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just replaced the bowls and at least now it idles .Should we do another lync and sync we did one the other day when we replaced the optical sensor.Also has a lean sneeze evry once in a while and she seems to hesitate when giving the gas.gonna take her out tomorrow to run her and clear her out then he wants to see the plugs and we'll go from there any imput would be great,want the old girl back to where she was runnin like tin bear help
I JUST went through the same mess you're in. VRO solved most of my problems. I couldn't power load it on the trailer; when I gave it gas she'd sputter and die. I couldn't take off out of the hole; she'd sputter and die. I had to keep hitting the choke to get it to go but once it did everything was fine. Put a new VRO on her and I can powerload, take off on a hole shot. Last saturday night she sneezed and died on me once while in gear putting through a long no wake zone.
took her out this morning and she fired right up and idled about 900 to 950 sneezed evry once in a while put her in gear and she stalls every time starts right back and idles in neutral but put her into gear she stalls.If I can get her by feathering the throttle over 1100 she'll go runs strong 2 guys in the boat 5400 rpm's and 60mph real responsive at high end 4000rpms real nice response to any amount of gas given where to I or how do I bring the rpm's up on idle and make her stop stalling and bogging
Been there done that..................Adjusted the hot foot, adjusted the idle up.....still did it until I replaced the VRO http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif
We had the exact same oproblems
Read my posts "and the problems continue"............I believe it was Seahorse who suggested a VRO pressure test. I'd almost bet you'll find the same problem I did when you do this test. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/popcorn.gif
well the problems go on I took her out again today because yesterday I found the throttle roller was not adjusted right but that didn't make much different still does not want to idle or take gas in gear below 1200 rpms above that is fine where do I look now
What were the numbers on the compression check?
90 on 1 guage and 100 on another all cycylinders I'm really getting fustrated and depressed tourney season and I'm missing a lot of tourneys with this been down since may1st help
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by twitch »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote"> I'm really getting fustrated and depressed tourney season and I'm missing a lot of tourneys with this been down since may1st help</td></tr></table>
Then it may be time for professional trained help instead of throwing parts at it until something works.
could an air leak on the side plate do this enough to make it idle that low and not take gas at all in gear???
Try hooking it up on muffs and see if it does what it's been doing with no back pressure applied.
what will that accomplish if it does not do it what does that mean???
Twitch you might check that throttle roller on the shaft. It consist of 3 pieces. A small diameter black plastic bushing [about 1/4 dia.] held on with a small rubber o-ring then a larger clear plastic bushing [about 7/16 dia.] slips over it. This larger clear bushing cracks or can split in two and fall off all together. Most guys dont even notice it. This can realy mess up link and sink. Good Luck.
are you talking about the one on the side of the block next to the carbs or the one on the top next to the timing settings
Drivers side top carb. throttle shaft.
I just have a black piece of plastic about 1/2 long nothing on top of it also sprayed the crap out of the motor today with carburater cleaner while it was idling nothing happened after it seem to get real warm it did start to idle higher and then would take the gas a little better still hesitation but would go seem to lose a little on top end though and still bogging out of hole but as bad as before I think I'm going to have to bring her to a shop I have a 2 day tourney this weekend and then will see how it goes then decide
how do you check to see operating temp and wether there is a stuck thermostat,do I need special tools for thatn it picks up rpms after running and it's real hot or warm then it idles better what does that mean??
I had simular problems about a month ago tried everything I could think of to try. Finally I took it in about a month ago cost me 90 bucks to have them look at it and tell me what was wrong and the did a link and sync and adjusted timing. Turns out for me it was a bad coil pack on cyl 5 and 6 just at idle he found was giving weak spark. Hope you get it going http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif
I might just have to do that because we are getting no where now.and I don't have the expertise or time or tools to do it myself.
Thats what I ran into as well, mine was still running well enough to use so I made an appointment and dropped it off and picked it up the same day so I didn't miss any time on the water hopefully you can get it figured out