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I'm retiling the bathroom and put up the cement board today. My question is some of the screws aren't entirely flush with the cement board and I can't get them to go anymore. Its just the lip of the screw. Will this be ok to accept the tile or is there a way to drive them in a bit further? Thx!!
either a large bit head or hammer them down flat
They make special screws for this that have ridges on the under side of the head that self countersink the head. If it was mine I would at least make them flush. Wouldn't want to chance a tile cracking.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 1Stratos »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">They make special screws for this that have ridges on the under side of the head that self countersink the head. If it was mine I would at least make them flush. Wouldn't want to chance a tile cracking.</td></tr></table>+1 http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
I used the cement board screws thats why I dont understand why they didn't completely go flush. I'll see if I can't get em to go in a bit more somehow. Thx!!!
I'm guessing the screw didn't grab anything solid to pull it down. Try repositioning the screw.
I've been a tile installer for over 20 years. Definately use the coated screws that are meant for the board or the cement could corrode them. Use a impact drill with the hammering action and it should seat them all the way thru the board...if your not careful.
I used the coated screws and also confirmed that I am in the studs on all of them. My cordless drill has a hammer function. I will give that a shot! Thx for the suggestions!!
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by AWilliams »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I've been a tile installer for over 20 years. Definately use the coated screws that are meant for the board or the cement could corrode them. Use a impact drill with the hammering action and it should seat them all the way thru the board...if your not careful.</td></tr></table>
can you use an impact driver instead fo a hammer drill.............about to tile my master bath and shower
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mikepags »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
can you use an impact driver instead fo a hammer drill.............about to tile my master bath and shower</td></tr></table>
Yes. A regular drill worked fine for me. I had no problems. IF you get one that doesn't go all the way down back it all the way out and start again. Don't try to just tighten it. Under the head of the screw are ridges to cut a countersinking hole for the head. So you have to have some spin and speed for those to work. I hope that makes sense.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by RoadrashPaul »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Yes. A regular drill worked fine for me. I had no problems. IF you get one that doesn't go all the way down back it all the way out and start again. Don't try to just tighten it. Under the head of the screw are ridges to cut a countersinking hole for the head. So you have to have some spin and speed for those to work. I hope that makes sense.</td></tr></table>
I have both but I thought i read somewhere that the torque from the impact driver will be to much on cement board or drywall.........
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mikepags »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
I have both but I thought i read somewhere that the torque from the impact driver will be to much on cement board or drywall.........</td></tr></table>
They probably meant that you COULD drive the screw all the way through if you weren't careful. I would use it. No need to buy another expensive drill when you already have that one. But I am no expert either.
Not enough torque on the driver you are using or the wood has knots you are hitting. Remove the screw and install it up or down an inch from the original. If it still happens, instead of buying a new driver by a cheap counter sink bit. Remove the stubborn screws, use the countersink to widen surface of the hole and re-install the screw until flush with the cement board.
Depending on the notch size of the trowel a screw not totally flush shouldnt cause any problems.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by haha »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Depending on the notch size of the trowel a screw not totally flush shouldnt cause any problems.</td></tr></table>That's true....speaking from plenty of experience http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Yammie »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">hammer them down flat</td></tr></table>Not a good idea....you can break the screw and cause a weak spot....asking for trouble...jmho of course http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif
Depends on the screw you use
Went out and bought a cheap impact from Harbor Freight and it worked great! Thx again for all the suggestions!