Was wondering how hard of a job it is.
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Was wondering how hard of a job it is.
I'll be doing it shortly to my 89 1800tf. Right now absolutely nothing electrical works and I'll be going through it completely. Replacing every switch and breaker, checking every wire and I'm sure replacing a bunch of them too. I've been doing 12volt electrical for a long time and I'm sure it will be pretty easy. The electrical systems on these boats are pretty basic. I'd LOVE to find a wiring diagram of how the boat was wired originally, but that's been impossible to track down.
Did you have any particular questions? If I were you, unless the wire itself is in really bad shape, I would just re-do all connections and replace broken switches. What in particular is your boat having an issue with? In my opinion a complete re-wire would not be that bad at all, but I know a lot of people hate dealing with electrical.
Theres really nothing wrong at all with the wiring. I do however plan on changing the fuse block to the type that takes the blade fuses like in cars. I've got it apart now recarpeting and was just thinking about the wiring.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Basketcase »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd LOVE to find a wiring diagram of how the boat was wired originally, but that's been impossible to track down. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not a diagram per se, but here is a chart of the wiring colors and the equipment the wires are associated with.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ringColors.jpg
I am doing my boat right now to be safe, get a good test light and make sure all your connections are water tight.liquid electrical tape works great, along with shrink tubing you can get at the hardware store.
If you are replacing all the wires, go up one size in the wire.
any questions ask away, i have wired a few trucks for plowing with massive amounts of safety lights and car audio, so i have done it a few times.
Also dont hook the battery up until you are ready to test the circuit
Rich
Good advice by deerslayer. In addition to a test light, a DMM will tell you if you have questionable connections by showing a voltage drop. If the voltage on a particular circuit is lower than the voltage at the battery, you have a bad connection.
Also, if you can find it, there is shrink tube with adhesive inside it that works great. When you heat it, the adhesive melts and oozes all over your connection and seals it up really well. The liquid E tape is cool stuff too.
I just got around to pulling the main switch panel last night just to poke around. Looks like it hasnt been messed with too much on mine but the main power switch is GONE and most of the others are broken.
And thanks Hammerhead for the chart. That helps a LOT! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif