Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Robert Humphrey)
Well I had hoped for the best, but it turns out for the worse.
The stringers on the sides are rotted as well as one of the boards that lays flat against the center stringer.
To top it off I managed to cut a 1/8" x 2" hole through the hull as I was cutting the decking out underneath of the console. At least it will be accessible to repair it.
I imagine the shape the stringers are in that the transom wood is shot as well.
Im debating on taking the top off of the boat and replacing all the wood. Is pulling the top off that hard to do? Looks like pulling the rubrail and taking out all the screws after taking the motor and everything else off then just lifting the top. Would make it alot easier to get to things to fix them as well as doing the wiring. I will have to build a couple of A-frames out of 4x4 to support the top. Would one at the front and back be suffecient or do I need one in the middle as well? I took pics of the damage, but my hands are so steady not a single one was in focus.
Ill be figuring out tonite the cost of all the resin, cloth, wiring and wood to see if I am gonna move forward or cut my loss...
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Robert Humphrey)
Looks a lot like my boat, when you get to the transom you will need to use a hack saw on the side there was a ton of extra resin holding down the cap. also dont forget to look under the seat for extra matting holding down the cap.The picture a the top will let you see what you up against. I can help let me know. Instead of building A frame I used some 2 x12 screwed under my deck with a couple of coffin hoist. Good Luck and take pics. I have a wiring diagram for 84 procraft mcgaff1
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (mcgaff1)
U.S. Composites is a good source for the epoxy resin. Use epoxy resin, instead of fiberglass resin. It is a little more expensive, but has much better wood bonding abilities. The boat will take some time and money, but you will know what you have once you are done with it. You can also customize parts of the boat to your liking as you redo it.
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (mcgaff1)
If you could send a copy of the wiring diagram to my email I would appreciate it. It will be a few weeks before I will be to that point, but the diagram will help a bunch.
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Robert Humphrey)
Robert welcome to the site.........Looks like you have a nice base boat to start with.
The boats appearence is good.....take the deck off of it.it will go much faster and makes it so much easier to work with...just watch so you get the floor and stringer height back to the original so the cap sets back on good.......ask plenty of questions.............
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Rollo331)
You've got your work cut out for you bud! Good luck........
I have an 83 Procraft 1540V..........
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Robert Humphrey)
Looks like I am going to finally have time to start the rebuild on my boat. I will be pulling the motor off this weekend as well as removing everything from the top deck. Since I will be pulling the cap off so I can redo all the stringers, transom and replacing the foam, I want to go ahead and repaint the hull white since I will be patching the hole I cut in it while pulling the floor out. I am worried about taking the hull off of the trailer and flipping it over. What things do I need to watch for when doing this? Is the hull going to what to balloon out on the sides once its off of the trailer and how do I avoid this?
I want to also redo the deck lids while im at it. The raised lids are a pain and mine have seen better days. Im not for sure how to redo the flat surface. Should I cut the raised lip off of the current deck then glass in a layer of 1/2" ply over the whole surface and cut new holes for the new liners and lids or should I build up the current deck so that its even with the top of the raised lip?
Ill have more questions I imagine and will be posting pics of the progress.
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Robert Humphrey)
i read the your post and it is not impossible to make the repairs. You can flip the hull. First thing i would do it cut out the floor in the area where you will be repairing the hull. Do not cut any other flooring out or anything. It will give oyu added strength on the hull and sides. I would place some 2x4's about every 4 feet. Place the end of the 2x4 at the place where the screws, screw into the hull side. Then I would build a frame and screw a board into the holes for the engine mounting on the transom. Then rig the eyebolt to rotate. This will allow you to use the lifting frame to lift the boat. I would use chain blocks if you have access to two. It will make it easier when lifting the frame up and down if you do not have anyone there helping you.
With one chain block on the board on the transom place the other chain block in the boat eyebolt. Then slowly lift the boat evenly as muchas possible and once you have good clearance between the hull and trailer, remove the trailer and place the hull on saw horses. Look at this link and it will give the best solution to the hole in your hull.
Once you repair the hull and are ready to refinish the hull. Look at a product called Top coat. It is a good product and it easy to apply. Once you have repaired the hull and are ready to begin the rebuilding the inside of the hull use a product called marinepoxy. I am using that product and it makes a nice clean bond and is just as comparable as System 3 products.
Before you attempt to seperate the top cap make sure that you have checked inside the top deck throughly to make sure there are no places that are still attached to the top deck/floor. You can use a spreader bar to seperate the two better. Places to look for that might be fiberglassed, rod boxes, console, along floor top lower deck, and bilge compartment areas. Take plenty of notes and use a camera for pictures to back up something that might have gotten left off from disassembly. You can lookat my post and see if that helps.
I'm assuming that the wood in the stringers and transom is wet and possibly rotten. Plan on taking lots of time alone for sanding down the hull to get it to a prepped state. Also marinepoxy will bond nicely to polyester. Once you pull the top cap off you will probably notice some delamination of the glass on the stringers and hull. You can use Ext. plywood for the floor and cross supports. I would use marine grade plywood for the transom and knee braces. I saw the wiring and if your planning on repairing it now is a good time to move it outside of the bilge compartment and locate it at the drivers console-fuse panel. I had a neighbor who lived next door in 1986 and he went salt water fishing and had a short in the blower located in the bilge compartment and it stopped working and had built up gas fumes and when he started the boat the compartment became fully engulfed in flames and they were 10 miles in the chesapeake bay and he did not make it. Not trying to scare you or anything but freaky things do happen.
I'm getting my foam from Us Composites. You can get the marinepoxy, hardener, wood flour, and fiberglass cloth from this link.
http://www.bateau2.com/
It also has addtional tips and post on repairs.
Figure it will take about 1oz of epoxy and hardener to wet out 1 linear foot of fiberglass. When your ready to start fiberglassing the boat make sure to do it wet on wet. Meaning to precut/prefit the cloth for that area and then use a chip brush to apply the epoxy on the firts piece and once that is wet place the other cloth on top and wet that down also. It makes it much stronger and also makes a good chemical bond that way.
There is a wealth of information and tips/techniques that are on this site to help make the necessary repairs.
Post some pictures as you make progress.
You can do it! http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (javelin90)
Thanks for the info javelin90. I have already cut all the floor out prior to posting yesterday, so I will have to hope the 2x4's screwed across the boat will be enough to hold the shape when I go to flip it.
I checked out the Top Coat paint. Ive been doing a lot of reading on the forum and other places and was looking at using gelcoat and duratec so that I can spray it. Ive shot plenty of pre-cat lacquer so I have the spray equipment already and the gelcoat looks a cheaper route to go. Any ideas on which one would be more durable?
Anyone have any input on redoing the decks with a layer of ply so I can put in new lids and liners?
Re: 1982 Procraft 1560 (Robert Humphrey)
If your floors are cored construction(there is a smooth fiberglass appearance above it, and then a wood core, then another fiberglass layer below it) the best way to do the repair is to carefully cut the wood out by cutting the top layer of glass without cutting through the bottom layer of glass. Once you find the edges of the wood you just cut around the edge using a cutoff wheel, and once you are all the way around remove the glass that was the floor and dig out the wood. You will be left with what looks like a giant 1" or so deep casserole dish made of fiberglass. From there you just lay in a new peice of marine grade fir that is cut to fit, and reglass it using epoxy and 2 or 3 layers of 1708 biax cloth....
Although the price is tempting do NOT use polyester resins. And be sure to check out the link above that Garland posted to bataeu... And go to their forums as well. This type of thing is a daily occurance over there, and the guys who run the bataeu store are always on their forum to let you know what you need.
