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I have a 1992 Johnson 200 HP V6 Model # J200STLENS Serial No # G 03021021
I installed a water pressure gauge when doing a semi restoration on my Console/Instrument Panel.
However I do not know what reading I should be getting on the gauge. Good pressure, low pressure , and what should it read at certain RPM'S if the pump is working right? Thanks for the help :)
Modified by 77TEXAN77 at 12:50 PM 3/4/2010
im running at idle at around 12psi and at wot im pushing 30psi
as long as you produce 20+ psi at wot you will be fine. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif
What is wot?
And it seems to be running at 20+ between 2000 and 5000 rpm's. I should have written it down as I accelerated through the different RPM levels. :( Oh well, next time I'm out I'll take better notes.
I have been wondering about the possible slug of air in the hose. I hooked it up to the gauge and then at the engine. Couldn't really get it tested in the drive way. But on the lake it worked.
But I couldn't help but wonder if there were a slug of air trapped at the gauge if that would affect the accuracy of the reading??? If so how could I get that slug of air out if it were necessary to get it out? :)
wot - wide open throttle
No less than 18 lbs water pressure. The water in the line compresses the air and gives you the correct reading.
92 has the power boost cooling and is low pressure high volume it will differ from the later models or so i was told on this board i ran mine at 12 psi for 4 years
even with a new pump it would not get 20 psi with the engine down low
"With the engine down low" Do you mean at low RPM'S??
77TEXAN77,
My 1990 200 HP XP had the following water pressues, by my gauge, after a new water pump was installed. At idle, 600 RPM, in the water and in gear = 6.5 PSIG. The max I saw was 15 PSIG at start-up, out-of-gear, at 1200 RPM. At 2400 RPM = 12 PSIG. At 3000 RPM = 13 PSIG. I did not record pressures at any higher RPM. Remember, at about 2,000 RPM or higher (Mine is about 3,000 rpm), the 3-way valve dumps the water pressure off the t-stat diagrams and the t-stats move off their seats for more water flow for "Power boost cooling". The water pressure drops (less back pressure) when this occurs.
Texas Hawkeye
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 77TEXAN77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"With the engine down low" Do you mean at low RPM'S??</TD></TR></TABLE>
He means with the engine lower on the transom, to better pick up water.
Cool. That's what I'll have to do is monitor it at different RPM'S. I see that you mentioned "less back pressure" What does that mean? Is that a proper event that takes place within normal operations? It doesn't sound like a good thing but I don't want to be presumptuous.
"Less back pressure" is normal for the design of this cooling system. The water control valve (a 3-way valve) is attached to the throttle linkage. From idle to about 2,000 RPM or a little above, water pressure is directed by the 3-way valve to the thermostat diaphragms and holds the thermostats on their seat. The t-stats operate as usual during this phase. As you open the throttle, at about 2,000 RPM, the linkage operates the 3-way control valve and it closes the water supply to the valve -- and dumps the water pressure from the thermostat diaphragms (This dump goes out the "tell-tell" line with other water). The t-stats then completely move off their seats and allows maximum water flow for the "power boost cooling" -- which is a good thing at high speed. When the t-stats move off their seats (that gives you less back pressure), you will see a few pounds drop in water pressure.
But note, this is the description for my 1990 200 HP XP. I am not sure the cooling system is the same for you 1992 model.
Excellent description and saved me a bunch of typing. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/bows.gif <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TexasHawkeye »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Less back pressure" is normal for the design of this cooling system. The water control valve (a 3-way valve) is attached to the throttle linkage. From idle to about 2,000 RPM or a little above, water pressure is directed by the 3-way valve to the thermostat diaphragms and holds the thermostats on their seat. The t-stats operate as usual during this phase. As you open the throttle, at about 2,000 RPM, the linkage operates the 3-way control valve and it closes the water supply to the valve -- and dumps the water pressure from the thermostat diaphragms (This dump goes out the "tell-tell" line with other water). The t-stats then completely move off their seats and allows maximum water flow for the "power boost cooling" -- which is a good thing at high speed. When the t-stats move off their seats (that gives you less back pressure), you will see a few pounds drop in water pressure.
But note, this is the description for my 1990 200 HP XP. I am not sure the cooling system is the same for you 1992 model. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Um cool ... Are water temp gauges used on Bass Boats? Or engine temp gauges?
If any of this water cooling system that your describing failed internally how would you know? After all if the water pump were still pumping you would I think, still see water pissing out the pee hole but it seems to me that if the water control valve, T stats, T diagrams failed then how would you know and be alerted before internal damage occured?
There is an over temp alarm.
It would be nice to monitor that temp before the heat sets off that alarm you mentioned. There may be a way I just gotta figure out how to get r done :)
The only way you could put a temp sensor on would be to install a surface contact sensor. You would remove one head bolt on each side of the motor, install the sender and bracket and bolt. The sender has to make contact with the cylinder heads. You would then run both wires to an A/B switch on the dash and then to the gauge. They aren't very accurate but that is about as good as it it going to get for that vintage of motor.
77TEXAN77
This is what I did on my 1990 200 HP XP, Model # E200STLESE. I purchased two BRP Temperature Assemblies, P/N 0175410. Each assembly includes a gauge, wiring, and a sender. On my motor, there is an unused screwed boss in the top cylinder heads on the starboard side and the port side. These bosses are on the port side of each head opposite the alarm senders. I screwed the senders into these bosses, ran separate wires to a three way switch mounted near the dash and mounted one gauge in the dash -- I only have room for one gauge. I can read the temperature at the port side or the starboard side. You can see the temperatures drop when the "dump" occurs on the T-stat diaphragms -- as described above..
TexasHawkeye
Dude is there any chance you would be willing to take a pic of your motor where you put those senders :) and put them on here for me to see? Either way thanks for the info !!!
I don't have a way of attaching pictures. I will try to describe it for my motor. If you were standing behind the motor, and looking at the top cylinder head (either port or starboard) and looking at the T-stat cover at the top. The boss (threaded hole) on the right side of the T-stat cover has the high temperature alarm sender with a tan wire that sounds the alarm and also actives the SLOW feature. In addition to the tan wire, the port side sender also includes a white/black stripe wire that operates the Quickstart feature. There is a boss on the left side of the t-stat cover that is not used (On both starboard and port side cylinder heads). These are the bosses that I used for the extra temperature senders. I am not sure if your 1992 model has the same unused bosses. Hope this helps.
TexasHawkeye
I'll check Thanks again http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif