Restoring 84 Champion 186DC F&S

Posted this in the Champion forum and Lea suggested posting here also for more info. - I purchased this 84 Champion DC F&S about 9 mths ago (paid $1650 for boat, motor & trailer) and have been concentrating on essentials such as rewiring, replacing fuel filler hose, checking out motor (1987 175hp Mariner) and, oh yeah, fishing!! I'm getting ready to start cosmetic and performance improvements. Several questions. (1) I would like to add a larger casting deck similar to the pic I found on the Owners site. How are the side seats removed without tearing up the sidewalls. I can't seem to find the fasteners and I would like to preserve the seats, if possible, for family use. (2) I'd like to confirm what model I have. SN is TSB05066M84A. (3) What color is this? I have buffed & waxed and it looked a lot better than the photo for a while but faded quickly and there are some spider web cracks and I might need to repaint . (4) performance tips: I'm running around 57 mph (gps) @ 5000+/- rpm. I currently have a Quicksilver model #48-11074-A40 23pitch and no jackplate. I have carb kits ordered. Hope to see some improvement from that. Where to I go from here? Any and all suggestions appreciated! Oh, she rides great for an old girl. I will try to get closeups of the spiderwebbing and post them.
My boat
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...oject/54_3.jpg
Full deck pic
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/GMedley2.jpg


Modified by electrikal at 7:07 AM 7/11/2007

Sorry I can't help you on your Champion specific questions, but someone here should be able to chime in. How is the floor and transom on the boat? I would check them out good, being that the boat is over 20 years old now.

Regarding the spider cracks, they come with age and use and it is normal (unless they look large and deep, which normally indicates excessive flexing). You can try to repair the minor ones, but they will most likely just reappear again. They are caused by the boat flexing. Over time, the cracks will appear.

Do the front cushions have snaps? Can you get behind the glass that they are attached too? Maybe there are screws coming from the back side? A deck extension would be awesome for that boat.

Thanks for the reply Mike. As to the floor & transom - They seem to be in excellent shape http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif no flex in the transom or evidence of wood rot. Floor seems solid everywhere. I pulled seat mounts out, removed fuel tank and looked as far as I could with a flashlight and didn't see any evidence of damage. My only hull/floor concerns were the bow eyelet which had pulled and ripped forward 1 1/2" and the wood that held the eyelet in this part of the bow had rotted. I removed the wood and installed a 2" x 7" pvc schedule 80 pipe. Epoxied that in place and purchased an extended length boweye w/1/8 thick washer on top. I also had to refiberglass the hull in that area, sanded smooth & drilled hole through hull & pipe. It has been in since right after I bought it and seems to be stout. I do need to repaint this area. What is a good touchup paint? Also at the stearn, where the three drain tubes and livewell intake come through there is some discoloration but no leakage into the boat. However I'm concerned that these drainage tubes may need sealing up better or replacing. One has a black caulklike substance around it.
This area still sounds solid and inside shows no damage. I'll try and get pics of that also.

Cracks are not deep http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif but sounds like I'm stuck with em?

I found some screws run through the console area into the cushionbacks but cannot reach my arm into the area between side cushion and hull to see if they had screws run in from the frt and then covered. I hoping someone here might know before I breakout the crowbar. Or I might just have to tear up the upholstery. Probably safer than ripping a screw out of the side panel.

try and contact dean's top and canvas in mtn home arkansas- they built your seats and can probably tell you how they are installed...

That looks to be a 184DC. If I'm not mistaken, those side cushions pushed down onto metal brackets that were attached to the sides. You'll probably have to pull the compartment lids off and halfway slide into the storage boxes in order to reach the nuts up inside the hull. You'll be left with about 3 or 4 holes about 1/2" in diameter down the side of the hull where the side cushions were.

I'm intending to also add an insert to my 184 as well. You'll notice the rod box tops are not flush with the front deck but about 3/4" lower. I'm going to frame in the rod boxes and insert so it's flush with the deck. Then I'll cut the existing openings for both of those rod boxes wider. There's just too little room to get rods in and out of there or equipment.

I've already turned the front livewell into an cooler. I may just eliminate it altogether as I really want to move the pedestal back some. I put in a recessed tray for my foot control and it's just too close to the existing pedestal base if I want to sit while I fish.

Good luck, post pictures when you get some.

Thanks Cart7. I found 4 screws under consoles and one in the front seat corner. Removed and lifted out the seats, drilled out the rivets for the hooks last night. Now have to patch the 28 1/4" hole http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif. I hear you on the rod storage problem. I had considered doing the same but doesn't look like I would gain much plus the curvature of the hull is part of the reason rods don't insert easily and wondered if it would lose some strength where the deck supports would attach. I had also considered removing frt livewell (useless) and cutting out an opening through both walls into the bow. Then I could design a deck cover hinged in the middle (approx. 2' as I have 4' from console to existing deck) as you step up to the deck. Those 7'+ rods should have plenty of room then http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/wink.gif .

Measured length of boat as 18'6" from bow to stern. Width at stern 7' and 6' back from bow as 6'. Is this a 186 or 184 model?

Here are some pics of the areas I most concerned with.
Several areas similar to this. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mad.gif Will this sand out?
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/IMG_0174.jpg
Area around these tubes sounds solid. Could be rust from tubes? What do I do to this.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/IMG_0175.jpg
Rectangle indicates hooks Cart7. This area behind seats is very darkened. Will this sand/buff out? http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/praying.gif
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/IMG_0181.jpg
This site has some awesome info http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/USA1.gif . I've searched on several issues and always found good intel. If you folks will point me towards the right threads I will be most grateful. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/popcorn.gif


Modified by electrikal at 7:29 AM 7/11/2007

Yours is a 184.

The area behind the pads should sand out unless moisture was trapped behind it for prolonged periods.

The spider webbing looks like mine. I'm not going to mess with it. It's probably due to a collision or two with a boat dock. Consider it the petina of the boat.

The rust looks to be coming from inside the drains. Check in the livewells to make sure you don't have something in there rusting. Same for the bilge area.

I completely gutted out my livewell plumbing and redid it. Both LW drain valves had frozen up and I didn't feel like changing them.

I highly doubt that you will be able to remove the stress cracks. They are most likely through the gelcoat. Buff them out with the rest of the boat and that is as good as it will get, unless you want to sand them completely out (depends how deep they are) and have the area refinished. There is a chance they will just appear again, if this area flexes on the boat.

I would be concerned about the stains by your fittings. Being that they are all stained, I would suspect you may have a transom problem vs. something running out of the boat that stained it (but the white fitting is stained inside, so maybe it was just rusty water in the boat?). I would remove one or more of the fittings and have a look inside just for peace of mind. Any dark stains coming from the rear tie downs?

You will probably have to live with the difference in color under the cushions. I'm sure the sun has taken it's toll on the exposed surfaces over the years. Wet sanding and buffing may help. You would have to try it to see. Otherwise, maybe you can add something to the boat to cover up the area??

Guess I'll find out when I wetsand and buff as to the cracks AND color difference. There is an area under the trolling motor mount that shows the true color and it is not darkened. The proposed deck extension will cover some area and I will just have to get creative on the rest http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/ohwell.gif.

I have not tried removing the stains yet. I will do that and see if the stains continue. I do know that, while I had the fuel tank out, I observed some rusted clamps on the livewell system which I replaced. Unfortunately I didn't replace the valves and yeah, Cart7, they are stuck open. Another project on the list http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif.
Hopefully http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/praying.gif that is where the stain is coming from.

How do I go about removing the drain tubes & sealing them back in? I assume I can get a good look inside the wood of the transom there? No stains at the tiedowns, drain tube at splashwell or around motor bolts!! http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif

The fittings should have nuts on them from the inside. You should be able to see them from the bilge area. There will be some sealant on them, so you will have to work them to get them loose.

i have redone many like this. The stress cracks are there to stay unless you want to grind down deep enough to reglass the area and reflake the area. not really woth the money on an older boat, unless you just want it like new.The oxidation may come out by wet sanding with 1000 grit, then 1200 grit , then 1500 grit. then buff with 3m perfect 3 fast cut on a wool pad. after doing this use the regular perfect 3(not fast cut) on a foam (egg cate) pad to finish it up. It will buy you a year or so usually. But eventually have the top cap clear coated. if you wish to attempt this email me and i will give you some helpfull tips. the stains around your drains look like rust to me in the pics, but thats hard to tell. I would still pull all of them and clean them up or replace them make sure to silcone the good on reinstall.

email me if you need assistance
Doug McGee

Thanks Doug. May be in touch. I've read & reread several post on the sanding/buffing procedure and sounds like work but I've got more time than money soooo!! I have a son that does auto painting and I'll let him handle the clearcoating. The cracks don't bother me that much and the fish sure don't care!!

I will have to pull my tank (again http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mad.gif ) to get to the tubes. Might as well fix the livewell valves while it's out as they are under that area. Hey Cart7- where did you obtain your valves? Also, while the tank is out, I'm considering a jackplate, (bolts for the motor are readily accessible with tank out) anyone have a recommendation on this. Is it worth the expense/trouble? http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mug1.gif

Just checked my post on the Champion forum, Cart7, and Pat Goff seems to think it's a 184DCB F&S.

I will be keeping this project's pics at my Photobucket account. I haven't arranged them yet but I will post the connection at a later date.

NEED SOMETHING LET ME KNOW. i WOULD NOT PUT A PLATE ON A BOAT THAT OLD. IF THE TRANSOM IS STARTING TO GET WEAK YOU MAY FINISH IT OFF. I HAVE HAD 5 OR 6 CHAMPIONS AND I HAD 2 WITHOUT PLATES AND THE REST WITH. I NEVER SAW ALOT OF DIFFERENCE SPEED WISE MAYBE 2 MPH BUT THE 2 THAT DIDN'T HAVE PLATES DIDN'T HAVE STRESS CRACKS AROUND THE SPLASHWELL EITHER. LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP.

DOUG MCGEE
dougnitnamcgee@hotmail.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electrikal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Doug. May be in touch. I've read & reread several post on the sanding/buffing procedure and sounds like work but I've got more time than money soooo!! I have a son that does auto painting and I'll let him handle the clearcoating. The cracks don't bother me that much and the fish sure don't care!!

I will have to pull my tank (again http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mad.gif ) to get to the tubes. Might as well fix the livewell valves while it's out as they are under that area. Hey Cart7- where did you obtain your valves? Also, while the tank is out, I'm considering a jackplate, (bolts for the motor are readily accessible with tank out) anyone have a recommendation on this. Is it worth the expense/trouble? http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mug1.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really think the jackplate is worth the trouble. The boat runs outstanding without it.
As for the livewell valves, the actual valve control cables were seized up. Since I don't fish tourneys anymore I just took the valves out and straight plumbed the livewell drain right out the back of the livewell to the transom drainhole.