Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
uhh. first off. someone should be hurt for letting it get that way.
secondly, wetsanding, new panels, new carpet, all new wiring. id take it down to nothing. everything off...even engine. everywhere, pump everything. and if i was a betting man..i bet the transom needs to be replaced..
if you do it right and replace everything. your looking at about 3-4k for repairs.. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (jseasor)
If you take it down to fix the transom go ahead and fix the stringers and flooring. To much work not to do that while you have the cap off.
If you decide to replace the flooring be sure you measure the floor height. Awful hard to fit the cap back down if the flooring is reinstalled a bit too high.
I agree with the above post concerning the condition of the boat. Real shame someone allowed it to go that far.
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Jack Yates)
Or you could just donate it to me. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif Love them ole Rangers....
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (racefan)
Can't split the top on a Ranger - the Foam bonds both together .
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
I have suggestions for your questions,pictures
Battery compartment
remove the oil container, batteries, replace the gas lines, and fix any elec wiring where the connections to the battery or switches. When you remove the oil tank take a flashlight and look underside the inside of compartment/transom and look for stress cracks if any where the underside of splashwell and transom meet. Use degreaser or grease lightning to cleanup the bilge area. Check the livewell valves, typ, the rubber flaps become brittle and dont hold a good seal and cause the livewell valve not to hold water. Call Ranger and order the replacement flaps. Don' replace the valve unless necessary as it will change the placement of the lever at the livewell controls beside the console
Rear deck
replace carpet and im assuming that the seat pedestal has the plastic black insert. they tend to swell and make it hard ot remove the pedestal pole/seat when they do. Ranger has them too.
Console, there was another member that redid his w/ whats looks like cherry stain or something here on BBC Replace the switches and check wiring under the console. Alot of times the connectors will be loose and cause possibly issues w/ loose connection on water. I ran the wiring for my depth finder directly to the starting batter and an inline fuse. I would look at building a box w/ wood and add a hatch door to give you more secure storage.
Bow console
charge/run switch for trolling motor. I think they were for being able to charge the batteries directly at the front box. Trim switch for up and down
Rear livewell??
It lookes like the livewell at the bow. Clean w/ grease lightning
shifter and livewell controls
Shifter for direction forwards, revers, and the further you push it the faster it goes in either direction Livewell controls are either open or closed.
When you replace the carpet make sure to strip all the black rubber carpet and glue off. Also use a sharpie and anywhere u find a hold in the floor from previous owners using screws for whatever purpose so you can make sure to seal all of them. You can use marinetex for that repair. Deck extension is not hard to do. Just make sure to encapsualte all the wood for the deck extension. If you do find any soft spots in the floor now is the time to make the necessary repairs. If you find weak spots use a circular saw or cutting wheel to remove the bad section of flooring. MAKE SURE YOU ADJUST THE SAW TO THE SAME THICKNESS OF THE DECK. If not than you will wind up cutting the floor stringers.
Transom suggestions
trim the motor up and have someone push down on the lower unit and watch where the motor is bolted inside the splashwell and see if there is any flexing. Also look to see if the top two motor mounting bolts are not pulling into the fiberglass. If hte transom is sound, I would recommend removing the motor and reselaing the bolt holes w/ lifecaulk or 5200 below waterline applications.
You can replace the transom if it is bad and needs replacing it is not impossible but takes some work and time. The stringers can be replaced inside the bilge compartment. I had an older Ranger and asked ranger about separating the hull from the top cap and they said not able too due to the construcion and foam.
Depending on the outcome of transom, etc.....
Your looking approximately range from $1,500 to $2,500, carpet, deck extension materials, switches, tires,
Hope thie helps
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (javelin90)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by javelin90 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have suggestions for your questions,pictures
Battery compartment
remove the oil container, batteries, replace the gas lines, and fix any elec wiring where the connections to the battery or switches. When you remove the oil tank take a flashlight and look underside the inside of compartment/transom and look for stress cracks if any where the underside of splashwell and transom meet. Use degreaser or grease lightning to cleanup the bilge area. Check the livewell valves, typ, the rubber flaps become brittle and dont hold a good seal and cause the livewell valve not to hold water. Call Ranger and order the replacement flaps. Don' replace the valve unless necessary as it will change the placement of the lever at the livewell controls beside the console
Rear deck
replace carpet and im assuming that the seat pedestal has the plastic black insert. they tend to swell and make it hard ot remove the pedestal pole/seat when they do. Ranger has them too.
Console, there was another member that redid his w/ whats looks like cherry stain or something here on BBC Replace the switches and check wiring under the console. Alot of times the connectors will be loose and cause possibly issues w/ loose connection on water. I ran the wiring for my depth finder directly to the starting batter and an inline fuse. I would look at building a box w/ wood and add a hatch door to give you more secure storage.
Bow console
charge/run switch for trolling motor. I think they were for being able to charge the batteries directly at the front box. Trim switch for up and down
Rear livewell??
It lookes like the livewell at the bow. Clean w/ grease lightning
shifter and livewell controls
Shifter for direction forwards, revers, and the further you push it the faster it goes in either direction Livewell controls are either open or closed.
When you replace the carpet make sure to strip all the black rubber carpet and glue off. Also use a sharpie and anywhere u find a hold in the floor from previous owners using screws for whatever purpose so you can make sure to seal all of them. You can use marinetex for that repair. Deck extension is not hard to do. Just make sure to encapsualte all the wood for the deck extension. If you do find any soft spots in the floor now is the time to make the necessary repairs. If you find weak spots use a circular saw or cutting wheel to remove the bad section of flooring. MAKE SURE YOU ADJUST THE SAW TO THE SAME THICKNESS OF THE DECK. If not than you will wind up cutting the floor stringers.
Transom suggestions
trim the motor up and have someone push down on the lower unit and watch where the motor is bolted inside the splashwell and see if there is any flexing. Also look to see if the top two motor mounting bolts are not pulling into the fiberglass. If hte transom is sound, I would recommend removing the motor and reselaing the bolt holes w/ lifecaulk or 5200 below waterline applications.
You can replace the transom if it is bad and needs replacing it is not impossible but takes some work and time. The stringers can be replaced inside the bilge compartment. I had an older Ranger and asked ranger about separating the hull from the top cap and they said not able too due to the construcion and foam.
Depending on the outcome of transom, etc.....
Your looking approximately range from $1,500 to $2,500, carpet, deck extension materials, switches, tires,
Hope thie helps</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, this is exactly what i was looking for. I know I have a project on my hands, but it will be a labour of love. I am a HUGE fan of these boats, and intend to restore this one to it's former glory.
I will keep everyone informed as work progresses.
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
Here is a link to some of the pics of the work done to my 1981 Ranger 350V
http://www.bbcboards.net...m-etc
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Mike C)
good job on the repair on your ranger
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Mike C)
Mike, how is the transom holding up? I have been looking at a weathered 350v that is an 86 350v and has a yamaha 150 pro V which i think is blown powerhead. I was thinking of getting it. I'm sure could get for $500 for the boat, trailer,motor, and trolling motor. Floor in spot is rotten but not impossible.
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (javelin90)
If you buy it I could use the lower unit.....i went to strip carpet today and found a big! puddle of oil under my motor. I just filled it up last week. *SIGH*
Good news is, I got close to 90% of the carpet out in 2 hours....
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
used the Seacast to build the transom , been 2 years so far and its solid . Still have some stuck to the concrete ,were I did the work and its still as solid as a rock , stuff is strong http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/USA1.gif
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
Looks like a fun project. should be nice when its all done. Nice job on your boat Mike. I love seeing completed resto's.
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Mike C)
Mike, wonder if it can be used for custom worm molds???
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
Sounds like you need a new seal at the shaft or you forgot to tighten the fill/drain plugs. maybe the o-ring is worn out. All cheap and easy fixes. Did you actually see a cracked lower unit with the lube leaking out?
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Hometownhandyman)
Hometown, let me know if you need any help. I just got done with my 84' 392, a total rebuild. I have a lot of pics before and after. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/USA1.gif
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (AZ River Rat)
Check out my web site, I just rebuilt my 1983 Ranger 372v with some of the same issues that you are talking about. The web site is http://home.comcast.net/~boats615/ranger.htm
If you have any questions please ask me and I will try to help.
Re: Here I go 1985 Ranger 370V (Firefighter615)
That is a great resouce! It is helping me answer some questions that I have. thanks for the link!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Firefighter615 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check out my web site, I just rebuilt my 1983 Ranger 372v with some of the same issues that you are talking about. The web site is http://home.comcast.net/~boats615/ranger.htm
If you have any questions please ask me and I will try to help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
