you will be much happier trust me http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif </td></tr></table>
Ditto! I did this last spring and have been VERY happy with the results. Even upgraded to a newer braking system.
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
Was able to get my parts direct from the factory in TN - UFP was the manufacturer. Put a post in the trailers/towing section - Lynn Dyer I think is the guy's name who hooked me up.
New hubs, bearings, actuator, rotors, calipers....the whole thing! Was a great learning experience too; if anything should go wrong along the highway now, I'll know exactly what to do now that I know how the system works and what the parts are...it's really not rocket science.
You can go to Jacob Key's Boat and trailer repair.
just bought a spare cool hub off ranger for $70 ..waiting for it to come in the mail .
if you lost a rear seal or started too, it will wobble and possibly causing the caliper bolt to back out. i happened to look at mine about 2 months ago and the rear seal was halfway out and the caliper bolt was half out. so i caught it just in time...im assuming, one problem was getting ready to cause another...replaced the seal, and now im good to go.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Alliston64 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Stacey...I ordered the bearings and seals today along with the bolt that is missing but did not get the O ring. (I don't understand how that bolt sheared or backed out?? I had it cranked down tight as I could when I replaced the fluid a year ago.) If you are going to JetA and can pick up a few, I'll make a trip your way to pick them up and pay you for them. If you can get 3 or 4 that'd be great.
Jet A recommended replacing the whole hub but I didn't buy it and guess I'll roll the dice with my existing. Seems it'll do fine if I'm replacing all the parts in it anyhow??
This is all new to me on working on this stuff so it should be a fun learning experience. My thinking was just the seal went bad.....
Any of ya'lls thoughts from experience would be appreciated. </td></tr></table>
Matt, you don't have to change any hubs if you want to put grease back in there instead of oil, grease will work just fine, Ranger now does something similar to grease, it is a new type heavy oil that turns to grease when you get up and rolling, it lubs your bearings a lot better, but getting back to you all you need to do is just pack your bearings and add grease in those hubs. Keith who is our whell man expert had a little accident the other day and has been off a few days, i heard them talking to you about your hubs, the young amn told you what he though was best to do, just wish Keith had been there to advise you. If you have any questions let me know and i will try to get what you need or help you out in any way. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
By the way if you were talking about the very small o ring seal you can just run a small beed of silicone instead of replacing that small o ring, we got that trick from the Ranger Factory team at the Product Knowledge Tour a few years ago and that works just fine. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif