what do I need to do
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what do I need to do
Greetings...
Removal of the foregrip is relatively easy. I use a pair of pliers to pinch the cork and twist. Depending on the amount of glue applied, it can be easy to remove...or a bugger. I use a heat gun and a razor to remove any excess glue residue. It is the sprucing it up afterwards that can be a bit of a challange.
Once I remove the foregrip, I use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut off the extra threads from the reel seat. If your fingers are resting on the threads, they will be come extremely sore after a couple of days fishing.
You determine the spot to cut by locking a reel into position and making a mark on the reel seat, just in front of the locking nut. I prefer to make the mark in the goove, on the bottom of the reel seat. I then wrap a piece of masking tape around the reel seat as a cutting guide. The threads spiral around, so you'll have to cut across one of the threads.
When cutting the reel seat threads, be careful and go slow. The Dremel has a variable speed that will help you in this step. There will "typically" be a spacer between the reel seat an the blank...but not always. Try to cut throught the body of the reel seat, just to expose the shim stock beneath.
Once you have done that and the extra threads have been released from the reel seat, you will need to cut on each side so you can remove this piece. I then use the heat gun / razor to clean up around the front of the reel seat.
Wrap some electrical tape (slick) in front of the reel seat. Then, use a fine file to smooth the front edge and also remove any burrs, then that portion is done. You can go fishing or do one more step which would be applying an epoxy finish to the newly exposed blank.
You can go to my website and see some of my "How to..." articles and that should give you some idea of the process, as well.
Hope this helps........George
thanks I will post pics after while
George's tutorial works. These are my first two that I have done. Only tip I have is if you have a heat gun, then the removal of the factory glue is a whole lot easier. Be careful and do not let it sit in one spot but constantly move it. Then attack it with the razor blade. Finish off with some denatured alcohol like George says and it should look great.
These are done on Falcon Cara's, sorry the pics are not that good.
http://www.biggreenfish.com/images/rods1.jpg
http://www.biggreenfish.com/images/rods2.jpg
BGF
Oh I forgot to mention that I have fished with these two a whole lot the last two months. I fished 3 days in the rain (about 9 hours each day) and have let them sit in mid 90's heat numerous days. Held up better than the factory wraps that turned pale white in the moisture.
Matt...
Great job on those rods! Sure makes a rod fish better, doesn't it?
Good luck....George
No comparison George. I never knew what I was missing! They seem lighter, more sensitive and less bulky. I got a whole lot more of my rods awaiting their wraps and I cannot wait to get my spinning rods finished. I am wrapping a spinning rod in pink and purple right now for the girlfriend.
Thanks for the help.
BGF
looks great
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigGreenFish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.biggreenfish.com/images/rods2.jpg
BGF
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BGF, how did you finish off the rod after removing the forgrip? Did you remove the guides and put on a winding check (sorry if thats the wrong term) or somehting? Looks nice and tapered where the threads used to be? And the thread work was added as well wasnt it?? Looks good too!! http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif
I first attached the reels that I am going to use (easy because they are all the same size as the CH50 and CU100's) then I used a dremel and a coping saw to remove excess threads on the reel seat. I then taped the rod and smoothed the edges with a file.
Then I made as straight of a cut where the original cork met the blank. There is a rubber winding check there. If you are careful you can use it and push it back to the reel seat. I unfortunately screwed up and cut them off =]
I rewrapped the exposed blank with size D rod thread (thicker the better) and added a few accents to match the existing rod (except the green metallic and the gold/black stuff). On the top one I wrapped two layers near the reel seat about 1/8-3/16ths of an inch with a smaller thread, but I think the bottom one is easier and looks better.
On both rods I finished with Flex Coat and used a technique called "ramping" to make the transition to the reel seat. I just kind of globbed it on there and slowly built the taper with the paintbrush. I baby-sitted it until it started to take its own shape. If you build it then walk away it may smooth itself back down the rod so give it 15-20 minutes of attention. Both rods have 2 coats. Use the manufacturer's drying time or you may make some bubbles.
Oh, the bottom rod had about a 1/8th inch space between the wrapping thread and the plastic of the reel seat. The epoxy will fill the void nicely if you take your time.
Great way to rejuvinate some rods. Saved me a ton of money in the long run.
those things look great
W. Daddy-All good suggestions from those guys-We are assuming foregrip is cork-like George said-pliers will do most of the work-If you have to remove a foam grip-you can use a heavy piece of braided line to cut foam off-lay braid against blank where foam starts and "saw" it back and forth moving toward reel seat. Use caution with the dremel not to damage blank. Some exposed blank seats have little or no spacer(arbor) between the seat and blank. You can cut through far enough to get a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot you've cut-twist screwdriver and seat will break away from blank fairly easily.
thanks guys just finished my second one
Thanks for the extra info Matt!! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/boardstuff2/beers.gif