Printable View
Howdy!
I just picked up my first boat, 1986 Skeeter SF90, with 75 Mariner. I'm doing a cap off resto. I'm taking lots of pictures I will post later. I think I have almost everything off the motor, but can't figure out how to get the throttle and gear cables off. Also, I got the large jamb nut loose on the steering cable, will everything come out when I get the motor off? And last thing, where are good hoist points on this motor?
Thanks,
Kenny
I dunno on the mariner but you should be able to take a nut off the linkages somewhere then pull them thru the access plate on the cowling,And if you have the jamb nut off the steering cables pull them back andd grab hold of the cables and pull them straight out of the shafts they may be a tad stuck but just work them back and forth or spray some lube in the shafts.the cables are gonna be tight but you wont hurt them ,they will slide out and your good to go
Cool, thanks. I can only work on it a little at a time between A/C rests!
Congrats on the first boat. Get ready to have a lot of fun!! Dido to the above reply on the cables. The best way to lift the motor is to buy or borrow a lift ring. The lift ring will just screw onto the stud on the top of the flywheel. Just remove the nut and screw the lift ring on in it's place. Hope everything goes well. Don't forget to post pics.
Thanks again! It looks like I may be missing something, or rather not seeing it. There is a binder type snap that clamps both cables at the pivot point. Both cables are threaded through that brass pivot point, but I don't have enough room to pull the brass thing out. (Now how to figure out how to post pictures)
Got them out. Just had to twist and turn the ends to get the brass adjusters out.
Went and talked to a local boat tech and he gave me some pointers to get the steering cable out. It was rusted/corroded in the pivot tube. So, now the motor is free, hanging on my engine hoist. Now to build the engine stand. It was suggested to me to do a comp test on my motor before I do any thing else. So I will build my motor stand and do a compression check.
Where I'm at now.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat004-5.jpg
Wood at bottom of transom is wet. I'm really disappointed, because the transom feels SOLID!I know Sea Cast is an option, as well as cut out and replace the plywood. Any other suggestions?
Transom and both 'dog houses' are out. Wet wood everywhere.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat007-2.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat012-1.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat005-5.jpg
Little bit of progress. Transom cut and dry fit. I laminated two pieces of 23/32 A/C grade ply together with glass and poly. If I had the time, I probably would have gone with PL. My first batch of resin didn't go so well. I did have a pretty good helper though!
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...90/boat013.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat004-9.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat003-6.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat008-4.jpg
Just thought I'd post some updated pictures.
Transom is in, and was fitting the stringers in in this pic.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...boat002-13.jpg
Test fitting the deck.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat005-8.jpg
I just covered the transom in 1.5oz CSM and 24oz (I think it's 24oz) rovin. Will post these pictures later.
Looks good, In your last picture is the transom glassed ? If so your gonna have a weak transom. you need to put at least 2 layers of woven, and make the 1st layer go past transom wood 3-5" then on the second layer make the woven go past the wood 8-10", this will give your transom serious strength. Keep up the good work http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
No, it isn't glassed in that picture. I made some 'peanut butter' and filled the gap at the bottom. I glassed it today with one layer of 1.5oz CSM and one layer of 24oz rovin.
Here is a picture of the un-resined rovin.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat005-9.jpg
Good Luck and keep us posted !
Be sure to have sealed drains at hull level going between the stringers.
I thought about that, but since I'm going back with pour in foam, I didn't think it would do any good. If I used the pink Owens foam board, I would make stringer drain holes.
Progress report. Pictures of my pour in foam kit and foam work. I wrapped the stringer cavities in plastic to prevent, hopefully, any water saturation. it worked okay. Screwed the deck with 3" stainless deck screws.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...boat001-15.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...boat004-12.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../boat008-7.jpg
Back half of hull foamed and decked. Deck just needs glass now. I ran out of foam, so my 'dog houses' didn't get installed yet. I'll probably use a can or two of expanding foam, but I haven't decided for sure yet.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...boat002-18.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...boat003-14.jpg