Gel Coat/Clear Coat advice 1985 ranger 375v possible restoration

Hey guys,
I have an 85 ranger 375v that I have had for a few years. I have kept it covered or under a shelter since I have had it and I bought it from a friend who shelter kept it as well. The person he bought it from must have kept it parked on the face of the sun from what the top cap looks like.
I have read the clear/gel coat resto. threads but mine looks pretty bad compared to everyone else and I was wondering if I did the Basscat7 method if I was just going to be wasting my time. Here is a few pics of what I have done so far on a test spot. Please advise.

Here is a pic of the boat color from behind the seat pad.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...7/DSC_0166.jpg

This is a pic of what the top cap look like right beside where the test spot is located.(I have not removed the grab rails yet since I don't know if this is a project worth undertaking.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...7/DSC_0148.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...7/DSC_0148.jpg

I started with 800grt, but dropped back to 400 for just a pass or two and that helped knock down the build up greatly. I then hit it again with the 800, and then 1000. It is by no means done, but I think it looks better, but I am just wondering if my whole clear coat is gone and it is not going to look right until I get it sanded off. You can still see the spider web looking cracks and pin pore holesm in the finish. I am not getting any flakes, so I know I am still in the clear coat.
This first pic show the top rail dry.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...7/DSC_0154.jpg

Spit shined top rail.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...7/DSC_0158.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...7/DSC_0160.jpg

My main question is whether or not you all think I will be able to get rid of the scratchy look before I get through the whole clear coat? Also, I have only waxed on car in my life and never have compounded anything so will those products assist in the filling/covering of the cracks/pores?

Thanks guys for the help, information and advice.

I am by no means an expert, heck I don't know much at all when it comes to gel coat, but it looks to me like there may have been a clear poly brushed over that gelcoat and that those might not be scratched but brush strokes instead.

No clear coat. The last pic was spit shine(finger/spit). I was just trying to wet it and see how well it was smoothed out and shined up.

Looks like you can get some shine out of it, I say try a larger area and see what happens.

After you get through sanding, you might try the 3M Perfect-it rubbing compound then follow that up with the 3M perfect-it machine polish and a good coat of wax. Be sure to use the buffing pads recommended for those products. I have had excellent results with these products on my boat as well as a friends boat just last weekend. I bought mine at a Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes store here by my house, but I'm sure you can get it off the internet as well. (probably cheaper too)

Thanks guys. It appears there might be some hope.......I will most likely be diving into this as a fall/winter project because the honey do's are long. If I get a chance I will definitely knock it out. I am just planning on doing the top rail/side/interior, not the whole hull. Hull looks good. Probably just needs a good buffing/compounding and waxing.

If I could make one suggestion for you as I also just did a Ranger 375-V. When doing the wet sanding don't use the big rubber sanding block. If you go to Wal-Mart they sell a sanding sponge made for wood. Buy one of them and then peel off the glued on sandpaper (comes off really easy) what you are left with is a spongy block that is pretty dense. I found it was much easier to keep even pressure on the curvature of the boat as I sanded.

Cut your sheets of sand paper in half and its fits on the block perfectly once rolled around it. You can change the position of the paper to get get all the entire half sheet used.

Also, remove all the hardware (chrome) and it makes the job much easier.

The scratches are from the 400 grit, just follow the procedure up top for the wet sanding.
Using the progressivley finer grits will take out the scratches, the compounding will take out the 1200 grit fine scratches and the glaze will take out the swirl marks from the compounding.
Those old Rangers had good gelcoat on them, you should be able to complete this without taking off the layer of clear gel.

I was just wondering what color of brown your boat was???