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I saw the string for replacing a skeeter transom. Has any fellow boaters replaced a transom on a Javelin boat before and also do you have any pictures or techniques on doing so? Is the top cap glued to the hull or can you remove all the 1-1/4" stainless screws behind the rub rail and lift the top cap seperate form the hull?
I would greatly appreciate any tips or suggestions anyone can offer.
Thank you in advance, Garland
Copied from my transom pics thread. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif Larry, do you have anymore pictures of your transom repair other than what you have posted on shutterfly website? I think i understand when you mentioned that you shaped/fitted the knee braces down into the hull and then poured epoxy into the holes/hull. I can see where the jackplate is biting into the fiberglass. I feel comfortable doing the transom repair myself. I was wondering what kind of cost the materials will cost me and approx how long this will take?
I removed the black rubrail some yesterday and i do not have rivets but approximately (200) 1-1/4" stainless steel screws that i can use my powerdrill and remove and reinstall. It appears that stainless steel screws bolt/screw into approx a 1-1/2" wide stock board it seems. I was thinking that if the top cap sepaerates from the hull that i can look at the wood stock and possibly treat new pieces with rot doctor and replace them while i have it off.
I have a vent on each side and my gut feeling is either that motor mounting screws (4) were not sealed with something like 5200 and instead just plain silicone and the water enetered/rotted the wood there or it could have been the vent on each side when water entered it seeped along the hull side and worked its way in a air void and then into the transom. I also was wondering did you have to replace any of the foam? I was thinking that possibly the foam near the hull side/transom rear has gooten water logged and will add unecessary weight to the boat when replaing the transom. If i need to replace the foam where is a good resource to buy the foam and my fiberglass mat, resin,epoxy? I'm in Virginia near Richmond. i got this boat as a project and knew the motor would need work/rebuilt suzuki 225 EFL 99 model, carpet, gel coat and trailer repaierd and painted. I was concerned that i might end up spending more money than the boat is worth in the end but i got it for $700 and thought i would at least know from the ground up what i repaired/replaced. I was thinking that maybe i should have bought a boat ready for water but i also know that i could pay upwards of 9,000 for a decent ready to run boat and there is no guarantee that in less than two years i would replace a weak transom or end up having to rebuild the motor. sorry for the muttering about that but my wife has never owned a boat and in her defense i can understand her concerns as well.
So back to the boat. I was thinking on how to build a swing/support as you did? got any ideas and once i have it removed from the hull what is a good way to support the top cap until the transom is completed? I do know that after the transom is completed i'm not going to drill any holes into the new replaced transom. Also is there a how to book or video on fiberglass repair?
I want you to know how much i really appreciate this website forum and greatly your knowledge/experience from your own transom replacement. I look forward to your reply.
Thanks, Garland
Modified by Skeet'r89 at 9:09 PM 5/14/2007
Modified by Skeet'r89 at 9:10 PM 5/14/2007
I have other pictures of my transom rebuild but it doesn't show much more detail about what went on. I choose the best ones that displayed the best points. Actually the cost in materials wasn't to bad. Lets say that I repaired the back end of my boat for about the same amount you payed for your boat. As far as time is concerned that is hard to say. Mine took me a whole summer of spare time and a lot depends on how much info you can gather to make things go easier. I didn't know about this wonderful BBC site and the enormous wealth of knowledge that is available. I pretty much figured out most of it by myself and the help of a friend who has fooled with fiberglass a little. The foam in my boat was wet ( all of the whitish/yellowish color in the pictures ). You could push on it with your thumb and water would squeeze out, but it sat out in the sun all summer and was covered very well at the slightest chance of rain and was dry by the time that I got around to sealing it up again. You should be able to buy a two part floatation foam, fiberglass, etc. at a local marine store like West Marine / US Boats. I purchased most of my Epoxy resin from Rot Doctor and also there CPES. That was the most expensive costs in my rebuild. A sheet of marine grade ply was $75.00 ( 3/4"x4'x8') at a local Lumber yard. My transom was 1-1/2" thick so I cut two aprrox. size pieces and epoxied and clamped and then screwed the pieces together to form my transom. Much shaping of the ply was needed. I will be glad to help as much as I can. There is also a product out there called SeaCast. You can research it on the web. It may be something you want to consider. Oh and by the way, mine was one of those $9,000 boats that 1-1/2 after buying I was doing this to.
Oh yea, I forgot the lifting frame. If I had to do it again this is what I would do. Buy (8) 8- 10ft.- 4x4's / (6) 8 or 10ft.- 2x6's and (8) 10ft 2x4's. Sandwich the end of a 4x4 at each end of (2) 2x6's using lag bolts or bolt completely through with allthread or something. Make three of these. Use the 2x4's to X-brace the (3)4x4 uprights together.This would be one side. This should make a lifting frame about 16 feet long. Place the last two 4x4 on top of structure to use as lifting beam. If you don't understand this I could try to make a ruff drawing and post it.
Thanks for your replay and information. I have researched the sea cast product and it will not rot but have read on two post that the downside is if you hit a stump it might shatter instead of giving so i read. The plus side to the sea cast is it will not rot, less downtime for drying and mating like fiberglass and can be shaped with a sander. I think i'm going to go with a wood transom and make sure to coat everything well with rot doctor.
I called the company that i guess is kinda running some remaining parts for Javelin and Stratos. I spoke with a guy there and he told me that on a Javelin here are some steps to follow.
1. Remove the screws to the top cap and hull.
2. Will need to remove the screws that hold the fiberglass on the top cap deck floor with some kind of spreader bar and the hardest part will be seperateing the bondo/glue that was used when sealing the top cap at the transom area to the hull. Seems they have glued this area and he said to lift the top cap about an 1/2" figure where it is still attached and then make more cuts and not stress/crack the top cap when attempting to remove. He gave me a ballpark figure of around $6,000 to replace the transom. This is what i was told and i totally respect the proffesionals that do this in a daily basis. My catch 22 is that i cannot afford to sink $6,000 into a transom, $3,200 for a rebuilt motor and other asethic items. I am not cheap but if i ever want the pleasure of being able to fish on the water this is what i'm dealit with. i'm muttering again, sorry. ...LOL
One thing i did notice that the stock/wood that all the 200 plus screws screw into is not encassed in fiberglass and i feel by removing the top i am going to replace the wood along the top where the top cap screws into while im' at it.
Anyways this is what i was told today but i'm open to your ideas/suggestions and anybody else that might have some. I was wondering if you might have a little bit of time and could drwa that skect up for me and post it if you do not mind. I also would like to see them other pictures if that is ok and you can send them to wean3dogs@verizon.net
I hope you know how much Larry i appreciate your experience from you doing your own transom and look forward to other ideas and suggestions.
Thanks a bunch, Garland
I will try to make up a scetch and send you the rest of the pictures. I would be really suprized if you couldn't repair the transom and any other wood problems for under $1500. Like I said, I only had about $700 in mine.
Hi Larry, I started yesterday removing the rod boxes,console loose from the floor. I feel very confident and able to remove the top and replace the transom. I was looking at the front of the deck underneath. Seems it will not be hard at all to use a air tool with a cutting blade to cut the fiberglass that is holding the top cap to the hul under the front deck. Seems the encased wood is about a half inch from touching the hull. I then am going to work my way on finishing removing the top cap loose where the seats and the rest of the console is attched to the floor. Then work my way back to the transom area. I was wondering how were you able to seperate the fiberglass loose from the wood inside the transom? I think i have approx. a half inch of fiberglass that exposes the wood just above the splashwell. Did you cut the transom/fiberglass to the edge where the transom turns an angle going down towards the splashwell and if so how did you manage to seal/ repair the metalflake fiberglass?
Many thanks,
Jav, sent you an IM and also sent 3 e-mails. Let me know if you recieved them
Larry i have not received any im's or email from you. Can you try summajet.mojo@verizon.net
thanks, Garland
The IM that I sent was here on the BBC boards. Do you have it activated in your profile. I will try to send the other to the new e-mal address.
I have been working on seperating the top cap from the deck floor. I have located some marine grade plywood in my area. the person told me at the lumber mill they can get the marine grade plywood for me by special order or they could take a piece of plywood and pressure treat it twice. I think it would be best to go with the marine grade??
I understand building the frame for lifting the top cap from the hull. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif
I am not certain i fully understand a couple of things. I can see what appears to be a bondo or epoxy glue underside the splashwell inside the transom area and was wondering what technique did you find to seperate the top cap and hull? I was thinking with the motor off use a spreader bar on the top (outside) of the transom and work it under the fiberglass and then go in the battery compartment and use the spreader bar taking my time to break it free under there also. What are your thoughts? Once i have the top cap lifted and the hull/transom exposed is it hard to remove the wood from the transom and the knee braces? I was thinking that once i have the transom area exposed i can use the spreader bar and seperate the knee braces from the side of the lower hull and keep them in intact and make a pattern from the original cut and the same holds true for the transom as well.
Did your wood run the entire lenght across the back of the boat for the transom or was it a few inches past the knee braces? I need to replace the lower deck area near the console and am trying to get an estimate of how many sheets of plywood i will need. I really need help on understanding once i have the transom footprint cut out for the two pieces to be laminated together. Did you place resin or fiberglass mat/resin between both sheets of plywood that are going to form the 1-1/2" thickness that is needed and also did you place resin/mat on the piece that aces against the fiberglass transom? I appreciate any help you can offer.
Thank you,
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. I haven't been on the comp. for a couple of days. Did you receive my e-mails of pictures? Do not let the lumber yard sell you a piece of double treated regular grade plywood. Being pressure treated has nothing to do with being marine grade. Marine grade means it has no voids in the center cores of the plywood. All of the layers have been plugged as they do with the outer surface of regular CDX ply. This makes it stronger because there are no voids. The bondo looking stuff is pretty tuff, I don't think you can spread it and split it. I think it would be best ( IMO ) to cut the top off of the transom and work down from the top. Then when all is finished find someone to make a sheet aluminum cap to cover the area as I did. Ez of removing the old transom wood will depend on how solid it still is. Much of mine was removed with a large screwdriver and a shop vac. The wood for the transom shoud run across the full width of the boat. As for the other sub flooring I would say you can get away with regular plywood as that is what was in mine and is what I replaced it with. I know it was regular because the ink imprent was in the foam underneath the inner deck. My double layer transom board was bonded together with resin only. After placing parts together they were "C" clamped together and then screwed together with 1-1/2" drywall screws. The inside surface of the hull will probably need to be scraped or sanded down to be sure you are clean from all old materials. As you take things apart you will have a better idea and come up with ideas on ways to repair what needs repaired.
I understand the computer thing. I have not received the email at my verizon account. Can you try to send them again? I agree with not using regular plywood. I have located marine grade plywood here in my area for about $85 per a sheet and only takes about three days for them to receive it. On outer side on the back of my transom it has a cuver on both side. I looked at your pictures and assuming that there is foam on the outer edge/curved area and like you mentioned the transom runs the entire width of the boat. I would also like a picture of the aluminum cap that covers the transom where you cut it to remove the top cap. Was it hard to find a company to craft an aluminum cap and was it expensive if i might ask?
I did purchase an air driven cutter tool with an 3" blade and depending on how solid the wood is i am going to use the cutting tool to cut the transom loose from the hull and also the knee braces. I have gotten everything cut loose on the rod boxes and etc with the exception of the transom area. I am going to purchase the resin from rot doctor. I will make my first template for the wooden transom replacement and then once both pieces are cut to fit and then use three coats of rot doctor before assembling them together with the resin. Once i have the resin placed between the two sheets i then will use c-clamps along the edges and then sheet rock screws. Should i use stainless steel screws instead of sheet rock screws to prevent rust or failure? Does it matter what side i place the sheet rock screws into the wooden transom? Once i get all the wood out of the transom i will make sure that the surface on the fiberglass skin is clean and then use resin to adhere the new wooden transom to the fiberglass skin.
I noticed that two of my aerator pumps are screwed into the the two knee braces. I was thinking of using two blocks of wood on each knee brace and glass it in and then i can screw the aerator plate onto the knee brace and this will prevent there being penetration inside the wood or fiberglass of the two knee braces? Am I going overboard with this transom replacement? I just figured it made sense on trying to prevent any screws into the knee braces or transom. I read to use woven fiberglass instead of mat because matting is suppose to be stronger but it has a coarse finish.
How can i send pictures for you to look at? I have a air vent about 10"s from the rear of the boat and I plan on making a fiberglass box of some sort and attach a hose and have it drip into the bilge area. My gut tells me that the transom failed because water was able to seep from the foam on the rear of the transom and the two air vents did not help by allowing more water to enter during a rain storm.
I also was thinking that once i have the transom replaced and installed to take the 6" jackplate and drill my four motor bolting holes into the new transom and apply about 3 coats of rot doctor inside the holes and seal the hole with life caulk or 3-m 5200.
I read on one of the post that a person drilled oversized holes and them used resin/fiberglass to seal the oversized hole. Seems they feel that even if the caulk failed that the water/moisture would have a harder time reaching the wood.
I plan on taking pictures of the entire process to post on here once it is complelted. I read a post on restoration of the gel coat. The boat is weathered bad and i bought a 6" polisher/sander from harbor freight and used 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and it worked great and then i used the polisher with meguiars wax. It looks great. It is amazing the wealth of information/knowledge that you and other fellow bass boat forum groups has to share and offer. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif
I will look for the pictures and also of the aluminum cap. I really appreciate your help and reading this very very long post.
I have tried to send some pics to both accounts but they have failed. It could be my comp. Yes there was foam in the "humps" at the back of the transom and yes I think that had some to do with mine. I made the alum. cap for my transom at the place I used to work. We had a small sheet metal break there. It is a good idea to use the Rot Doctor or other epoxy to treat the motor mount holes. The extra wood on the knee braces sounds ok, I would still use some 3M on any screw holes. Always use the 5200 on the motor bolts. I think I used regular drywall screws to join the two layers for the transom. I think that I actually put on three layers of glass on my transom. Two chopped mat and one woven for the finish. I know it had at least one of each. I will try to resend some of the pictures. You can mail me at larry_fitzgerald@hotmail.com
Once you have the wooden transom cut and fitted and resin both pieces of the transom boards together do you use screw the transom to the knee braces or do you fit the transom in after resin/glassed and use mat/woven fiberglass to reinforce the contact point between the transom and the two knee braces?
Thank you, G.
You should be able to determine how yours was once you start removing the old transom. The knee braces on mine were each attached with (2)-3" wood stain. steel wood screws. So when installing I prefit everything in boat and marked where the knee brace attached, then removed and attached knee brace whith screws. Then evrything gets glassed at one time.
I took the motor off today and i checked the transom. I can see where the hackplate has dug into the fiberglass and it is dripping some water. On my transom i only have about a 1-4" to 1-2" of space between the top of the splashwell and where the transom meet. I took the rope/rub rail off today and i then took the prybar/crowbar and placed it under the top of the splashwell/transom area and worked it along the entire back of that area and believe it or not I was able to life the splashwell loose from the transom. I got it up about 3-4" from the transom. I still have to build my supports to lift the top cap from the hull. I was concerned that i would be caught spending a considerable amount of time trying to seperate the splashwell loose from the transom. Larry, I could see that the bondo or epoxy that was used when the boat was built was soft and brittle. With the prybar under the splashwell I could see where the wood has considerable rot and water soaked. I am very lucky to have gotten the top seperated form the hull like i did. I am going to build my lift in a week and begin to lift the top cap. I am glad i wont have to cut the fiberglass on the top of the splashwell. I also am going to make sure to fiberglass the transom at the top so no worries about waer seeping on the top at the transom.
I think several things contributed to the bad transom. First, the cracked fiberglass where the jackplate mounted to the exterior transom. Second there was no kind of rtv/silicone sealant under the aluminum transom cover, not to mention where the screws held the top aluminum on top of the splashwell it was soft in the screw holes. Third, the bolts securing the jackplate to the transom did not have any sealant either. I think im going to have a new aluminum trip cap fabricated and seal the screw holes and use an epoxy or 5200 sealant to secure the aluminum cover to the top of the splashwell. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif
I read that you fitted everything and then glassed it all in place inside the boat. Did you use any fiberglassunderside where the wood sits on top of the flotation foam? I think that the foam underneath is saturated with water because i noticed water seepeing from the screw holes where the batterty trays were placed. I appreciate your help and tips you have been giving me.
Is there a good fiberglass book i can purchase that would help me along the way when i glass everything in the boat?
Thank you, http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/smile.gif
Glad things seem to be going well, or at least as well as one can expect for having to tear there boat in half! If the floatation foam is wet then you may have to dig it all out. IT MUST be DRY !!! My boat did dry out but it sat exposed to the sun all summer and was covered any time there was a threat of rain. I did not put any fiberglass or resin on the bottom of any other inner deck surfaces but did coat them all with RotDoctor. I do not know of any books but I am sure there is something out there. I was lucky to have a friend who had played with fiberglass some to get me started. One thing I will suggest, is to round any edges of wood that are going to be covered. Fiberglass will not lay on a square edge. I am having problems with my computer and it will not allow me to send the pictures, I will keep trying. Good Luck!
I am making a support for the motor today and then going to start on building the lift support. How long has it been since you rebuilt your transom and how well is it holding up? I am going to round all the edges and use rot doctor.
Thanks, G.
I rebuilt my transom during the summer of 2003. I put it in the water for the new maiden voyage on Nov. 8 of that year. I als put a 6" manual jackplate on it later. I cant remember if it was the spring of 04 or 05. So this will be the 4th summer since it has been repaired. Everything still seems to be doing fine.