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I'm about 95% sure that my rectifier went bad....the tach quit working and my cranking battery was dead when i went to fire it up this morning....does anyone know of a reputible repairman in eastern, nc??? If not how hard would it be to change?? 1990 Rude 175xp....
Cant help on a mechanic, but it is a fairly easy replacement. I have a 91 johnson 225. just removed the bolts hoding hte powerpack on, folded it out of the way and I think it was 4 bolts and the regulator/rectifier was out. put the new one with a new seal in, hooked up its wires and then rebolted everything back. muffed it up and it worked perfectly. they are pretty pricey so I actually took a chance and bought a used one from a local shop here. it was slightly different, but pattern and output were the same, just a little different hookup. basically just different terminal connectors on mine.
all in all it was easy and I never unhooked the powerpack wires at all. I did find out they are water cooled and will melt down when the ignition is on and the motor is not running for an extended period of time.
well i was doing some research and found out that its underneath the flywheel....if your looking at the front of the motor its at the 12 o'clock position...should i use a flywheel puller like on a vehcile?? All others feel free to chime in on this problem...thanks again...
Yes, the 60 * engines require the flywheel to come off.
its not a 60* motor...model #e175stlese ser#r08290863....anybody got suggestions to where to buy the part at??
Correct it is a 90* motor and the flywheel does have to come off. http://WWW.Shop.evinrude.com would be a good place to purchase one or your local BRP dealer can get you one also.
thanks for the help all....will be doing sometime this week!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the 60 * engines require the flywheel to come off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 60* do not require the flywheel to come off. It is on top of the motor just ahead of the power pack under the plastic cover.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k2rider18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help all....will be doing sometime this week!!!
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You'll need 3 5/16" 24 pitch (fine thread bolts) about 3.5-4" long a harmonic balancer puller and some large washers. Pop the big nut off the crank, spray some PB blaster on top of the Flywheel where it meets the crank and let it sit. Probably been on there for a while so it may fight you.
noted....thanks again...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The 60* do not require the flywheel to come off. It is on top of the motor just ahead of the power pack under the plastic cover. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya got me, forgot about that one, dang even forgot to look at the model #!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif SMACK!!! OUCH!!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ya got me, forgot about that one, dang even forgot to look at the model #!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif SMACK!!! OUCH!!!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>
Mike, you have been donkey punched! Easy on the veterans, Fred! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/Laugh.gif