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I'm trying to build the LIGHTEST flipping stick possible and i'm still new to rod building ( built some cheap ones). They are all for my own use. 7'6" for punching mats. Perferably with a fast action. And it has to be one piece not telescopic. I've seen the rainshadows but was looking to go even lighter in blank weight if possible. Any Ideas Not really worried about how much
Thanks
Assuming you are talking about 3/4 or larger weights, I use a Rogue BB 807 and cut the butt to the length desired. With a split grip, no fore grip, two piece reelseat and a good set of micro guides, a 7'6" finished rod should weigh about 4.5 ounces.
I have a 7'6" G Loomis custom built on a FS 904 blank (IMX, I believe) that is very light for a rod its length. It has plenty of grunt to pull them out of the thick stuff!
Batson IFS904. Would be my recommendation. Whatever you do, DO NOT get a GLX or RX8+ blank for flipping/punching. You need the durability of a mid level blank.
I appreciate all the info and shockwave thats about what i'm shooting for as far as set-up and was planning on doing a split grip no fore grip. And i was wondering if anyone uses that mooseskin foam yet and how it was on weight. And as far as micros what is you guys opinion on the recoil guides. I'll check into the blanks. And thanks guys.
This forum is what made me start building in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassn81 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Batson IFS904. . </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have that blank that I build a rod on and it is sweet
You will be badly disappointed with the recoils when using braid because the wind knots will drive you crazy. You will get very few wind knots with the micros and they make for a lighter rod.
Lots of those being built with weighted butts. They are not the lightest when done that way-but some people willing to compromise for the sake of balance. You have the option of temporarily adding weight before installing butt grip or using one of the balancing kits available. Set it up with weight, take it in the yard and flip with it for an hour. Do the same without weight. Easier than deciding later that you wanted it the other way. Balancing kit will give you the option of using it either way. I totally agree with Shockwave's suggestion of using micro guides.
Chris
The lightest flipping stick, I've built to date is a 5C70HF extended to 7'6" spiral wrapped using two No. 8 flys and the rest No. 6 flex-lites; skeleton seat and split grip. I'm not sure if I would use it to punch through mats though.
The best mat rod I've built (not the lightest by far) is a ATC V 705 extended to 8-foot using aircraft alum for the extension. It balanced out really well and has enough umph to rip a snapping turtle out of it's shell on a hookset.
The best all around in my opinion is Rogue BB796. It's light, very durable and work very well from pitching 3/8ths jigs, to punching to cranking DD 22s. You can't go wrong with that blank.
Ok So i don't want recoils than. So could you guys explain to this newbie what a micro guide is. I thought a micro guide was any guide that is size 3 or smaller. And if so what brand of guides do you suggest. After looking at the blanks and seeing different people recommend the batson 904 im really leaning this way. But anyways thats for all the help you guys are giving me. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/doh.gif
micros are typically size 2-5. I think 3s are probably the most popular. Fuji and Batson both make them as well some others.
After doing alot of research and help from you guys I have decided to go with a rogue bb796 and cut it to 7"6" and go with fugi lsg micros size 3.5 for guides. But i was wondering if you guys only use them from running guides and start out with bigger guides or use them for the whole rod. And finally when using micros do you change your guide spacing. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/embarassed.gif
Football player
It depends wheather you are going to build conventionlly "on top" or spiral. I always build conventionally and use only Fuji 3.5's. I can find no difference in this vs using transition guides. You will be pleased with the outcome.
And yes, there will be differences in spacing. You should finish up with 9 guides and a tip on your particular blank.
The next issue you will have will be the tip because the smallest Fuji tip size is 4.5 but the tube sizes are way too small to fit most blanks.
Contact me when you get to this point and I will be happy to work you thru this problem and you will finish up with an excellent braced tip.
Yeah i am going on the top. I had a fishing edge flipping stick that was sprial and hated it. But I'm goign to order everythign today. Thanks for the help http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
you'll end up with more than one bb796 after you build your first.
Does anyone know whats wrong with the Batson website?
Works fine for me, here's the link I'm using. http://www.batsonenterprises.com/
Shockwave explain what tip top you would use on this rod and how you did it.
Shockwave, please explain what a "wind knot" is. I've had Recoils on the two rods I use the most (1 jig rod, and 1 crankin rod - both G Loomis) for a year and I haven't had any knot problems at all. I am a huge fan of Recoils, not only becuase they are extremely light, but also because I fish tournaments and can't always be as careful with my rods as I'd like to be. They're extremely durable. Having said that, I had and interesting conversation with Bassn81 about the hardness of the Recoils. I use exclusively braided line on my jig rod, so I guess I will be a test subject on this. I haven't seen any grooving yet. I may not use them on my next jig rod, but I definitely will on crankin rods. Just as with any product, you will find some who like them and some who don't. I wouldn't base my buying decision on the opinion of one person. Do some research and make a decision based on that.
JTD/Timberwolf
Sorry to be so long in responding to your questions.
I'm at the ICRBE in High Point and have been very busy demonstrating the "Electric Decals". I'll be back home on Tuesday of next week and will have time to answer your questions properly then.
I use a Fuji BFAT4.5/3.9 and split the tube (I can talk you thru this)
A wind knot is the tangle of braid you get around guides/tip when you get slack in your line.